Roman Props MK1 Construction Help

awhite89

Member
So I'm not crazy! Every saber I've installed so far has used wired protected 21700 or 18650 batteries. Some have been more difficult to cram together than others, but it always felt like the chassis were designed to allow for wired batteries exclusively. I'm also seeing some installers using unprotected 18650s in MK-1s with crystal chambers, but I've not seen that recommended anywhere. Have you attempted it?
Unprotected batteries in general is a bad idea for the life of the battery, they need some type of protection so they last a lot longer. For example from google, I'm sure the same applies to 18350 batteries since they're both quality li-ion batteries

Most modern 18650 batteries have a typical cycle life of 300 - 500 (charge, discharge cycles). When in high-amp or high-drain situations, this can decrease substantially to 200 cycles. If you go over the maximum discharge current limit (A) you can decrease the cycle life all the way down to 50 cycles.

Those protection pcbs keep them within a tolerable range to maximize their lifespan
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
Unprotected batteries in general is a bad idea for the life of the battery. They need some type of protection so they last a lot longer, I think the normal life cycle of a battery. For example from google, I'm sure the same applies to 18350 batteries since they're both quality li-ion batteries

Most modern 18650 batteries have a typical cycle life of 300 - 500 (charge, discharge cycles). When in high-amp or high-drain situations, this can decrease substantially to 200 cycles. If you go over the maximum discharge current limit (A) you can decrease the cycle life all the way down to 50 cycles.

Those protection pcbs keep them within a tolerable range to maximize their lifespan
That makes perfect sense and now makes me wonder what other people have been doing with unprotected batteries. I imagine if they are using high capacity batteries (3500 mAh), they are not anticipating the need to recharge the battery very frequently.
 

Derelict Ghost

New Member
I know I’m new here so apologies in advance but is there a site or a forum member that will install electronics in an empty hilt? Couldn’t find a thread for one, but again I am a n00b. P&TY
 

awhite89

Member
That makes perfect sense and now makes me wonder what other people have been doing with unprotected batteries. I imagine if they are using high capacity batteries (3500 mAh), they are not anticipating the need to recharge the battery very frequently.
Only thing I can think of is either
1) they don't care and did the install themselves which would allow them to change it whenever they want if it goes bad or
2) monitor the battery closely and anytime it gets below or close to 3.7V they charge it up.

Of course I'm pretty sure the soundboards nowadays (proffie, cfx and others) only operate on 3.7V so maybe it helps cut power that way as added protection.
However, I would think it best to protect at the source voltage rather than through the board. These boards can be very tricky and sensitive so it's best to protect the board as much as possible. My thought is if something goes wrong you'd rather have a blown battery than a fried board, the difference in between $16 to $50-85
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
Only thing I can think of is either
1) they don't care and did the install themselves which would allow them to change it whenever they want if it goes bad or
2) monitor the battery closely and anytime it gets below or close to 3.7V they charge it up.

Of course I'm pretty sure the soundboards nowadays (proffie, cfx and others) only operate on 3.7V so maybe it helps cut power that way as added protection.
However, I would think it best to protect at the source voltage rather than through the board. These boards can be very tricky and sensitive so it's best to protect the board as much as possible. My thought is if something goes wrong you'd rather have a blown battery than a fried board, the difference in between $16 to $50-85
I agree - much better to ruin the battery than the more expensive soundboards (especially considering you can't find ProffieBoards right now!) At least one of the installs with the unprotected battery was a commission, so hopefully everything works out for them.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
is there any good tutorials online on how to solder leads onto a battery, i can see myself setting my house of fire with this one
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I’ve just now discovered the goth chassis is made to hold a 18500 as well..

I know it’s been said not to go white on a 18350 but does that mean no flash on clash in white as well? Like the flickering lock up as well?

with the 18500 is it safe for the flash on clash and lock up in white? I’m not too concerned about having a white blade, just worried about the white flicker being too much for the 18500
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
The Shtok chassis will also hold an 18500 that fits without impacting the speaker (one of the photos farther back in this thread), but the amperage of the 18500 is the problem. If you look at the screenshot I took of the recommended batteries from Shtok's ProffieBoard guide, you'll find that there are no 18500 batteries included and I expect that is because they're only 3A - fine for a tri-Cree, but not for neopixel strips. The 8A 18350 battery (the one I just purchased) looks to be approved, which is encouraging, but, from the second attachment, you'll see it doesn't have the necessary amperage for white. My expectation is that it's not capable of providing a constant draw at white and that the clash would still work, but I'm not certain. My battery should be arriving today and I'm hoping to finish my installation this weekend. If it turns out the blade won't flash white, I'll let you know immediately.
 

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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Aahhh! All clear now sir, sorry for the confusion. I’m old ;) lol

im going to order those batteries you recommended
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
Aahhh! All clear now sir, sorry for the confusion. I’m old ;) lol

im going to order those batteries you recommended
No need to apologize at all! This was a team exploration and I think we've come to a shared agreement about how to move forward. I, for one, much prefer to bounce ideas off of the people in this thread rather than just guess based on what I've been reading. You'll have to share photos of your hilt once it's installed!
 
