Star Wars Full-Size Scout Trooper Speeder Bike Build

In order to create the paint chipping/weathered effect, I'm going to take a page from my model building efforts and lay down a coat of silver paint as the base. Even though I started with brown (wanted to check the hue), I will spray paint the whole bike in silver spray paint (Rustoleum) as base for the chipping effort.

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Back to the silver paint technique - The key here is to let the silver dry completely and then work quickly on the next few steps. Here's a blast from the 80's - get out your can of Aqua Net Hairspray (Aersol) and saturate a paper towel. Dab the paper towel randomly over the silver paint. This will create a slight barrier between the silver and the body color. Once the hairspray dries (like 5 mins) - spray the top coat on immediately. Note, I'm not using acrylics here - I'm using spray paint lacquer on this project.

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Dab it in a random pattern in the high-traffic areas (corners, edges, etc.)

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Spray paint the final colors - in this case, I'm spraying a medium nutmeg brown with highlights of dark brown, bronze, olive, and a hint of black. Only rattle cans for this job, I left my airbrush in the house as it's waaaay too humid to airbrush acrylics.

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Some more painting photos:

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Now - the fun weathering process can begin! (This is my favorite part!)


As you've guessed by now, in order to create the paint chipping effect, we'll be removing the top layer of paint we just sprayed in order to reveal the silver paint below. Remember, these things fly at 200mph in the forest - wonder why there aren't more bugs splattered?


They key here is to let the brown paint set up just to where it's a bit tacky, but not full cured - perhaps 20-30 mins after painting. If you wait to long, better paints can adhere through the Aqua Net and the effect is lost.


So, here's what you'll need - a roll of clear packing tape and some heavy steel wool (to help add texture).

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If you just lay the strip of tape down, you'll pull off a perfect rectangle of paint - definitely not the look we're going for here. It helps to wad the tape up and then pull it back apart to put some creases and wrinkles in it.


You can also impress the steel wool into the tape to create textures. Your fingernail and any other tool also work to create many effects.

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In this case, less is more and it's easy to have too much fun and overdo it. But don't despair, you can always reshoot more topcoat color and peel again.

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Start on one end and work around -

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The steel wool also makes good scratch effects too -

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The edges and high-spots are prime for chipped paint effects.

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That looks about right -

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Don't forget the tops of the rivets!

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A quick dab of the paint and the paint is gone -

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When flying around 300mph (according to the expanded universe) just a few feet from the ground with debris hitting all around, the integrity of the paint job begins to break down. And as with any weathering job, it's easy to over due the effect and sand blast the entire front. Taking a steel wool and depressing it into the tape creates an interesting mottle pattern to the front of the bike.

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At this scale, it's difficult to make convincing paint scratch effects when painting "on" silver. Some light scratches with the steel wool cut thin scrapes of paint to reveal the silver underneath.

But wait - we're not done yet! :)

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Here's a key step to the process, the silver paint is too bright as it shows through. A very slight misting of light brown and a darker bronze, take the edge off the reflectiveness of the silver and tone it down, thus making it look like "aged" weathering that has accumulated over time.

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OK - let's keep going... The foot pedals are cut from plywood, with a PVC pole, a PVC center peg (heated and bent), and a toe frame from plastic drip line.



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Installed! These actually actuate and retract up with a strong spring.

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Let's complete the control panel!

Using the 3D printer (if you don't have one - you NEED one!) ;), I created the controls for the speeder bike by taking rough measurements and comparing to studio photos. Once printed, a coat of paint and there they are. To keep people from breaking them off too easily, 3.5" wood screws were drilled through them and then drilled into the control panel. 2-Part Epoxy was applied for the greeblies on top.


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Engine Flap Assembly -


With my 3D printed hinge assembly installed, it's time to install the flaps! Using some trimmed masonite sections, small rubber sticker feet (for legs of chairs) are adhered into the pattern seen on the original -

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Next step - you guessed it! Paint it silver, wait 30 minutes, then spray Aqua Net! You know this stuff smells different than it did in the 80's? Maybe I've been smelling too much spray paint lately, but it's definitely not the same... ;(

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Once the Silver is fairly dry you can coat it in the top coat - in this case, I'm using a metallic bronze with an accent of black.

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These two shots demonstrate how the silver looks before and after the silver is slightly toned down with the bronze metallizer:

Before:

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After:

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Installed on the new hinges!

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With the other components assembled - it's starting to take shape!

Just a few notes - the bed roll on the back needs straps and buckles, there are a few greeblies yet to add, and of course the handle bar assemblies are yet to install. Overall, I think it looks kinda' like a speeder bike.

Not bad for about $150 investment so far?

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...AMAZING! I absolutely love the weathering you've done so far.

This thing is really taking shape. All I can say is well done.

Also, are you going to paint the supports black?
 
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...AMAZING! I absolutely love the weathering you've done so far.

This thing is really taking shape. All I can say is well done.

Also, are you going to paint the supports black?
Thanks T K! Absolutely - once the handlebars are installed, I'll cut back the poles so they don't protrude as much.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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