Studio Scale TIE Fighter

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

The koolshade is right at .060 just put a mic on it.

Yep there is a difference between the styrene and ABS "H" beam. I didn't know this... SO the abs has a .200" gap and the syrene has a .220" gap. .80" material or .140" me thinks .80" woops!

The Plastruct ABS H-Beam, if 1/4" is the correct size, has a 0.13" gap (0.25 - 2[0.060]), because the thickness of the wall is 0.060. If the Koolshade is indeed 0.060" thick, then this leaves only 0.010" in between them.

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

I'm sure *some* of you already know, but I just wanted to put it out there that the Bandai 1:48 PzKpfw IV Ausf D is a donor kit (standard TIE Fighter, not the Interceptor).

 

[star-art]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

The Plastruct ABS H-Beam, if 1/4" is the correct size, has a 0.13" gap (0.25 - 2[0.060]), because the thickness of the wall is 0.060. If the Koolshade is indeed 0.060" thick, then this leaves only 0.010" in between them.

Therein lies the problem. I do believe the correct H-beam is H-8 ABS, 1/4 in total width, 060 wall thickness. That leaves room for two layers of KoolShade and a very thin layer of paper in the gap. If you have 1/8 inch of KS + 1/8 inch of wing core material, it sounds like you're using a much larger H beam than the one on the original. :eek

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Therein lies the problem. I do believe the correct H-beam is H-8 ABS, 1/4 in total width, 060 wall thickness. That leaves room for two layers of KoolShade and a very thin layer of paper in the gap. If you have 1/8 inch of KS + 1/8 inch of wing core material, it sounds like you're using a much larger H beam than the one on the original. :eek

The H-Beam I got is 1/4" ABS Plastruct. I haven't done anything with the solar panels yet. But, I have done a little with the sphere:

I'll do more tomorrow. I've been up too long...

 

[star-art]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Is that PVC pipe? You might want to use aluminum tube or pipe instead. That was what was on the original, and it's almost guaranteed not to bend over time.

Aluminum is really easy to cut if you have a good chop saw. Just get a special carbide tipped blade for cutting aluminum. It cuts through it like butter.

 

[DARKSIDE72]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

The Plastruct ABS H-Beam, if 1/4" is the correct size, has a 0.13" gap (0.25 - 2[0.060]), because the thickness of the wall is 0.060. If the Koolshade is indeed 0.060" thick, then this leaves only 0.010" in between them.

Sorry, Steve says it's 5/16. Not 1/4.

 

[DARKSIDE72]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

So is it 1/4 or 5/16? :confused :confused

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Is that PVC pipe? You might want to use aluminum tube or pipe instead. That was what was on the original, and it's almost guaranteed not to bend over time.

Aluminum is really easy to cut if you have a good chop saw. Just get a special carbide tipped blade for cutting aluminum. It cuts through it like butter.

It's Butyrate from Plastruct. Hrm... now I need to track down some 1 1/4" Aluminum Pipe. I guess the butyrate can act as a place holder. I just hope it's EXACTLY the same diameter, because if it is slightly smaller, I have to get new hemispheres...

Sorry, Steve says it's 5/16. Not 1/4.

So is it 1/4 or 5/16? :confused :confused

Well, Gene said he measured it at 1/4"... I hope this is right because I really don't want to wait a whole week longer for Plastruct to ship... :unsure

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Thought I'd be "smart" and use a power saw. Needless to say, I zarked up one of my hemispheres. :unsure From now on I will use a razor saw/dremel - the results were 1000 times better. I guess I can cast this one...

 

[star-art]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Jamie, the original miniature was 1/4 inch, not 5/16. Like Flintlock said, it was recently measured at the Profiles auction by GkVFX.

Hope that helps!

 

[star-art]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

It's Butyrate from Plastruct.

Plastruct's large butyrate tubing stinks -- literally! I bought some almost 2 years ago for a project and had to put it out in the garage because of the strong odor. (It doesn't glue very well, either.) It still smells even today. Weird. . .

Yeah, plastic for structural support isn't often a good idea with large and/or heavy models. That's because plastic bends and warps and it gets brittle over time. A proper metal armature is the way to go.

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

I'm sure *some* of you already know, but I just wanted to put it out there that the Bandai 1:48 PzKpfw IV Ausf D is a donor kit (standard TIE Fighter, not the Interceptor).

The Airfix 1:600 HMS Belfast, too...

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Plastruct's large butyrate tubing stinks -- literally! I bought some almost 2 years ago for a project and had to put it out in the garage because of the strong odor. (It doesn't glue very well, either.) It still smells even today. Weird. . .

