Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)
- Thread starter lukebrynycz
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- back to the future
Not Happy with result. Red Leds are too dim ( used 150 ohm resistor) green and yellow are ok ( 100 ohms) but had to solder 1 resister per. Led...so it is very messed up on backside..not sure I can glue cap back on due to limited space. Also the strap EL is barely visible....and soles make light look green ish......
Took me all day....sigh...what to do??? Of course not all connections are not soldered, some just twisted by finger. I know that ain't the best, but had to check.
Took me all day....sigh...what to do??? Of course not all connections are not soldered, some just twisted by finger. I know that ain't the best, but had to check.
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Cobrakai22
Active Member
Looks great man!
any insight on how you trimmed it to fit?
any insight on how you trimmed it to fit?
cavx
Master Member
TK 4080, would you not want the higher resistance on the green? Higher the resistance, less power, so give changing them around a go.
Amazing transformation.
I took a look at putting a pair of on my US8s and it looks like you need to align the center dip on the sole with the center dip on the shoe (if that makes sense) and trim the front and back way back. It looks like you would taking about 1/2" off the front and over 1/4" off the back. Interestingly enough, the little wings on the instep actually fit with no trimming. Then like with the US9.5s, you will have to flex the sole slightly to fit on the cut out on the base.
I will suggest using a Dremil (my tool is not Dremil branded and cost $50 at ALDI) or similar tool with an ceramic bit, not an emery bit. The ceramic bits grind down the rubber without ripping it. Emery bits tend to bit in and clog too fast. The swarf that comes off is white and looks like it would be messy, but it clumps and does not stick.
For fitting these to US8 or US8.5, You might even want to mark a rough cut line first for the front. I would just grind the rear.
And use clear Shoe Goo as it clear, flexible and made for shoes.
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Ok so the first shoe I trimmed the front but I regret doing that becuase I had to work a lot harder to get it to look good but the other shoe I trimmed the back and it fit perfect I'll post more pics when I get home I just left for work
Thanks cavx, maybe Ill try that.
Right now Just wishing i hadnt torn it all apart.. at least before the worked, and was modded with El straps.
Can read some 500 pages back, some Just painted the original mounted clear LEDs...much easier.
Cant seem to get enough power in 3,7V. It is terribly low in glow, and Logo EL is barely visible (The light) however when i put a 9V setup on it they look great..
Maybe those LED i soldered does something to The power supply to The EL soles and strap.? Is a 2 Circuit setup The most reliable? 1 for LEDs and 1 for EL?
Right now Just wishing i hadnt torn it all apart.. at least before the worked, and was modded with El straps.
Can read some 500 pages back, some Just painted the original mounted clear LEDs...much easier.
Cant seem to get enough power in 3,7V. It is terribly low in glow, and Logo EL is barely visible (The light) however when i put a 9V setup on it they look great..
Maybe those LED i soldered does something to The power supply to The EL soles and strap.? Is a 2 Circuit setup The most reliable? 1 for LEDs and 1 for EL?
Vormz
Sr Member
Please tell us if it's efficient!
airair
Sr Member
I think the leds i got were all 1.8v and the greens slightly higher.
If running a normal setup of 9v in series, even then is there no need for resistors?
airair
Sr Member
I would check the voltage of the leds you have. Ask the place you bought them from. Each colour might have different voltages.
You shouldn't really be having an issue with the LEDs not lighting up.
I've run multiple 3v setups which use a 2 x AAA battery (1.5v x 2 or 1.2v nimh x 2) setup without any issues. All the LEDs are in parallel.
Ive also used the same LEDs on 9v setups except using different resistors. Never had any issues.
Done more than 40 pairs and not really had any problems with the LEDs.
I would make sure you know exactly the voltage of the leds first, then workout out which resistors you need if using a 3.7v battery to power it.
airair
Sr Member
3.7v is more than enough to power everything, the LEDs and the EL film in both straps and soles.
I've used 2 x AAA nimh rechargeables (2 x 1.2v = 2.4v) on many 3v setups and those are enough to power everything, so a 3.7v should easily be doing it.
Your issue may be the resistors you are using.
How are you soldering the LEDs? In Parallel?
i would use an online resistor calculator to make sure you are using the correct resistors.
Firstly, find out the exact voltage, voltage drop and mah of the LEDs you have.
This site here is useful: http://ledcalc.com/
cavx
Master Member
If running a 9V system, I would think you would use higher voltage LEDs?
I like 3V. Cheap and easy to run.
airair
Sr Member
If you use the coin battery one, im sure you can solder new wires to the switch area i think.
I think thats what cloneprops did way back.
I haven't really tried it with the coin cell ones yet, as i use the mini rectangle 3v ones and the 9v ones.
I think i might have a few 3v ones left.
Most of the ones i have are 9v ones.
