Sherlock Coat opinions/info?

[Risu]

Best advice I can give if you're really serious about this as more than a casual hobby is what Darth Mule recommended me, buy this book:

Amazon.com: Tailoring (Singer Sewing Reference Library) (9780865732414): Cy Decosse, Renee Dignan, Barbara Weiland O'Connell: Books

 

[booksandcorsets]

Since neroon was asking...
I have started drawing up the pattern I announced I would be doing quite some time ago (but hey, I did warn you that I wouldn't start before the summer holidays...), and it's available as a step by step instruction on my LJ since Sunday (construction of the back, so far).
I would LOVE it if someone actually worked along!

Oh, and by the way. I went to that large wholesale fabrics store yesterday. And I have ACTUALLY found an even better match than my alfatex (bottom of the pic: alfa, top: the new one). While the "pattern" is still too fine (app. four dotty things instead of the original two...), I know, its structure is coarser, the colours more subdued, and it is a tad heavier as well. What do you think?

Cheers!
elenthari

This is beautiful. Is there a place for us to purchase it online? Or are we folks in the states still out of luck?

I'm checking the NYC fabric district one more time... I'm coming up on a point where I need to make a decision b/c this is for Dragoncon. :-/

 

[TheLark]

That fabric looks awesome. I find I'm quite partial to the one I bought on fabric mart though.

Could you post a photo? I'm curious to see how the fabric mart one looks.

 

[neroon15]

Here is one picture. It's the one on the right. It's double sided but the fabric is heavy and beautiful. Ray R says it is almost "dead on." It's good enough for me. Hope you like it.

 

[TheLark]

Yeah, but I wanted to get a look of the actual cut of fabric that you received. Then you get a more complete idea of the wool because of different camera angles and such.

 

[booksandcorsets]

Sculpted, molded, and cast some buttons this weekend. They aren't 100% accurate (the stitchwork is probably off here and there) but they are more accurate than everything else I've been able to find.... and they are all mine!

Some sanding to do around the edges:

 

[jazzygeoffery]

I keep getting so many questions about this, I thought I would share with the group. Here is a look at the back spread open and a close up of the buttons:

It took me about 1 hour to get Photobucket to show these photos right-side up

Hope they help.

Thanks for all the pics Ray! I'm contemplating ordering a Cosplaysky coat, and it'd be awesome if you could take pictures of the front of the coat with the collar down(buttoned, and unbuttoned would be great) And finally, pictures of the back of the collar, showing how there's a strip of extra tweed to reinforce it. I want my collar to stand up properly, to make sure the lapels don't look silly big, and get the belt is right. Thanks in advance

 

[HaroldVonBraun]

Hmm, it seems baron boutique has done an (awful) version of the coat.

bbc sherlock holmes long coat

Also, i tried drawing the costume myself. I can't really color the coat, because then all the details would be invisible.

 

[booksandcorsets]

Okay, so I bit the bullet and purchased the FabricMart wool. Verdict: It's heavier than I would have liked (will be tricky to tailor collar and other overlapping bits). But from a distance? It looks pretty darn close.

Here it is with a quarter for size reference and the button I've yet to paint.

This double-sided wool is pretty nice. The reverse pattern is far less subtle:

 

[TheLark]

I actually wish the cosplaysky wool was a bit thicker. I don't know if it will be warm enough when it is done.

The Fabric Mart wool certainly has better spacing with its white notches, but they sort of look more "spotty" than grid-like when you try to view it as a whole (or at least the photos seem to give that impression).
Seems like a good buy though. It'll be warmer than mine.

 

[booksandcorsets]

I actually wish the cosplaysky wool was a bit thicker. I don't know if it will be warm enough when it is done.

The Fabric Mart wool certainly has better spacing with its white notches, but they sort of look more "spotty" than grid-like when you try to view it as a whole (or at least the photos seem to give that impression).
Seems like a good buy though. It'll be warmer than mine.

It is DEFINITELY more dot-based than a thread. Seen from afar it looks better, though.

