Star Destroyer #3
- Thread starter ringa
- Start date
ringa
Well-Known Member
Looking like a couple of stingrays, these engine section halves are built and ready for detailing.
It's interesting to note that when working out the patterns for these, Charles found that the back of this model is entirely asymmetrical. It was not a matter of making one half of the engine structures, duplicating it and flipping it upside down. We found that the bottom hull curves up to its aft point, altering the angles significantly from the top. Because my model is more symmetrical than the original, we decided that I would use one half of the patterns twice.
Because the bottom hull is permanently attached to the frame, I was able to glue the supports for the engine structures to it. You can see just how deep and angled the engines are on a ANH star destroyer, unlike the ESB version, which is not as deep. Because of this, the ESB angles are completely different.
Another big difference between the two versions is the side trench depth. Once again, the ANH version is much deeper than the ESB. Also, this version has a forced perspective built into the trenches. Where the ESB is pretty much even all the way down, this one starts out wide at the nose and tapers down to a mere 3/8" at the rear. Even though the trench wall inside is the same height throughout. This is done by making the frame angle narrower than the hull so that the aft hull corners are out further than they are at the nose. But only just a little. Like I've said before, when dealing with all these angles, the slightest adjustment has huge, cascading effects.
When asking Lorne Peterson about the U-channels and rims, he said that they are made of brass on the filming model. You can see that I have brass channels (thanks to Lee), but I chose to go with plastic for the rims. I know that is anathema to some, but I did so after careful consideration. First, I know from experience that CA and brass don't mix. I don't mean that I would have tried to glue the brass rims to the U-channels, I would have silver soldered them. After having done a multitude of Star Trek TOS brass communicator lids, that would not have been a big deal. Its all the tiny details that go on the rims. I wanted them to be more secure. Super glued parts simply flake off the brass with the slightest pressure. I've devised a way of securing the plastic rims without gluing them to brass. It works really well as I've banged them into the wall a few times without damage carrying the model upstairs (big model + narrow stairs = :cry). So I chose to go with this combination for detail security. When painted it won't look any different anyway.
Lorne also suggested that I get a notching tool (a nibbler) to cut the notches out of the rims. If you don't have one, get one! What could have taken about an hour was done in less than 5 minutes.
It should be an interesting weekend. Patiently sitting in its box, the superstructure awaits being mated to the hull! Will this happen sooner than later? I don't know, but stay tuned!
It's interesting to note that when working out the patterns for these, Charles found that the back of this model is entirely asymmetrical. It was not a matter of making one half of the engine structures, duplicating it and flipping it upside down. We found that the bottom hull curves up to its aft point, altering the angles significantly from the top. Because my model is more symmetrical than the original, we decided that I would use one half of the patterns twice.
Because the bottom hull is permanently attached to the frame, I was able to glue the supports for the engine structures to it. You can see just how deep and angled the engines are on a ANH star destroyer, unlike the ESB version, which is not as deep. Because of this, the ESB angles are completely different.
Another big difference between the two versions is the side trench depth. Once again, the ANH version is much deeper than the ESB. Also, this version has a forced perspective built into the trenches. Where the ESB is pretty much even all the way down, this one starts out wide at the nose and tapers down to a mere 3/8" at the rear. Even though the trench wall inside is the same height throughout. This is done by making the frame angle narrower than the hull so that the aft hull corners are out further than they are at the nose. But only just a little. Like I've said before, when dealing with all these angles, the slightest adjustment has huge, cascading effects.
When asking Lorne Peterson about the U-channels and rims, he said that they are made of brass on the filming model. You can see that I have brass channels (thanks to Lee), but I chose to go with plastic for the rims. I know that is anathema to some, but I did so after careful consideration. First, I know from experience that CA and brass don't mix. I don't mean that I would have tried to glue the brass rims to the U-channels, I would have silver soldered them. After having done a multitude of Star Trek TOS brass communicator lids, that would not have been a big deal. Its all the tiny details that go on the rims. I wanted them to be more secure. Super glued parts simply flake off the brass with the slightest pressure. I've devised a way of securing the plastic rims without gluing them to brass. It works really well as I've banged them into the wall a few times without damage carrying the model upstairs (big model + narrow stairs = :cry). So I chose to go with this combination for detail security. When painted it won't look any different anyway.
Lorne also suggested that I get a notching tool (a nibbler) to cut the notches out of the rims. If you don't have one, get one! What could have taken about an hour was done in less than 5 minutes.
It should be an interesting weekend. Patiently sitting in its box, the superstructure awaits being mated to the hull! Will this happen sooner than later? I don't know, but stay tuned!
Last edited:
ringa
Well-Known Member
ringa
Well-Known Member
darthweezy
New Member
I am so impressed by the builds I see on this forum! Yours is truly amazing! I had just shared with another builder on this forum that I am thankful for people like you guys that have the talent to make such impressive pieces!
There are so many models I see on this forum I'd love to have, I would need a house twice the size!
Just curious, how much will the finished models weigh?
There are so many models I see on this forum I'd love to have, I would need a house twice the size!
Just curious, how much will the finished models weigh?
ringa
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying this!
