Roman Props MK1 Construction Help

CrueGuyRob

New Member
Awesome! I actually haven't used any oils or sealers yet and may not need to where I live. I don't mind a little bit of rust developing over time as I like the idea of it becoming a "desert saber."
 

onderon

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
As a follow-up to this - be aware that much of what Amazon includes in searches for PTFE wire has the same thickness of actual wire, but the insulation is much larger in diameter and can create huge headaches when trying to run multiple wires through narrow hilts and chassis.
PTFE wires should be thinner than normal wire. Amazon have a lot of fake PTFE options (they are not actually PTFE).

is there any good tutorials online on how to solder leads onto a battery, i can see myself setting my house of fire with this one

This is an older post so you might already found the answer but maybe others will need it later: You need to scratch the surface. I used a file but a sandpaper can be also fine. Then applied flux so the lead bond easier. Be aware not to short the parts of the battery, not even with the side, only sand the middle. Video
 
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Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
PTFE wires should be thinner than normal wire. Amazon have a lot of fake PTFE options (they are not actually PTFE).



This is an older post so you might already found the answer but maybe others will need it later: You need to scratch the surface. I used a file but a sandpaper can be also fine. Then applied flux so the lead bond easier. Be aware not to short the parts of the battery, not even with the side, only sand the middle. Video
I did learn how to do this but appreciate the link, I love videos like that are quick and to the point!
 

onderon

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here is my build. I had to use 18350 battery because I needed the space for connectors and high amp connectors are big. I applied connectors on the speaker, the battery, the switches and on the cables connecting the accent leds that light the crystal also the cables that connecting the Shtok connectors, so the hilt can be taken apart without cutting wires or desoldering and the battery is changeable that way as well (need to rewire the battery with the connectors everytime):

IMG_3097.JPG IMG_3222.JPG IMG_3223.JPG IMG_3234.jpeg IMG_3233.jpeg IMG_3238.jpeg IMG_3239.JPG IMG_3240.JPG
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here is my build. I had to use 18350 battery because I needed the space for connectors and high amp connectors are big. I applied connectors on the speaker, the battery, the switches and on the cables connecting the accent leds that light the crystal also the cables that connecting the Shtok connectors, so the hilt can be taken apart without cutting wires or desoldering and the battery is changeable that way as well (need to rewire the battery with the connectors everytime):

View attachment 1534567 View attachment 1534568 View attachment 1534569 View attachment 1534571 View attachment 1534570 View attachment 1534572 View attachment 1534573 View attachment 1534574
Wicked!
 

wudotcom

New Member
I am very confused with all the talk on 18500 not pumping enough amperage.

I think there is a misconception here.

According to saber bay, this 18500 have 15amp max continuous output. Which should be okay.

TCSS 18500 is 1400mah is probably not enough. As most 18500 with 1400mah typically have 3amps max continues output.

compare to the 18350, it only have 1200mah (lower total run time), and it only have 8 to 10 amp max continuous output.


since there isn’t a whole lot of wire battery options, soldering to batteries will be a necessary journey to become a Jedi.

BTW I’m doing a Rudy Pendo V3 with Rudy‘s crystal chamber. the booster section is shorter than the MK1. 18500 will fit With Proffie 2.2
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I am very confused with all the talk on 18500 not pumping enough amperage.

I think there is a misconception here.

According to saber bay, this 18500 have 15amp max continuous output. Which should be okay.

TCSS 18500 is 1400mah is probably not enough. As most 18500 with 1400mah typically have 3amps max continues output.

compare to the 18350, it only have 1200mah (lower total run time), and it only have 8 to 10 amp max continuous output.


since there isn’t a whole lot of wire battery options, soldering to batteries will be a necessary journey to become a Jedi.

BTW I’m doing a Rudy Pendo V3 with Rudy‘s crystal chamber. the booster section is shorter than the MK1. 18500 will fit With Proffie 2.2
It is ok to have a continuous white blade? I was told smaller batteries couldn’t handle the continuous white blade
 

wudotcom

New Member
It is ok to have a continuous white blade? I was told smaller batteries couldn’t handle the continuous white blade
I think it should. Both 2-3 strips is 9.9amp and 14.4 amps

So the 18500 shown by saberbay have 15 amps output max. This gives it enough buffer.

The overall battery performance should be on par with 18650 3120mah 15amps with about 52% runtime reduction (1500/3120).

