Starship project

Originally posted by REL@Jan 24 2006, 08:31 PM
I use an expanding A/B mixed poly foam that I get here
http://burmanfoam.com/

It's not the "foam in a can" you use for insulation, it's the professional grade stuff.

After the foam sets up I sculpt it to the ribs, then cover it with epoxy to form a hard shell, then use bondo to fill in any imperfections.
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I am totally knocked out at your craftsmanship.. :eek That is one beautiful build.

If you could indulge a few questions:

Any chance you could post some pictures of the foam technique? I'm really blown away at the results.

What are you using for the ribs?...it looks transluscent.

I checked out Burman Foam but couldn't figure out which products you used for the foam and hard coat.

Thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing your progress.
 
Thank you. I'd be happy to put together a tutorial of sorts when I'm finished with the whole thing.

I'm using acrylic for the ribs, the foam I'm using is a 2.5lb poly foam, (SKU# 300-21Q on Burmanfoam)you can get harder foams for different applications.

The 2.5lb is the best for sculpting, especially if you're going to skin it. For mothermolds or stand alone props you can use a 4 or 6lb foam. To create the hard shell I use fiberglass epoxy.



I started sculpting the secondary hull.

SB11.jpg
 
Thanks so much for the foam process photos...it's nice to know what to expect.

I don't mean to be a pest BUT can you tell us a bit about working with the acrylic (workablility, cutting, gluing, etc)? I've only had experience with styrene...is it similar? Is one better than the other? Cheaper?
 
Acrylic sheets (plexiglass) is very different from working with styrene. You can't cut it by hand, you need a bandsaw, tablesaw or you can have it laser cut. It doesn't sand very well, and you have to use a special acrylic bonder to glue it together. But it's great for applications like this since it's completely straight and flat, so you can get perfect symmetry with your piece.
 
I'd add that acrylic is AWESOME for scratchbuilding as long as you don't have to work it by hand at all. It's simply too hard to work with most hand tools. But if you can draw your patterns and have the parts lasercut, it is simply marvelous stuff. It glues so strong you might bust the plastic before the joint will give. (This is why ILM used it to build the core structures of all the Star Wars and Galactica studio models.) It's brittle in a sense in that it likes to split at corners so you should avoid notches in your parts. But, other than that, it's mighty strong stuff. (If you need even tougher, use polycarbonate -- but that can't be lasercut very well.)

It does sand well, but only with a power sander. I have a stationary belt/disc sander (about $60 if you get a good deal) that works wonderfully.
 
Originally posted by REL@Jan 25 2006, 05:12 AM
Thanks.

Yeah I should've thought more about the scale before I started this. I didn't really consider the scale, I designed it at the size I wanted, which worked out to be that scale. But it's too late to change it now.
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Simply beautiful man. I can' wait to see more progression pics. You starship modelers never cease to amaze me. :)
 
Wow..

Is "bonerific" a word? If it is, I think it applies to your beautiful ship.

I think I need to be alone now... :p
 
It looks like primer, but it's actually putty that you can thin down and spray through an airbrush. No matter how thick you put it on it will dry nice and smooth without obliterating the detail.
 
That is really fantastic work your doing. IÂ’m enjoying watching this thread and seeing your progress. Keep it coming. :D
 
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