Yeah, plastic for structural support isn't often a good idea with large and/or heavy models. That's because plastic bends and warps and it gets brittle over time. A proper metal armature is the way to go.

Yeah, it does smell strange, doesn't it? I found some aluminum pipe of the right diameter. I will order some if I have enough $ left. This pipe is available with a wall thickness up to 1/4"! That won't warp! :lol I think I'll go with the 1/8" wall thickness, though...

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

WTF is up with the grooves on the cockpit window ring? I'm not doing so hot with a scriber... I am doing OK with a file. But it seems like scribed lines are too thin, and the file is too wide... How in the world did they do it?

 

[EchoLeader]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Rolando, Please read the post again.. it says "John" is working on the new patterns...not me... Im filling back orders and other commitments. Nice guess on the Vader TIE but thats only the 1/2 of it. We have timed it to be done about the same time I'm finished with all prior commitments.

All great Steve and re-read what you wrote and have to ask which is it? In the same breath you say that "John" is the pattern maker and not yourself, then you refer to "We have timed it to be done about the same time I'm finished with all prior commitments."

Besides, If I wanted to take new orders I sure dont have to wait on a new project to come out... Im turning down requests for new orders every day... that is till I get caught up. Its tuff but the right thing to do.

I'm very happy that you're committed to fulfilling all your back orders before taking on more work as your customers will be very happy that they'll finally receive what they've paid for and I'll be very happy also that we can put closure to our business dealings when I receive what is owed to me.

Dont mind you keeping it real... for the most part, Ive always valued your guidance. Lets just keep the TIE thread on track, I cant wait to see what they are building.

Glad you value mine and others guidance and I also agree on keeping this TIE thread on track and not clutter it with other future projects.

I'm doing what I said I would, getting things caught up before any new kits are done. Like I said before I'm working on Standard TIE's now, then Interceptors and then AT-ST's.

So very glad you're getting caught up with those subjects. I guess I can look forward to my standard TIE's and Interceptors soon then?

As far as new orders... when it comes time.. let me STRESS the when...I will never take $$ again before a model is ready to ship. Never no way. Having no backlog will be refreshing.. Ive talked with other model makers and they agree being behind the power curve sucks! Ive had a lot of folks wanting to help on the buisness side of things so i can focus on model making and new project development. I'll worry about that stuff when we get there. Were not there yet.

Steve

Steve, I really hope you stick to this business model this time around as your previous commitment to it was an abysmal failure as we can see by your backlog.

Now back to the TIE thread.

 

[imaginager]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

WTF is up with the grooves on the cockpit window ring? I'm not doing so hot with a scriber... I am doing OK with a file. But it seems like scribed lines are too thin, and the file is too wide... How in the world did they do it?

BTW, the cockpit canopy is actually supposed to be vacuformed. It's dome shaped, not angular. The frame is quite thin, too. Flintlock, try getting a sculpting tool for the scribing, you can achieve wider lines depending on the tool. You can also angle your tool to one side or the other as you make your scribes to achieve a wider scribe.

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

BTW, the cockpit canopy is actually supposed to be vacuformed. It's dome shaped, not angular. The frame is quite thin, too. Flintlock, try getting a sculpting tool for the scribing, you can achieve wider lines depending on the tool. You can also angle your tool to one side or the other as you make your scribes to achieve a wider scribe.

Thanks. I'll try that. I noticed also that the frame is rounded, not straight. I planned on vacuforming a sheet of ABS to the inside of a 3" flat dish and then cutting out the frame from that. I am out of $ at the moment, but I'll post here when I get to it.

 

[abihsot]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

WTF is up with the grooves on the cockpit window ring? I'm not doing so hot with a scriber... I am doing OK with a file. But it seems like scribed lines are too thin, and the file is too wide... How in the world did they do it?

I think the cockpit ring isn't scribed. It looks to me that the lines are formed by a vacformed layer which is cut into panels and the round holes drilled in them. Then the panels are glued around the ring with a gap between them forming the lines. Can anyone confirm please?

 

[INCOM]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

The Airfix 1:600 HMS Belfast, too...

Which parts? I have that kit and don't see any for the Standard Tie. I must be blind.

 

[Flintlock]

Re: STUDIO SCALE TIE FIGHTER **UPDATED PICS**

Which parts? I have that kit and don't see any for the Standard Tie. I must be blind.

The parts from the Belfast go with the Ferrari 312T parts on the wing hubs.