Show your custom Lightsabers!

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by GreenCircleCube, Jan 22, 2015.

  1. Bengrim09

    Bengrim09 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    mmmmmm very nice, very nice indeed
     
  2. scide

    scide Jr Member

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    This is a shiny one! Nice work!
    Guess you’ll have to wear gloves when enjoying these. :cool
     
  3. lukold

    lukold Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yea it's crazy! I had to keep wiping it before I put on gloves. Worth the effort just to see it.
     
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  4. connor645

    connor645 New Member

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    Does anyone know if ASP or TCSS parts will fit onto flash handles?
     
  5. SethS

    SethS Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    With some trickery, yes. Can you just pop them on? No.

    I have several sabers in these pages that use both.
     
  6. connor645

    connor645 New Member

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    Right on, what sort of trickery have you used in the past?
     
  7. SethS

    SethS Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here's a few I have been meaning to share...

    This one is based on a Presslite flash. The lower 3/4 is the Presslite, I've just reconfigured the stock parts. I also added t-track, and a Roman's Graflex repro clamp with a TCSS edge card.

    The neck/emitter is a TCSS pommel. I used plumber's silicone tape on the threads until it was the perfect thickness to tension fit inside the flash tube. The emitter/shroud is from a Canon Y, and is affixed with epoxy.

    press1.jpg
    press2.jpg press3.jpg

    This stealthy saber is (from top down), some rando eBay bad Luke V2 repro emitter and neck, an end cap from an underwater Nikon flashgun with some washers, a 1/4 camera tripod lock washer, a screen door roller wheel, an old Parks MPP clamp, then a TCSS body, TCSS pommel, another roller wheel, and a nylon lock nut.

    This one is built using the Obi-Wan method, everything is on a 1/4" 20 pitch rod. You can get them at any hardware store. 1/4" 20 is great, there are tons of common hard ware parts that use it that you can use for greeblie details, and it also is what most camera equipment uses for tripod mounts, which is universal to most flashguns.

    So that nylon twist knob nut thinger at the bottom is the base of the rod, and inside the emitter is another 1/4" nut. You put everything on the rod and tighten both ends and everything is pressure locked unto place.

    stealth1.jpg
    stealth2.jpg

    This one also uses a rod assembly. Top down, it's a Heiland stubby shroud on a neck made up of rando hardware plumbing department finds, then a trio of roller door wheels. The lower body is a TCCS f to f coupler and one of their blade holders/emitters that I used upside down. The pommel is a plastic chromed AS handwheel. The d-ring is a 1/4" tripod knob.

    DBHeiland1.jpg
    DBHeiland2.jpg

    So basically, starting at the bottom, I use that tripod d-ring through the handwheel. On the inside of the wheel, I use an f to f 1/4" 20 adapter (see below). The tripod knob into one side, the rod into the other.

    From there I start stacking the parts over the rod. They will be loose and drift at first. Sometimes using washers between parts helps. The roller wheels work as washers and also look great.

    At the top, I slipped a part from a hard drive over the rid and tightened it down with two of the nylon nuts to make the emitter.

    Hope that makes sense. It's a great base to build on. See my box below that;'s full of 1/4" 20 parts. All hardware store finds, greeblies found off old flashguns or photogear surplus, and Home Depot finds It's also pretty easy to drill a hole down the center of the guts in most flashed to run a rod through.

    onequarter.jpg
     
  8. connor645

    connor645 New Member

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    Those are fantastic! I've never considered using a rod assembly before.

    Here is my first ever saber. Made it using a Walz flash and some other found parts from around the house. I'm still not sure if I want to add grips or not..
     

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  9. PoopaPapaPalps

    PoopaPapaPalps Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    #bubblestrips4life
     
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  10. AnubisGuard

    AnubisGuard Sr Member

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    vztc6Bw.gif
     
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  11. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    60D9202F-8515-4971-A2CD-D47328945184.png My Stealth saber build made it onto a one sheet for the Star Wars Pilot I worked on recently. They did decide to remove the shroud but still psyched about it!
     
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  12. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    still looking great ! especially with this kind of professional picture (y)
     
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  13. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Since I can never leave well enough alone, I'm constantly updating my props.
    Here is the current state of my custom sabers:

    RF_Customs_Jan_2019.jpg
     
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  14. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    A few more pics:

    Padawan_01.jpg Padawan_02.jpg Padawan_01.jpg Padawan_02.jpg Knight_03.jpg Knight_01.jpg Knight_02.jpg Master_01.jpg
     
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  15. SethS

    SethS Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Those are great-- is mostly custom?
     
