Pommel Indexing
Some people had difficulty knowing how far to insert the pommel before tightening down the set screw.
Consider drilling a shallow hole in the pommel, to serve as an indexing guide. Could this detail be added to the run?
Critique
The reason I would like one vented pommel, and two chunks, is because the other chunk will go on the non-vented pommel.
With all the threading, this looks to be a very accurate and secure static hilt.
I understand the primary goal is to have an accurate form to the stunt prop. The ability to accept FX has always been of secondary focus.
It will be nice to have the vented section in case I want to do an FX install. But I'm starting to wonder about the practicality of it all.
There's a NeoPixel crystal reveal of this hilt, posted on YouTube.
To use it, the whole thing essentially has to be dismantled every time. And the process reversed to store it away. This is because the kill key is inside the chassis.
You have to undo the set screw for the pommel. Remove the pommel. Slide out the chassis. Remove or insert the kill key. Slide the chassis back in. Put the pommel back in. Tighten the set screw.
The build is very impressive. But there's no way to be spontaneous; or to set and forget.
The only removable blade saber I had before this is a Parks. The hold-down screw is made from a soft metal, I think to avoid stripping the threads of the body over time.
So the reason I'm writing this is: I think there's merit in having the cone knob or boot chunk be a kill key. Maybe even have the middle of the stem threaded, while the lower portion is smooth. The problem with this is I'm not sure the preexisting hole is wide enough.
I have some ideas on how to increase practicality. But I don't know if such parts can be retrofitted. Or if it would require a complete redesign. It might not be enough like the stunt prop anymore.
The Head
The emitter flange is a cap and does not need to come off. It can turn with the outside of the balance pipe.
The blade plug is shaped like a cup, with a bearing and nipple press-fitted inside. Thus, the nipple is part of the blade plug, but can spin freely.
The grenade stem extends all the way into the balance pipe. The end of the stem works like a collet for the blade. It's split, tapered, and threaded.
There's a sleeve that goes over the stem end, to tighten the collet. The inside of the sleeve is tapered and threaded. The outside has vertical grooves.
The balance pipe goes over the sleeve. The inside of the balance pipe has vertical grooves. The balance pipe base is attached to the stem with circlips.
You can turn the balance pipe, but it does not move up or down. The sleeve turns with it, because of the parallel grooves. But the sleeve is allowed to slide up or down as it threads along the stem.
As a result, you do not need to mess with screws when inserting or removing the blade.
The Clamp
There is a storage receptacle in the hilt under the clamp card. A second chunk can be stored here. Flip the lever, and slide the card or clamp, to gain access to this chunk.
The Cone Knob
It really is a knob! Turn it one way to activate lights and sounds. Turn it the other way for lights only.
The Chunk
The chunk works as a kill key. There are two. One has a nonconductive stem. The other has a conductive stem. Whichever one not being used gets stored under the clamp. The stem is held by detent, and requires no threading to worry about. Timing of the rotational angle could be set by keying the shaft at the landing.
The Pommel
The pommel is the only part you would need to unscrew to change. Instead, maybe the circular indentation could be a hidden release button. Like when changing a camera lens.
Closing Remarks
Hopefully this gave you some new ideas on how to modify this hilt for FX. If not, perhaps some of these ideas could be implemented in a future design.