How much will it weigh? My first star destroyer is about 10 lbs. My second about 15 lbs. Those are only 3 feet long. This one is bigger, so I've tried to keep the materials light. But, there's more wood in the frame and more plexi making up the hull. Its not finished yet, and it already weighs about 20 lbs.
ringa
Well-Known Member
As of now, the top hull is permanently attached to the frame. Before I could do this, I had to paint the top hull trench or I would not be able to get inside there later. The engine frames are in place now as well. I was able to glue the first pieces to the engine section. Many to go, yet I don't have all of them.
It's getting very exciting.
It's getting very exciting.
ckwanwoo
Sr Member
Hey Rick,
Your Devastator is perfect...:thumbsup
I also start to re-build my devastator using more accurated dimensions.
Thanks to you because I'm very inspired from you...
Only my problems are panel-line and the accurated structure....:cry
I absolutely want to get the casting or laser-cut from you
thanks Eric.
Your Devastator is perfect...:thumbsup
I also start to re-build my devastator using more accurated dimensions.
Thanks to you because I'm very inspired from you...
Only my problems are panel-line and the accurated structure....:cry
I absolutely want to get the casting or laser-cut from you
thanks Eric.
ringa
Well-Known Member
Hey Rick,
Your Devastator is perfect...:thumbsup
I also start to re-build my devastator using more accurated dimensions.
Thanks to you because I'm very inspired from you...
Only my problems are panel-line and the accurated structure....:cry
I absolutely want to get the casting or laser-cut from you
thanks Eric.
Thank you, Eric! I guess we are inspired by each other's work.
There were many times I wish I had chosen to have the panel lines laser cut, but I wanted the model to have the hand-made look of the original. Now that all those hours of scribing are done, I can be proud that I did it that way.
I look forward to your posts when you start your new Devastator!
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Killer job Rick !
That's porn, really ! :love I look too much at this thread.... I finally bought the wood yesterday to cut my ribs for my armature because of you ! And a new powerfull saw... Now I need to buy 2 large acrylic plates (1200*2500 mm), my last big expense for it (I hope so lol).
Good job on the engine area, it's really tricky to get right because of all those angles ! That's probably the most complex area to nail on the ISD ! Cant wait to see this area covered of greeblies !
Keep up the good work my friend.
That's porn, really ! :love I look too much at this thread.... I finally bought the wood yesterday to cut my ribs for my armature because of you ! And a new powerfull saw... Now I need to buy 2 large acrylic plates (1200*2500 mm), my last big expense for it (I hope so lol).
Good job on the engine area, it's really tricky to get right because of all those angles ! That's probably the most complex area to nail on the ISD ! Cant wait to see this area covered of greeblies !
Keep up the good work my friend.
ringa
Well-Known Member
Killer job Rick !
That's porn, really ! :love I look too much at this thread.... I finally bought the wood yesterday to cut my ribs for my armature because of you ! And a new powerfull saw... Now I need to buy 2 large acrylic plates (1200*2500 mm), my last big expense for it (I hope so lol).
Good job on the engine area, it's really tricky to get right because of all those angles ! That's probably the most complex area to nail on the ISD ! Cant wait to see this area covered of greeblies !
Keep up the good work my friend.
Hey Julien!!! Great to hear from you!
That's AWESOME that you are moving forward with your armature! There are a LOT of people here cheering for you on that! All the best!!!
-... . .- --..
Sr Member
Wow great job getting all of those angles and holes fitting together just so.
You should post some good pics of the parts you're looking for here or in a separate ID thread, sort of like:
Large scale Millennium Falcon Kit ID's
Since most of the ANH donor kits are pretty well-known by now, and there are some really talented part spotters around here.
You should post some good pics of the parts you're looking for here or in a separate ID thread, sort of like:
Large scale Millennium Falcon Kit ID's
Since most of the ANH donor kits are pretty well-known by now, and there are some really talented part spotters around here.
jawsmodels
Sr Member
Beautiful stiff Rick. You nailed that back end. I have the back end 95% identified o you'll be ok.
ASPHIAX
New Member
Just spent over 2,5 hours reading through your entire thread and I just cant believe the level of work you are displaying here. Truly a masterwork !
But what ispires me the most is that you just started building something you loved, wanted and could not find anywhere else. Its those bold moves that defines the shape the universe - be it CG, Styrene or Real universes !
Cant wait for the next installment ...
But what ispires me the most is that you just started building something you loved, wanted and could not find anywhere else. Its those bold moves that defines the shape the universe - be it CG, Styrene or Real universes !
Cant wait for the next installment ...
ringa
Well-Known Member
Thanks! I'm glad you are enjoying this!
I need to get more photos up here. I've been busy detailing the engine area, and just before I wrote this, I spent several hours cutting and gluing tiny plastic chips all over the top hull. I am trying to be as close to the original as I can, which makes it take longer. Got most of it done. Will hopefully finish that tomorrow.
Then its back to the engines again. I'm lacking several parts, so I have to wait on some of those until I can find, buy or substitute them.
I need to get more photos up here. I've been busy detailing the engine area, and just before I wrote this, I spent several hours cutting and gluing tiny plastic chips all over the top hull. I am trying to be as close to the original as I can, which makes it take longer. Got most of it done. Will hopefully finish that tomorrow.
Then its back to the engines again. I'm lacking several parts, so I have to wait on some of those until I can find, buy or substitute them.