  16. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Found parts, spare parts, and scratch-built parts. These have been evolving for years. :)
     
  17. Nemesis9

    Nemesis9 Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    My favorite custom
     

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  18. lukold

    lukold Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just finished our Slimflex run, enjoy these pics!
    49898690_1198142593671560_7696501241752322048_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.jpg

    49716154_1198142617004891_7521132422772031488_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.jpg

    49620936_1198142640338222_8713319192708775936_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.jpg
     
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  19. CT1138

    CT1138 Sr Member

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    Ooooo! Shiney! :cool:
     
  20. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I guess this counts, I forgot about this thread
    Zeiss1.jpeg Zeiss2.jpeg
     
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  21. jorgen

    jorgen New Member

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    A 3D printed and freshly painted Obi Wan saber for my 5 year old. The saber will have electronics soon.

    IMG_3111.JPG
     
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  22. BipeFlyer

    BipeFlyer Active Member

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    Very nice weathering job!
     
  23. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here's one I've been tinkering with for a couple weeks:
     

    Attached Files:

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  24. AnubisGuard

    AnubisGuard Sr Member

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    Oh, that looks nice. Parts list? I recognize the Heiland clamp, but that's about it.
     
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  25. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    There’s part of a Heiland clamp, a WannaWanga Kobold clip, and some old school rubber grips. The textured section is patterned ABS sheet. The main body is part of a small lamp which provides the threaded tube which runs through the entire saber. The bottom is a bearing of some sort from a surplus store, the top section is a piece of machined aluminum from the same store. Everything else is stuff I had in my parts box. Most everything I used was at least slightly modified.
     
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  26. D48thRonin

    D48thRonin Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So last year I was FINALLY able to acquire both a Canon Model Y and a Model X. And now just recently I've finally had an opportunity to work on them.

    I started with the Model Y first - there was more pulling apart/cutting and tinkering to be done with that one, so I thought I'd get the busy work out of the way before the easy conversion of the Model X.

    Of course the first problem to sort was a bottom tube. I picked up a Canon Model B-II flash thinking (hoping) that it would be the same diameter. It was (y) The finish of the B was different than the Y, but I wasn't too worried about that, since most of the tube would be covered in T-tracks anyway - I had envisioned using 7 grips, or maybe even 8, depending upon how they spaced out (I ended up using 8 grips).

    The next task was to cut the tube to length. I used a pipe cutter to score a straight line and then followed that score line around and around and around the diameter of the tube with a jeweler's saw. It took a while, since the walls of the tube were surprisingly thick.

    Canon Y 01.jpg Canon Y 02.jpg

    I had originally intended to cut out the same kind of slots that the bottom tube of the Model X has, but after discovering how thick the walls of the B tube were I quickly abandoned that idea. Instead, I ground down the square studs on the inside of the clamp so that I could simply slide the bottom tube straight in - no muss, no fuss. There is no reason why I would ever have to take the thing back apart, so I decided that I would secure the bottom tube inside the clamp with a bit of JB Kwik epoxy.

    Canon Y 03.jpg Canon Y 04.jpg Canon Y 05.jpg

    I removed the bulb housing/reflector mount to see what sort of internal "guts" I would have to deal with at the emitter end. I wanted to leave the micro-sync dial on the back of the flash and its internal mounting frame intact, so that didn't leave me any room for an emitter socket. I decided that a shallow emitter face would be my best bet, much like what I ended up with on my DeMornay-Budd saber. I wanted to keep the rim of the bulb housing so I sawed that off with the jeweler's saw and then sanded down the face. Due to an oddity in its design, the hole was slightly off-center - I corrected that by enlarging the hole a tiny bit and it ended up being exactly 1 inch in diameter.

    Canon Y 06.jpg Canon Y 07.jpg

    Digging around in my saber parts box I found a model kit wheel that I had intended to use at some point in the past, since it was already painted and ready to go - it measured exactly 1 inch in diameter. What are the odds of THAT?! It was obviously meant to be. However, with the wheel in place, the black plastic rim really looked like a tire.

    Canon Y 08.jpg

    Clearly the rim needed to be painted...

    Canon Y 09.jpg

    Much better!

    I also picked up a couple Heiland stubby shrouds to use. They were both well-used and pretty beat - after sandblasting the wrinkle paint off, some serious casting flaws were revealed.

    Canon Y 10.jpg

    That was a bit of a bummer, as I had hoped to leave them with a bare metal sandblasted finish. Instead, I filled the flaws with Bondo and primed & painted them both.

    Canon Y 11.jpg

    Next I taped off the Canon logo on the clamp with a strip of aluminum tape. I've had a roll of silver mylar tape for years, but it wasn't quite wide enough to cover all of the various text on the clamp. I trimmed down an old slothfurnace card from the parts box and slid that into the slot.

    Canon Y 12.jpg

    The grips were 5-inch lengths from wannawanga that I trimmed down a bit - turns out Canons are a tad longer than a Graflex. The last step was installing a D-ring from the parts box with a button head socket screw.

    And done!

    Canon Y 13.jpg Canon Y 14.jpg Canon Y 15.jpg Canon Y 16.jpg

    Next up, the Model X...
     
