Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

So I have done a bunch of tests on which adhesives to use to attach the new and improved soles. Finally attaching them permanently. The main one I am using is "Freesole" urethane shoe adhesive. Since the soles I make are urethane and the grey is most likely polyurethane, its a strong bond! Also, I am doing them in sections. You need to be careful not to get bubbles under the sole in the adhesive. I also put a little wax mold release around the edges of the grey sole, so when excess glue pushed out I can just easily remove it. The only downside to "Freesole" is the cure time, even with the accelerator its around 2 hours. If anyone has any suggestions on a more instant bonding adhesive, it would save a lot of trouble with clamping them together. (Also the bottom section of the clear looks bad because it hasn't been glued down yet)
 

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WizardBTTF said:
Okay well my newest pair just got here. So far doesn't look like any changes have been made to this pair. Also, the white at the top is dirty and there is some sort of slight stain where it looks like something dripped on one of the shoes. All this of course didn't show up in the QC photos. Ah well they are what they are I guess, I have accepted that they will always have some sort of issues.

EDIT: Was able to clean the junk off the white tops. However, there is still a discolored area from where something dripped...seeing if I can clean that
Click to expand...

https://angelusdirect.com/products/cleaning-combo-kit

Try this stuff or try a Mr. Clean magic eraser. If it wont come off with either of them (in that order too), then it won't with anything else.

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WizardBTTF said:
I also put a little wax mold release around the edges of the grey sole, so when excess glue pushed out I can just easily remove it.
Click to expand...

What an absolutely a brilliant suggestion! Another product I have used to water seal fishing waders is Aquaseal. It is very sticky going on, clear, drys without remaining sticky, flexible, waterproof, and will not become brittle after years of use. I would have little concern using it on the soles to secure the replacement clear sections.
 
WizardBTTF said:
So I have done a bunch of tests on which adhesives to use to attach the new and improved soles. Finally attaching them permanently. The main one I am using is "Freesole" urethane shoe adhesive. Since the soles I make are urethane and the grey is most likely polyurethane, its a strong bond! Also, I am doing them in sections. You need to be careful not to get bubbles under the sole in the adhesive. I also put a little wax mold release around the edges of the grey sole, so when excess glue pushed out I can just easily remove it. The only downside to "Freesole" is the cure time, even with the accelerator its around 2 hours. If anyone has any suggestions on a more instant bonding adhesive, it would save a lot of trouble with clamping them together. (Also the bottom section of the clear looks bad because it hasn't been glued down yet)
Click to expand...

Sounds good. 2 hours is fine. Ideally, you want these to set up for 24 hours before wearing them anyway.

If that release agent can be removed with warm soapy water, I'd also recommend going around the edges with a liquid super glue.

In fact my last pair of clears were stuck with a product called Tarzan's Grip using the "tack" method and then finishes with liquid superglue. Left over night and whilst from time to time, I have had to make a small repair (part of an edge might lift), these soles have been worn for last 11 months.

The tack method is where you apply adhesive to both surfaces, press them together, pull them apart and then time the set up for 1min and then press together again. During this time, you will notice condensation forming on either side. when you press them together after the minuet has expired, they don't move or slide, so you need to quick and precise. If you feel confident in aligning the parts, then you can simply apply it wet and tape of rubber band it together.

When I did mine, I ran the liquid super glue to hold the edges whilst I let the main part cure.
 
WizardBTTF said:
So I have done a bunch of tests on which adhesives to use to attach the new and improved soles. Finally attaching them permanently. The main one I am using is "Freesole" urethane shoe adhesive. Since the soles I make are urethane and the grey is most likely polyurethane, its a strong bond! Also, I am doing them in sections. You need to be careful not to get bubbles under the sole in the adhesive. I also put a little wax mold release around the edges of the grey sole, so when excess glue pushed out I can just easily remove it. The only downside to "Freesole" is the cure time, even with the accelerator its around 2 hours. If anyone has any suggestions on a more instant bonding adhesive, it would save a lot of trouble with clamping them together. (Also the bottom section of the clear looks bad because it hasn't been glued down yet)
Click to expand...
try barge infinity cement apply it on the grey sole and clears heat it up untill the glue bubbles then stick both together
 
Jedifyfe said:
Can we buy extra bottom EL panels so we can fix the shoes that have broken?
Click to expand...

yeach, we will think of selling it .
but would u pls wait for it .

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FreddyTV said:
David is the one that gave us the new domain on his Skype.
Click to expand...

yes , our website changes into : www.sneakerahead.ru

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don jon said:
What is new website?
Click to expand...


www.sneakerahead.ru

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Axel84 said:
Cmon David, make them $300 and we have a deal. Christmas is around the corner, make our wish come true!
Click to expand...

it is already very good price . hope u can understand .

we will think of some festival discount . thx for your advice .
 
cavx said:
Sounds good. 2 hours is fine. Ideally, you want these to set up for 24 hours before wearing them anyway.
If that release agent can be removed with warm soapy water, I'd also recommend going around the edges with a liquid super glue.
In fact my last pair of clears were stuck with a product called Tarzan's Grip using the "tack" method and then finishes with liquid superglue. Left over night and whilst from time to time, I have had to make a small repair (part of an edge might lift), these soles have been worn for last 11 months.
The tack method is where you apply adhesive to both surfaces, press them together, pull them apart and then time the set up for 1min and then press together again. During this time, you will notice condensation forming on either side. when you press them together after the minuet has expired, they don't move or slide, so you need to quick and precise. If you feel confident in aligning the parts, then you can simply apply it wet and tape of rubber band it together.

When I did mine, I ran the liquid super glue to hold the edges whilst I let the main part cure.
Click to expand...

I can confirm the superglue confirmed with another clear glue works well (I used Shoe Goo) so while that was setting the superglue held it in place - but be careful to only apply small amounts of superglue, as it won't flex much and can give a frosty effect on the clears.
 
Well, good that they finally slimmed the toe, but price is still a bit high for a V2

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
airair wow, that is a great difference ! But as cavx said it is too expensive for a V2 that would need some modifications (I would modify the whole collar and the tongue then the straps)
But that is way better for not having to get on the toebox modification as it is the most dangerous one !
@Davidjones when will you sell some non electronics versions ? These won't break and you won't have to deal with customs fee and returned shoes etc...
 
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