New Elstree Studio documentary with discarded Graflex.
- Thread starter Skelatorious
- Start date
R5D4
Active Member
Have you tried fitting the unbeveled bubble strip yet and compare it to the beveled bubble strip?
Yes. With the clamp configured as it is in the toe pic (no lever washer, tip of screw peeking out of the sidebar), the unbeveled strip WILL NOT FIT in the clamp.
I see only two possibilities: The hero strip was beveled (just as the Elstree saber’s is, although the Elstree saber’s lever is not screwed in as far as the hero’s, so the beveled edges don’t sit very far under the clamp rails), or they shaved down the sides of the strip (but retained the 90-degree angles, with no beveling) so it could just barely squeeze between the clamp rails.
As far as I’m concerned, the hero must have had a beveled bubblestrip like the Elstree. The Elstree’s strip MIGHT have gotten away with fitting in the clamp without the beveling, since, as noted, the clamp on the Elstree isn’t as tightly screwed together, and therefore has a bit more wiggle-room. But, from what I gather after fiddling with my replica, beveling the hero bubblestrip would have been essential in order to get it to fit in the clamp. The clamp rails are screwed too close together to allow the strip to slide in without some kind of shaving down being done beforehand.
So...the rivet mystery is pretty much locked down. I’ll give it a fresh look, when I get a chance. Still not sure about the sizes. And I think the bubblestrip should be assumed as beveled, unless more data presents itself.
That leaves one final unicorn (assuming that TGS will be offering those stamped sidebars, the final part needed for an accurate hero): The orientation of the flash’s endcap stamping. There HAS to be a way to crack it.
That leaves one final unicorn (assuming that TGS will be offering those stamped sidebars, the final part needed for an accurate hero): The orientation of the flash’s endcap stamping. There HAS to be a way to crack it.
R5D4
Active Member
We will probably never know the stamping orientation on the end cap. But I am almost positive the bottom tube is a Folmer Graflex without the patient number.
TheUnchosenOne
Active Member
Given how interchangeable the parts are, I'd say any degree of certainty without visual evidence is pretty premature
agreed. There have been exceptions to every "rule" that has been posted in terms of consistency of what parts went with what version. Some are mix matches that have happened years later, but even in the late 70's it was years later from when they were first built so there's no telling whether even the screen used ones had matching tops/bottoms, didn't have pins replaced, swapped buttons, a different glass eye, etc.
Having said that, I have a Folmer WITH patent so I'm going to pretend that's what the real one is. LOL
That way when I'm proven to be right, and mine just so happens to have the stamp perfectly aligned, I can sell it off for over $5k.
Having said that, I have a Folmer WITH patent so I'm going to pretend that's what the real one is. LOL
That way when I'm proven to be right, and mine just so happens to have the stamp perfectly aligned, I can sell it off for over $5k.
I think it would be worth it for parts that are shaped differently (glass eyes, type of lip on the bottom of the can, shape of the pins) to nail them down for movie accuracy - trent is right though, these are vintage pieces of equipment that were readily swapped around by photographers and the prop dept years later. The coins are dropped into the bottom can and rolled, everything screws together and unscrews very easily, and the chances you'll find one to match the exact (possibly mismatched) flash unit are very slim and I might even say a fools errand.
I'll reiterate, I actually quite like the idea of nailing down the type of flash parts used. I now see the bottom can lip, glass eye differences, etc. that I didn't a few years ago and I get it. If that lines up with Folmer/GraflexInc dates for the bottom can then lets go for it!
I'll reiterate, I actually quite like the idea of nailing down the type of flash parts used. I now see the bottom can lip, glass eye differences, etc. that I didn't a few years ago and I get it. If that lines up with Folmer/GraflexInc dates for the bottom can then lets go for it!
Just in case any of you who might have missed it: I started a related thread about the grip alignment of the ANH hero saber:
www.therpf.com
Roy
WannaWanga ANH Graflex Configuration
Hi, Since the discovery of Elstree saber, the discovery of the 4 mystery rivets on the bottom of the ANH Graflex hero saber and the resulting confirmation that the promo images saber being the hero saber, I've been asked by several members to determine the accurate position of the grips, D-ring...
www.therpf.com
Roy
How difficult would it be to "unroll" that and make a super accurate grip spacing guide??
Might that rolled bottom lip provide evidence as to which model of endcap the hero has? I don’t recall that being discussed in this thread.
I can do that.
I would be very interested in this as well.
JunkSabers1138
Sr Member
Looks like I'm very L&G as usual.
I come back after a brief hiatus and now there's ANOTHER set of rivets that were hiding in plain sight?
It's like every time I think I'm about to drop $$$ on a graflex and pay for a professional install of all current and up to date greeblies and details, we discover something new
I wonder what ELSE we have yet to find?
Good work to everyone so far !
I come back after a brief hiatus and now there's ANOTHER set of rivets that were hiding in plain sight?
It's like every time I think I'm about to drop $$$ on a graflex and pay for a professional install of all current and up to date greeblies and details, we discover something new
I wonder what ELSE we have yet to find?
Good work to everyone so far !
Similar threads
