SS Narcissus BUILD teaser.
- Thread starter Flyscriber
- Start date
HAHA, yes the old rub and peel will be happening. I have a few old sheets left in the stash somewhere.Very nice base to display that Narcissus
Cheers Bjorn. Some changes made already, and the greeblies are now so insanely small as i fill up the gaps. Its taking a while, but should be well worth it.
Cheers joberg, it took a while to get the placement of the led's to get the darker areas and get the highlights on the padded rear wall. Should look even better with a bit of final weathering.
Next stage completed. Just the final little doodats, then throw some paint at it which should be fun. Hope you like it.
Cheers joberg.
SO, the Narcissus update looks like this.
All lighting is in place and engine cowlings are fitted. Light bleeds were very minimal, confined mainly to the rear engine areas along the long seams to the perspex, but two passes of black with a 1000 grit sand between coats sorted that out nicely.
Then came a wet sand with 1200 grit, a good clean up and airbrushing all the recesses in white leaving feathered edges to the painting, then a complete mist coat, and a full wet covering. Then sand, and another white wet coat.
Now it is ready for the final check of the surfaces, a quick fill if needed, sanding again and final wet white coat.
Ive also done more on the stand now, and it's now waiting for the final finish on the Narcissus so i can match the weathering to it.
So no more painting on the stand just yet. Next up is the final finishing and weathering of the now White Narcissus.
Cheers folks, see you soon.
SO, the Narcissus update looks like this.
All lighting is in place and engine cowlings are fitted. Light bleeds were very minimal, confined mainly to the rear engine areas along the long seams to the perspex, but two passes of black with a 1000 grit sand between coats sorted that out nicely.
Then came a wet sand with 1200 grit, a good clean up and airbrushing all the recesses in white leaving feathered edges to the painting, then a complete mist coat, and a full wet covering. Then sand, and another white wet coat.
Now it is ready for the final check of the surfaces, a quick fill if needed, sanding again and final wet white coat.
Ive also done more on the stand now, and it's now waiting for the final finish on the Narcissus so i can match the weathering to it.
So no more painting on the stand just yet. Next up is the final finishing and weathering of the now White Narcissus.
Cheers folks, see you soon.
Cheers Bjorn. Im getting used to the way the graphite works now. Its strange stuff but pretty workable to get the desired look. ONce i get the decals on ill be doing a vid to show if i can get the weathering just right or not !! ;-).
Heres the next installment of the Narcissus build. It shows a bit of the interior scratch build and the lighting method i used which is very simple and easy to fix if needed in the future. Then the base coats.
Next stage is the decals and weathering then were all complete. One more vid to go after this one. Hope you like it. Thanks for checking it out. Happy modelling everyone.
Heres the next installment of the Narcissus build. It shows a bit of the interior scratch build and the lighting method i used which is very simple and easy to fix if needed in the future. Then the base coats.
Next stage is the decals and weathering then were all complete. One more vid to go after this one. Hope you like it. Thanks for checking it out. Happy modelling everyone.
Paint is a Pure White primer. No tints or off whites. Just plain bright white . Easy life.
You need to seal the graphite powder with matt finish. Go lightly with the lacquer over the graphite or it will gather in each droplet of lacquer and dry with a spotty look to it. Keep em light and delicate passes to seal it up. Try "The Army painter, anti shine" instead of the small cans of Tamia matt, as the Tamia goes on thick with very little control to the nozzle. Or get a nice can of clear coat mixed up at a car paint suppliers using 35% matting agent. Hope it comes together well for you.
. Easy life.You need to seal the graphite powder with matt finish. Go lightly with the lacquer over the graphite or it will gather in each droplet of lacquer and dry with a spotty look to it. Keep em light and delicate passes to seal it up. Try "The Army painter, anti shine" instead of the small cans of Tamia matt, as the Tamia goes on thick with very little control to the nozzle. Or get a nice can of clear coat mixed up at a car paint suppliers using 35% matting agent. Hope it comes together well for you.