  27. SethS

    SethS Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Always love a Canon saber
     
  28. Kovnyn

    Kovnyn Sr Member

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    Too bad the Canon isn't canon. That is nice!
     
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  29. D48thRonin

    D48thRonin Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol: I had that conversation with one of the guys at work - "It isn't canon to Star Wars, but it *is* a Canon!"
     
  30. Ridire Firean

    Ridire Firean Sr Member

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  31. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It’s from one of the many cameras that I’ve taken apart over the years. Sorry - I don’t know which one.
     
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  32. Joek3rr

    Joek3rr Sr Member

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    Reminds of the Kylo concept art saber.
     
  33. LordJossis

    LordJossis Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Machined a custom Kotor style lightsaber to go with my cosplay, a concept Asajj Ventress hilt (center), and a Sith Assassin double bladed saber (had RGB leds in both blades). Also wired by me using various Plecter Labs boards, but etched by ShadowCrestSabers

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  34. Kovnyn

    Kovnyn Sr Member

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    Which do you prefer?

    Raw aluminum 3 cell Mag lite conversion or red anodized 2 cell Maglite conversion? I also have a blue 4 cell at home not pictured I can use for the grip. I'm thinking of using that one for a double bladed Saber or as a Saber pike.

    I have rubber T-track grips inbound. Eventually I'll mold the aluminum tracks I own, but for now I'm just bought a set from the Custom Saber Shop.
    1551334130992311634336.jpg 15513342364701414559179.jpg

    Blade is also getting purchased from the CSS. Red thick wall with bullet tip.

    Eventually I'll add a sound card and speaker.
     
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  35. SethS

    SethS Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have a few thousand customs to share, but this one is my current fav...
     

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  36. AnubisGuard

    AnubisGuard Sr Member

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    The design is great, but the edge of that cutout is super rough. I have got to train you in the art of Dremel-fu. :lol:

    There's a bunch of sabers on my workbench that I swear I'm going to finish up, photograph, and post soon. Soon I tell you!
     
  37. SethS

    SethS Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    YOU'RE super rough! :mad:

    I took these before I sanded it and then colored the edge with a sharpie...
     
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  38. AnubisGuard

    AnubisGuard Sr Member

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    Everyone who knows me knows I'm a real macho tough guy. ;)
     
  39. Ridire Firean

    Ridire Firean Sr Member

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    Hey Kovnyn ! I like the raw aluminum better overall, but it needs a bit of dressing up yet. Right now it looks rather plain to me, but I bet with a black ring around it, or a set of grip strips, or some sort of pseudo-clamp, that it will look the part just fine.

    The anodized red, and please don't take this as insult, but the first two things the that pop into mind are: road flare, and... dollar store flashlight. It just doesn't look like a lightsaber at all in the red. Again, maybe with some accoutrements it will read more like a lightsaber.

    Have you left the flashlight guts intact? It'd be kinda neat to have a focusing emitter head for the times you didn't have a blade in the hilt. Almost a defacto blade plug in a way.

    Looking forward to seeing how you finish it off!
     
  40. Kovnyn

    Kovnyn Sr Member

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    1551516686948872055920.jpg
    Got some weathering and t track grips added. Removed the rubber switch cover to give the switch a better look. Blade will be here later today.

    15515168193701292014455.jpg

    Light source is just the LED replacement bulb, so the focusing cone had to go. I'll be making a blade plug out of the blade, since I have to cut it down anyway.
     
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  41. mechx

    mechx Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    My orgus :)
     

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  42. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  43. Ridire Firean

    Ridire Firean Sr Member

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    And instantly it looks SO much cooler! And not like a flashlight at all. Who would've guessed the underside of that button looked so STARWARSY?

    It's lookin' good, keep at it!
     
  44. BipeFlyer

    BipeFlyer Active Member

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    An elegant weapon for a more civilized time. Beautiful!
     
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  45. mechx

    mechx Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you! Yeah she is a beauty.
     
  46. SaiyanCookie

    SaiyanCookie New Member

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    Just finished my first custom build. Simple, to be used as a test saber for Proffie. Inspired by General Kota!
    20190303_183307.jpg 20190303_183752.jpg
     
  47. Kovnyn

    Kovnyn Sr Member

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    What light source did you use for your custom?

    I can't ever seem to get even fill.
     
  48. SaiyanCookie

    SaiyanCookie New Member

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    If that question was for me then my blade is neopixel. Made it myself following the tutorial from TCSS
     
  49. ed-209

    ed-209 Sr Member

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  50. Kovnyn

    Kovnyn Sr Member

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    I haven't taken the Neopixel plunge yet, but that is on the list for an eventual build.

    Have a bunch of internal parts ordered from The Custom Saber Shop that will eventually get a Nano Biscotte. The hilt itself will cost over a hundred dollars, and the internals will be even more. It's an addiction.

    But having a quality sound card installed makes the Saber. Plus, I dig LEDs and little electronics projects like this are quite enjoyable.
     
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