Solid Metal Terminator Pewter T-800 Bust Replica Prop (WIP)

Pewter is expensive per KG as it's mostly tin which has a commodity value just like eg. gold. There are other 'low melt' alloys that are cheaper but they often contain lead, antimony, zinc etc... Cap guns were probably made from 'white metal' which is a mix of various things, usually mostly zinc.

Being able to cast metal straight into a flexible silicone mould is a super nice easy cheap and quick way to do it, so the extra cost of the metal saves you a lot. Yes aluminium is cheaper, often free, as you can melt scrap. But you need to work at a higher temperature so need to use different methods such as sand casting or investment casting but the equipment and materials for that cost more, it takes longer and it's harder to make the patterns which often need breaking down into many small pieces and then welding together after casting.

The main advantage of aluminium over something like pewter is that it's lightweight, but that may not be an issue if you're building a static model.

I'm currently experimenting with 'lost PLA' casting. It seems very attractive to be able to go from a 3D print to a real metal part, but to get good results is difficult. You need a kiln that can heat at a controlled rate to over 700°C, a vacuum casting setup to pull the metal into the mould, and even the investment casting plaster is expensive stuff. I've seen people use plaster of paris mixed with sand, but it's prone to failure and doesn't work for complex shapes or intricate detail.
 
I managed to get the neck rods finished, I installed some magnets in them so they automatically fix to the ball joints in the back of the skull. Another little job ticked off.
I also got delivery all the hardware for the terminator metal arm.
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This is one of the greatest builds I've ever seen! I didn't realize pewter could polish up so bright!

What size were the Kwik Links and ball bearings for the eyes? Could you tell me more about the hose and connectors running from the ears to the collar?

Amazing work - can't wait to see it completed!
 
This is one of the greatest builds I've ever seen! I didn't realize pewter could polish up so bright!

What size were the Kwik Links and ball bearings for the eyes? Could you tell me more about the hose and connectors running from the ears to the collar?

Amazing work - can't wait to see it completed!

Thanks, it takes a lot of finishing. But comes up nice.
It’s just little 4mm ball bearings and du-bro quick links. I got M2 Rod end links in U.K. the ball bearings come in my Thai recast vinyl kit.
The hoses are made from a few different parts, just a normal hydraulic hose with the end cut off, nut and swivel link from McMaster carr installed, as close as I could get it.
All the info is on my Facebook page I go into a lot more detail. Just search full metal T-800 skull.
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Been doing a little more work on the arm while I get some pewter and silicone to cast the metal neck.
I have managed to build the main arm support tube with all the details. Using aluminium and steel rod/tubes. Soldered -3an hydraulic line.
In the last picture you can see the original poor Thai recast part and my remade metal one.
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Great job once again on those hoses...as for the "poor re-cast" wording, I think that, seeing it, I wouldn't pick up that crap out of a garbage can o_O
 
Great job once again on those hoses...as for the "poor re-cast" wording, I think that, seeing it, I wouldn't pick up that crap out of a garbage can o_O
Yeah a lot of terminator casts are rough from years and years of recasting. I think some of their molds are really old also. Luckily using most of the kit just for reference.
 
Digging through your facebook posts, it's difficult to find the part numbers - and, importantly, proper sizes - for some of the pieces. I would love to attempt this arm, though! Any chance you'll put together a master parts list? Have you found the outer knuckle parts? The round discs?

I LOVE these builds. Thanks so much for sharing!
 
Digging through your facebook posts, it's difficult to find the part numbers - and, importantly, proper sizes - for some of the pieces. I would love to attempt this arm, though! Any chance you'll put together a master parts list? Have you found the outer knuckle parts? The round discs?

I LOVE these builds. Thanks so much for sharing!
My Facebook page is more for the skull than the arm. The arm is just a side project really.
What sizes do you need to know? Most parts are made by hand. I just used the rough resin kit as reference. The only found parts are...
Du-Bro 302 rod ends and the Hirobo rc helicopter cross members for finger pistons.


all sizes can be found at above link, there are some nice detailed files from a fellow RPF member who was kind enough to share them.

if you need to know a specific part just ask. A lot has been modified and changed or completely made from scratch.

The knuckle discs will be cast in metal on my fingers. I have not found them.
 

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  • T-800 Blueprints.zip
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Another arm update.
Cleaned up the palm and removed the poorly cast piston mounts and replaced them with clean metal ones. This will allow me to get a nice clean mold, so the metal part I cast will be much better than the Thai recast. I test fit the finger pistons as well.
Just needs a final fill and sand before I can cast in metal.
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Thanks for the arm tips! I’ll check out that link.

I’m actually curious to know what size hydraulic line/hose (braided steel sleeve) you’ve settled on for the skull, and which ball joint linkage you’ve used for the rear side mount behind that. I’ve picked up a couple hoses, but both seem too thick. The ball mounts all seem to stand off their bases a bit too much compared to the reference. Any advice would be very welcome!

I did pick up Du-Bro kwik links for the eye mech - rather than remove the post to add a ball bearing I used 4mm steel beads, with a suitable hole bored through to fit the existing post. It results in an extra “disc” detail inside one wing, but I like the ease of assembly and the strong mechanical connection of it. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction - any of these cast parts replaced with metal will really show in the finished piece, I think.


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Thanks for the arm tips! I’ll check out that link.

I’m actually curious to know what size hydraulic line/hose (braided steel sleeve) you’ve settled on for the skull, and which ball joint linkage you’ve used for the rear side mount behind that. I’ve picked up a couple hoses, but both seem too thick. The ball mounts all seem to stand off their bases a bit too much compared to the reference. Any advice would be very welcome!

I did pick up Du-Bro kwik links for the eye mech - rather than remove the post to add a ball bearing I used 4mm steel beads, with a suitable hole bored through to fit the existing post. It results in an extra “disc” detail inside one wing, but I like the ease of assembly and the strong mechanical connection of it. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction - any of these cast parts replaced with metal will really show in the finished piece, I think.


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The hose was modified using a few different parts but started with the below part number from pneumaticsdirect.co.uk
1/4 inch hose 30cm
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the part that connects to the back of the skull I used a 12mm ball joint and some parts from McMaster carr with a magnet
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I have some aluminium pistons being machined for the arm build that can be picked up Friday. I will also have some more silicone arriving Tuesday Wednesday, I can then get on with molding the neck, the final piece of the puzzle can be cast in a few days. Until then another picture of the skull with the eyelit up.
Won’t be long now and it will all be mounted to a base
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I have been busy this week and weekend. Had a big problem with the neck mold, the neck decided to detach itself from the base and float in the silicone. Not leaving much time to react, I managed to salvage it......whilst making a huge mess and wasting silicone.
But in the end I got there, today I cast the final piece of the bust, the neck.
Just need to sand and polish it like the rest of the parts.
Then onto mounting it to a steel frame and nice wooden base.
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