Talaris
Active Member
Thank you! I’m mostly using Vallejo products when in the UK so I’ll check if they have what I need.Paint is a Pure White primer. No tints or off whites. Just plain bright white
You need to seal the graphite powder with matt finish. Go lightly with the lacquer over the graphite or it will gather in each droplet of lacquer and dry with a spotty look to it. Keep em light and delicate passes to seal it up. Try "The Army painter, anti shine" instead of the small cans of Tamia matt, as the Tamia goes on thick with very little control to the nozzle. Or get a nice can of clear coat mixed up at a car paint suppliers using 35% matting agent. Hope it comes together well for you.
Amazing work, Andy. I went down the rabbit hole last night and binged your build videos. Great tips on putting the pin washes in before painting for those hard to reach greebly areas before painting. Likewise with the overall painting. At first I thought you were going to do a traditional panel line shading technique. I’ve never seen that done before. I’ll be starting my first true studio scale build and will be trying out these methods. Thanks!
So, the time has come to call it quits on the Narcissus.
Its finally finished and on the base, and it looks incredible.
This has been the most well made and most accurate kit ive had the pleasure of working on, together with a wealth of diagrams and full size plans which came with the kit making it a real journey.
The scratch built kit bashed interior was definitely needed to complete the look.
Thanks to everyone who has helped out with this.
Here is the final video featuring the graphite weathering and the big reveal.
Happy modelling folks.
Its finally finished and on the base, and it looks incredible.
This has been the most well made and most accurate kit ive had the pleasure of working on, together with a wealth of diagrams and full size plans which came with the kit making it a real journey.
The scratch built kit bashed interior was definitely needed to complete the look.
Thanks to everyone who has helped out with this.
Here is the final video featuring the graphite weathering and the big reveal.
Happy modelling folks.
Thanks bcgd. I personally wouldn't use the graphite weathering on anything star wars etc, as i think the look is quite specific to this model, or rather the "Narcissus", and would probably not work so well for other genres. Having said that, who knows, it's always good to explore. Maybe try it on a bandai before transferring the technique to an expensive studio model. Just a thought. I always do a tester just in case.
Thanks for the kind words, and have fun exploring the weathering.
joberg
Legendary Member
Great stuff Andy and the weathering is top notch and really complete that wonderful iconic model
I'm a fan of graphite and have been using the stuff for the wear and tear on my models for decades! I like to use a large make-up brush for big areas and small ones for the details as well as make-up QTips.
I'm a fan of graphite and have been using the stuff for the wear and tear on my models for decades! I like to use a large make-up brush for big areas and small ones for the details as well as make-up QTips.
Oh, no. Graphite is too dangerous for me to use. I meant I liked your technique of using a brush to get paint into the hard to reach spots in the greeblies and corners before airbrushing.Thanks bcgd. I personally wouldn't use the graphite weathering on anything star wars etc, as i think the look is quite specific to this model, or rather the "Narcissus", and would probably not work so well for other genres. Having said that, who knows, it's always good to explore. Maybe try it on a bandai before transferring the technique to an expensive studio model. Just a thought. I always do a tester just in case.
Thanks for the kind words, and have fun exploring the weathering.
Thats interesting joberg, Ive used powder pigments for a while on some subjects, never went to the graphite as i only really used it for buffing blasters to a nice "metal/ish" shine, hence why i never used it on weathering. what subjects have you used it on in the past?
bcgd, Yeah im the same with the graphite, although it is very workable it's more like drawing /sketching techniques with the rubber and shading. I found it quite hard to get the "messy" ish feel to the finish as its very easy to blend everything, I much prefer paint myself. Although i will be trying it on some smaller scales as i think it would lend itself well to models with very shallow relief detail/ panel lines etc
Popping pin washes into the corners before the main weathering allows me to visualise all the darker, or rusty areas sketched in so I can see how the overall balance of the surfaces is working compared to the reference before airbrushing. Just something i do. No rules, and always more to learn, which is why i love this hobby.
