Roman Props MK1 Construction Help

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jorged123

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I’m guessing you won’t hold my hand, I get it covid..

I will settle for a elbow touch though..
I'd hold your hand, but we might also want a splatter shield/ fume hood if the soldering goes awry. So far I haven't exploded any li-ion cylinders. Most builders prefer removable batteries as opposed to hard wired with a recharge port anymore. Unlimited Power! You just have to get the chassis battery clips' tolerances right in order for the battery to fit properly and not slip out of the clips/chassis under force. Usually a Hi amp kill switch is used between the battery and the sound board on the positive lead.
 

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Dumog

New Member
I was curious where you guys get Wire from, buying wire in tiny pieces at a time and all the places I can find have limited sizes and colors. I'd Like to buy 25ft rolls. Thanks!
 

jorged123

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I get it at Amazon/radio shack. Ptfe and silicone insulated wires are the best. 28, 30, 22, and 20 awg stranded is the easiest to solder/ crimp. Larger gauges are easier to crimp. Get sets of 6 or so colors. It makes tracking a lot easier.
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
Update: 18500 battery (found one on TCSS) and 28mm heavy bass speaker work together!
 

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CrueGuyRob

New Member
I get it at Amazon/radio shack. Ptfe and silicone insulated wires are the best. 28, 30, 22, and 20 awg stranded is the easiest to solder/ crimp. Larger gauges are easier to crimp. Get sets of 6 or so colors. It makes tracking a lot easier.
As a follow-up to this - be aware that much of what Amazon includes in searches for PTFE wire has the same thickness of actual wire, but the insulation is much larger in diameter and can create huge headaches when trying to run multiple wires through narrow hilts and chassis.
 

SteuerEule

New Member
Is the power output of the 18500 enough for a neo pixel setup? I remember reading something that only the 18650 with 15A output are suitable?
 

awhite89

Member
If I could chime in for a moment

You need at least 10Amp for neopixel setup to run full brightness on white which draws about 9.9A
However, if you run 2 colors it'll draw roughly 7Amps and I'm 95% certain these batteries from TCSS put out around 7-7.5A
That being said, can you run white on these batteries? You sure can but your battery will likely get really hot fast so I wouldn't recommend it

I'd suggest going the easy route and getting the TCSS 18500 prewired battery to make life easier on you.
It's sure as hell a lot easier than buying a high amp battery and a high amp battery pcb from aliexpress (1 month or longer ship time) and making that work, here's the link. 0.53US $ 10% OFF|AEAK 1S 15A li ion BMS PCM battery protection board pcm for 18650 lithium ion li battery|bms pcm|protection boardbattery protection board - AliExpress

I hope that helps get you started on building out your V3, V2 or MK1
 

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awhite89

Member
After doing a little digging it looks like any 18500 1400mah battery I find only puts out 1.5-3Amps max... no good
There are some keepower 18500 batteries with high amp discharge on amazon but you'd be better off getting an 18350 at that rate since they're basically the exact same in terms of milliamp hours and amp discharge.
I'd suggest getting one of these 18350's and wiring up the external battery pcb I linked from aliexpress

If you did decide to go with tri-cree led setup then you can easily go for the 18500 tcss sells
I honestly think the industry is in the middle of producing better 18500 batteries for high drain apps as the usual to find high amp 18500 seem like they're getting phased out
 

awhite89

Member
The saga continues.... It looks like this is the battery that several people have been using lately, but I'm not sure where to acquire the solder tabs so that I can recharge the cell while it's wired up inside the hilt.


Anyone have any experience with this?
Those only have a discharge current of 3A though, well below the 10A goal

Here's the most common battery contacts used in chassis setups specifically goths

USA

UK
 

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CrueGuyRob

New Member
Those only have a discharge current of 3A though, well below the 10A goal

Here's the most common battery contacts used in chassis setups specifically goths

USA

UK
Copy on the incorrect battery. I found an 8A one that is included in Shtok's list of "Best Batteries for Sabers" - KeepPower 18350 1200mAh Protected Button Top

Regarding the battery tabs, the Goth and Shtok chassis for the crystal chamber setups don't allow for removable batteries, so those tabs won't work. I'm trying to find something I can effectively solder to the top and bottom of the battery and attach wire leads inside the chassis. Looking at some of the videos of builds on YouTube, it looks like some installers have been soldering leads directly to battery terminals (which seems mighty dangerous).
Those only have a discharge current of 3A though, well below the 10A goal

Here's the most common battery contacts used in chassis setups specifically goths

USA

UK
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
Copy on the incorrect battery. I found an 8A one that is included in Shtok's list of "Best Batteries for Sabers" - KeepPower 18350 1200mAh Protected Button Top

Regarding the battery tabs, the Goth and Shtok chassis for the crystal chamber setups don't allow for removable batteries, so those tabs won't work. I'm trying to find something I can effectively solder to the top and bottom of the battery and attach wire leads inside the chassis. Looking at some of the videos of builds on YouTube, it looks like some installers have been soldering leads directly to battery terminals (which seems mighty dangerous).
awhite89 - I think I've solved part of this problem. I found the protected 8A battery that Shtok includes in his list (see above), the only caveat is that it cannot produce a white blade. Since I don't plan on using this one to make a silver blade and will mostly be using blue blades for Obi-Wan's saber, I should be OK. Thanks for all of your help!
 

awhite89

Member
awhite89 - I think I've solved part of this problem. I found the protected 8A battery that Shtok includes in his list (see above), the only caveat is that it cannot produce a white blade. Since I don't plan on using this one to make a silver blade and will mostly be using blue blades for Obi-Wan's saber, I should be OK. Thanks for all of your help!
No need to be modest bud, that's a really good find and completely solves the problem.
Correct, a lot of people in the saber community solder leads to the end of the battery terminals. Unfortunately with how it is right now there aren't too many ways around that.
I'm sure in a couple more months we'll see some better 18500 batteries but I'd say this is the best option for an 18350 high amp battery for the time being.
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
No need to be modest bud, that's a really good find and completely solves the problem.
Correct, a lot of people in the saber community solder leads to the end of the battery terminals. Unfortunately with how it is right now there aren't too many ways around that.
I'm sure in a couple more months we'll see some better 18500 batteries but I'd say this is the best option for an 18350 high amp battery for the time being.
So I'm not crazy! Every saber I've installed so far has used wired protected 21700 or 18650 batteries. Some have been more difficult to cram together than others, but it always felt like the chassis were designed to allow for wired batteries exclusively. I'm also seeing some installers using unprotected 18650s in MK-1s with crystal chambers, but I've not seen that recommended anywhere. Have you attempted it?
 

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