As a side note to anyone who wants to purchase the FabricMart fabric: DO IT NOW. They have 16 yards available, and they're currently having a site-wide sale of 35% off until 8/5. My 6 yards cost me just $66 and that's WITH shipping.

 

[Kestre]

I'm split about whether or not to order the fabric mart stuff. What I really want to know is: are the dots in a horizontal/vertical pattern or diagonal?

 

[booksandcorsets]

I'm split about whether or not to order the fabric mart stuff. What I really want to know is: are the dots in a horizontal/vertical pattern or diagonal?

There's a lot to be conflicted about. On one hand: cheap, accessible now, fairly close to accurate. On the other: you can probably find a better option eventually. However, I need to make it this weekend so I can have it for Dragoncon.... so I nabbed it

Here's a larger image w/rulers on the edge of the fabric in an attempt to show the pattern of the dots. As you can see there's not much of one. I believe it IS a horizontal pattern rather than a diagonal, but there's not very much of a pattern vertically... which sort of distorts the eye.

 

[Kestre]

It's not quite perfect, but it's definitely the best I've seen online. I went ahead and got myself enough for a coat. I figure if I can find something better, it's not too much money wasted.

Thanks for the bigger photo!!

8 yards left, guys!

 

[booksandcorsets]

Here goes nothing!

I drafted this pattern in muslin yesterday and started sewing it together today.

First, I took a page from jessamygriffin's book and hand-stitched a thin muslin onto the front piece rather than using an iron-on interfacing. (I had originally used a very thick interfacing but it wasn't giving me the right "feel" and I figured--why not spend the extra manpower on getting this detail right?) However, if I had known it was going to take me 7 hours.... I would have just DEALT with the slightly stiffer front. #sigh

All pinned together!

Back darts are all sewn, the back vent ironed down and heavily steamed (with protection, of course). I'm letting it hang overnight before I stitch it together.

Knife and box pleats on the back skirt, also heavily ironed/steamed and pinned into shape. Skirt opens to 48" (expanding from the back waist measurement of 16"). This will give it a really large billow/flow. Again, this is resting on the form overnight to allow the wool to stretch out before I stitch it together.

More to come tomorrow. I'm going to fake the upper welted pocket because it lands RIGHT near my chest and as a woman wearing this coat... it will gap out because, well, reasons. So I'll make it a fake pocket.

 

[booksandcorsets]

Round two. All pieces drafted/cut and the torso pieced together. Shell and lining up on the dressform (except for the sleeves; I hate doing sleeves. Will do those last.)

Such a huge collar!

View from the back; the undercollar is not yet attached to the torso, just pinned together.

Really pleased how the back darts are lining up perfectly with the skirt pleats! The belt is 3" wide, and pinned in place. Eventually the buttons will be where those pins are; it's sewed directly into the shell.

And hey guys! I decided this wasn't going to be completely canon. POLKA DOT LINING.

 

[booksandcorsets]

Looking good. Finally got the collars right. The only things left to do are buttonholes, hem the bottom, and sew on the buttons.

 

[Meinkus01]

It's looks to be coming along nicely! I have been going back and forth about that fabric through almost every picture... but that last post goes toward convincing me. I look foreword to seeing it finished.

 

[booksandcorsets]

Done and done! Pics of me as Irene Adler coming after Dragoncon. (Wig required)

Buttons are by me; I sculpted them and cast a few copies. Not as clean as Risu's work, but I'm happy with them!

Meinkus01: about the fabric. If I had more time, I'd probably wait out to find a better tweed. It has the look but not the feel of the original coat.

 

[RayR]

Done and done! Pics of me as Irene Adler coming after Dragoncon. (Wig required)

Buttons are by me; I sculpted them and cast a few copies. Not as clean as Risu's work, but I'm happy with them!

Meinkus01: about the fabric. If I had more time, I'd probably wait out to find a better tweed. It has the look but not the feel of the original coat.

From the bit I can see, it looks very good. Yes the Tweed does look the part! And Great Job on the buttons!:thumbsup Can you give a link to Risu's, please. I missed that.