Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

I think the EL panels are different in this new batch, I believe if you have the new clearer soles then you have the altered EL panel. The panels are definitely different in appearance than all my others, still checking to see if they have actually been changed for the better though. The new panels have a border around them when the old ones didn't. The internal connections are also slightly different, hopefully these changes will make a difference. The soles are way clearer, they are definitely using ones from a newer batch. They wont stay that way for very long if you plan to wear them, but if you keep them inside they should stay clear for a while. There have definitely been some good changes though. I would say now is definitely a good time to buy them.


Also if anyone has a set of spare EL panels for 44 I'll pay $30.

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The weak spot is the same, until they release an EL panel version with connectors on both side they will break unfortunetly.
I wish we could have the contact of the factory to at least just "guide" them into releasing a properly lasting and working version.

This kind of panel is made for wearables (used in Tron Legacy) !
of course it's not cheap but everything that works and last long has a price !
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11908
 
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I rode back in the days that putting a very soft insole makes the light not breaking anymore, thruth or fake ? As i'd need my working pair soon for a photoshooting session.
 
I rode back in the days that putting a very soft insole makes the light not breaking anymore, thruth or fake ? As i'd need my working pair soon for a photoshooting session.

All I can tell you is that I put these insoles in my V3's and they haven't broken yet, though whether that's just luck or actually due to the insole I can't say for certain, but I originally put them in my V2's years ago when I bought them and my lights lasted much longer than everyone else's I heard about, so it seems likely. So, truth maybe?
ultrasport insole.pnginsole base.jpg
 
And tonight the left shoe would not turn on. Hope it is only the battery. Right shoe is bright as. Charger is on route.

Yeh they do that. I've noticed mine went flat just while sitting in the box doing nothing (though it took a couple weeks for it to happen) but everything fine once charged up again. guess there must be a 'current leak' that happens slowly.
 
All I can tell you is that I put these insoles in my V3's and they haven't broken yet, though whether that's just luck or actually due to the insole I can't say for certain, but I originally put them in my V2's years ago when I bought them and my lights lasted much longer than everyone else's I heard about, so it seems likely. So, truth maybe?
View attachment 686492View attachment 686491
Been trying to find something like that in America, would love to use these.
 
I buy them from Kmart - while I know that US and AU Kmarts have a lot of things the other doesn't, it'd be a good bet at least. I note a google search gives me all the AU sites even when I select no country which should default to US, (www.google/ncr)
On another note, I found some cheap kicks with a mag-like toe and speckling on the midsole. Not bad for $15. (clearance) Fair bit darker than the MAGs but still a grey. Greenish-grey, like the HC's.
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IMG_3343.JPG
 
Yeh they do that. I've noticed mine went flat just while sitting in the box doing nothing (though it took a couple weeks for it to happen) but everything fine once charged up again. guess there must be a 'current leak' that happens slowly.

So I know we discussed this ages ago, but do the LEDs die first like our DIY versions or does the whole thing just stop working?
 
The weak spot is the same, until they release an EL panel version with connectors on both side they will break unfortunetly.
I wish we could have the contact of the factory to at least just "guide" them into releasing a properly lasting and working version.

This kind of panel is made for wearables (used in Tron Legacy) !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS4Y5sNOWKo
of course it's not cheap but everything that works and last long has a price !
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11908

That stuff is crazy. Shame you can't cut it.
 
WOW, good job. Masking up is the part I hate the most. But I will have to do that to take my initial impression molds to get the shape right for the master parts when I do my new V3 clears.
 
WOW, good job. Masking up is the part I hate the most. But I will have to do that to take my initial impression molds to get the shape right for the master parts when I do my new V3 clears.
Are you eventually going to do a run of the V3 clears too?
 
Are you eventually going to do a run of the V3 clears too?

Given the cost of silicone, yes, I will be making at least few sets of clears for US10s to cover costs. Looking at these soles, they should actually be easier to make than the scratch build outriggers I made for the V2s. I don't want to pull the soles off my shoes until I have a change over pair ready to go, so I will be making master parts from an initial impression mold first.

I don't know if I want to make all sizes at this time. I know that I can source just soles now, so if I do make other sizes, at least I won't have to buy different size shoes.
 
WOW, good job. Masking up is the part I hate the most. But I will have to do that to take my initial impression molds to get the shape right for the master parts when I do my new V3 clears.

taping of was really hard but in the end worth it if the sole dye touches the midsole it leaves a stain, so if you want to try this tape up with good tape and not the budget one's
 
taping of was really hard but in the end worth it if the sole dye touches the midsole it leaves a stain, so if you want to try this tape up with good tape and not the budget one's

For sure. I just remember how long it took to do each shoe back when I did my first splatter effect using an aqua tinted rubber. I used both tape and a plastic bag over the complete upper to ensure rubber didn't go anywhere it was not supposed to. The difference here was I had to tape up the clear parts, not the parts between them. About an hour each shoe though from memory.
 
For sure. I just remember how long it took to do each shoe back when I did my first splatter effect using an aqua tinted rubber. I used both tape and a plastic bag over the complete upper to ensure rubber didn't go anywhere it was not supposed to. The difference here was I had to tape up the clear parts, not the parts between them. About an hour each shoe though from memory.

These dont took that long i taped up the wole solanand bottom and used my nail to get the tape between the sole and the clear part. Then use my exacto to cut into the groove along the clear part, did that like 3 times so i would say i did like 1 hour for both i think it took me around 2,5 hours in total to dye the soles
 
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