I just ordered the battery, I’ll keep you guys posted on the build

Btw Halliwax, you are a legend man, your video on the V3 gives me a lot of confidence and ideas on what to do. Thank you sir.
9717BFE3-9EE3-45CE-AB06-F8805C4A0DC7.jpeg
 
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wudotcom

New Member
It is ok to have a continuous white blade? I was told smaller batteries couldn’t handle the continuous white blade
While that is generally true, smaller battery that are common doesn’t have enough continuous output amps.

The key parameter in battery selection are

1. max amp output~ 10 amp continuous discharge minimum
2. Runtime capacity 3000 mah or larger prefer.


4/3 A 3.7 Volt Lithium Ion 18500 Battery (1400 mAh) Amazon.com : 4/3 A 3.7 Volt Lithium Ion 18500 Battery (1400 mAh) : Electronics

For example this one have 1.5amp max discharge output.

However battery of the same size (exp 18xxx) have a few different variant with different capacities that are design for high discharge (output) like the one by saberbay.

Even the 18350 sell by saberbay is the higher performance version. 8amp max vs 10 amp max.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I think it should. Both 2-3 strips is 9.9amp and 14.4 amps

So the 18500 shown by saberbay have 15 amps output max. This gives it enough buffer.

The overall battery performance should be on par with 18650 3120mah 15amps with about 52% runtime reduction (1500/3120).

I just ordered the battery, I’ll keep you guys posted on the build

Btw Halliwax, you are a legend man, your video on the V3 gives me a lot of confidence and ideas on what to do. Thank you sir.
View attachment 1535179
Please keep me posted, I want to install all 3 of my hilts, MK1, Rudy v3 and Roman’s v2. I have modified the goth chassis to fit inside the hilts, but have to use the smaller battery
 

wudotcom

New Member
Please keep me posted, I want to install all 3 of my hilts, MK1, Rudy v3 and Roman’s v2. I have modified the goth chassis to fit inside the hilts, but have to use the smaller battery
Btw I don’t think Goth chassis will work for Rudy V3. The chassis will probably be too long.

I used Shtok Chassis and cut the ends from top and bottom cover to shorten the length
 

gregday

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I picked up a MK1 with a "vintage Graflex clamp" and I'm having a problem with the Shtok clamp switches holder. I can get the holder into the gap all the way, get the bubble strip over it and confirm button clickiness, but the holder is just too wide to actually close the clamp afterwards. Could this be an issue with using a vintage clamp vs. Roman's own clamp? Or am I missing something?
 

gregday

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks for the tip. I needed to turn the lever out a bit. I didn’t realize it even turned! This came to me already built and it was very very tight and I needed a wrench to get it started.
 

imawilliamray

New Member
I am very confused with all the talk on 18500 not pumping enough amperage.

I think there is a misconception here.

According to saber bay, this 18500 have 15amp max continuous output. Which should be okay.

TCSS 18500 is 1400mah is probably not enough. As most 18500 with 1400mah typically have 3amps max continues output.

compare to the 18350, it only have 1200mah (lower total run time), and it only have 8 to 10 amp max continuous output.


since there isn’t a whole lot of wire battery options, soldering to batteries will be a necessary journey to become a Jedi.

BTW I’m doing a Rudy Pendo V3 with Rudy‘s crystal chamber. the booster section is shorter than the MK1. 18500 will fit With Proffie 2.2

This is my first real post here so first of all, thank you all for this excellent community and resource. I've been poking around here for a couple years now and am constantly amazed by all the outstanding work and research I see. I'd be so lost (as opposed to my current mostly lost) without everything I've found here.

So hopefully I can save somebody else from making the same mistakes I made. From contacting both sites, TCSS 18500 1400mAh batteries are 4A and Solo's Hold 18500 2000mAh batteries are 2.8A. This is going to be my first Neopixel build and I unfortunately didn't stumble on this thread until after I had already designed/printed a chassis and purchased a battery. All the planning and research in the world and theres always going to be something you miss when learning something new eh?

Anyway, the Saber Bay 18500 seems like the best option, but I really don't think I'm comfortable trying to solder onto it. I'm coming up short finding any pre-wired batteries with high enough max current though. Are there any pre-wired ones that I'm missing or is everyone just adding their own wires/tabs?
 

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