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Dumog

Active Member

I found this one. Is this the correct battery?
Just Want to update and confirm that I got my batteries from these guys today. Shipping took about 20 days but I received them in working order.
 

nyjol

New Member
Hi All. I'm about embark on an upgrade of my MK1 to include one of Rudy Pando's crystal chambers and I'm at a bit of an impasse: I cannot find an 18350 battery anywhere and the two chassis options I know to work (Goth-3D and Shtok) both state that an 18350 is recommended. Does anyone know if an 18500 or even an 18650 wired battery would fit without creating problems for a 28mm speaker?
Yes, 18650 will work with a little modification to set a 22mm 3W speaker in Rudy’s chamber itself. I 3D printed a 22mm-24mm adapter to make it work. And the speaker is louder than the 24mm ones, surprisingly.
 

SteuerEule

New Member
Yes, 18650 will work with a little modification to set a 22mm 3W speaker in Rudy’s chamber itself. I 3D printed a 22mm-24mm adapter to make it work. And the speaker is louder than the 24mm ones, surprisingly.
Would you mind posting a picture and maybe share your adapter file?
 

Kevinpac

New Member
I to am new to the Lightsaber building community. was looking to improve my Obi-wan outfit to one that has functioning lightsaber. The 3D printed one I built and weathered came out pretty good but alas it is only plastic. I have Roman prop MK-1 FX weathered hilt on order. Ordered Rudy Pando Crystal Chamber and upgrades metal parts for chamber from Shapeways. Also ordered MK-1 v2 Pando CFX model chassis. I have watched a lot of videos and researched information on parts. The Battery seems to be the biggest question as Chassis holds 18650 but statements from others do note speaker cannot touch battery and due to limited space in crystal chamber a 18500 battery must be used. I plan to use my saber as show piece with KR pixel stick blade. As the time the lightsaber would be on would be limited, would there be any drawback to 18500? Also, if speaker is being placed on chamber side where are you putting the LED for crystal chamber?
 

CrueGuyRob

New Member
I to am new to the Lightsaber building community. was looking to improve my Obi-wan outfit to one that has functioning lightsaber. The 3D printed one I built and weathered came out pretty good but alas it is only plastic. I have Roman prop MK-1 FX weathered hilt on order. Ordered Rudy Pando Crystal Chamber and upgrades metal parts for chamber from Shapeways. Also ordered MK-1 v2 Pando CFX model chassis. I have watched a lot of videos and researched information on parts. The Battery seems to be the biggest question as Chassis holds 18650 but statements from others do note speaker cannot touch battery and due to limited space in crystal chamber a 18500 battery must be used. I plan to use my saber as show piece with KR pixel stick blade. As the time the lightsaber would be on would be limited, would there be any drawback to 18500? Also, if speaker is being placed on chamber side where are you putting the LED for crystal chamber?
18500 batteries aren't good for neopixel blades as their max amperage is too low. You need to find a high drain 18350 and carefully wire leads to the battery terminals. I recently installed an MK-1 with Rudy's crystal chamber just like yours using this exact battery and it's working perfectly: KeepPower 18350 1200mAh Protected Button Top

There's a small amount of space between the bottom of the speaker when it is recessed in the crystal chamber and the bottom of the piece that holds the crystal in place. I was able to get a single neopixel LED in there with 32-gauge wires and I'm not hearing any vibration noise from the speaker. I recommend using a standalone neopixel like the one found here instead of trying to cut one off of a longer strip: 3 piece NeoPixel Accent LEDs Great for Crystal Chamber | Etsy
 

Kevinpac

New Member
18500 batteries aren't good for neopixel blades as their max amperage is too low. You need to find a high drain 18350 and carefully wire leads to the battery terminals. I recently installed an MK-1 with Rudy's crystal chamber just like yours using this exact battery and it's working perfectly: KeepPower 18350 1200mAh Protected Button Top

There's a small amount of space between the bottom of the speaker when it is recessed in the crystal chamber and the bottom of the piece that holds the crystal in place. I was able to get a single neopixel LED in there with 32-gauge wires and I'm not hearing any vibration noise from the speaker. I recommend using a standalone neopixel like the one found here instead of trying to cut one off of a longer strip: 3 piece NeoPixel Accent LEDs Great for Crystal Chamber | Etsy
Thanks, just bought them. Guess I won’t need the 5mm one I already ordered. Next question please. What is the benefit of 11 pin vs. 7 push pin on pixel blade connectors?
 
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CrueGuyRob

New Member
Thanks, just bought them. Guess I won’t need the 5mm one I already ordered. Next question please. What is the benefit of 11 pin vs. 7 push pin on pixel blade connectors?
11 pins spreads out the amp draw better than 7, but if you're only using a two strip blade or the KR Pixel Stick you would be fine with 7. Since you're building an MK-1, be sure to purchase a PCB with short pins.
 

Kevinpac

New Member
11 pins spreads out the amp draw better than 7, but if you're only using a two strip blade or the KR Pixel Stick you would be fine with 7. Since you're building an MK-1, be sure to purchase a PCB with short pins.
Thanks for the help. Roman props just messaged my hilt is being sent. so eager to see it
did you use clear matte sealer , gun oil, or WD40 to protect your MK-1 ?
 

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