New 10th Doctor Sonic Screwdriver Universal Remote

That episode will probably have the Aztec being used in it. The struts on the emitter head are wider and more prominent on it.

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Try Voyage of the Damned where he pops the champagne cork.

And I'll check that one, that's actually one of my favorite episides

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Also, the exact emitter head on the prop TWC scanned was IDed somewhere in this thread as originally being part of an Aztec sonic in season 3. It gets a good close-up in "Human Nature" when Martha brings Ten his sonic and challenges him to identify it.
 
The Aztec head wasn't used on the Intermediate or A and B props. It's another head entirely. The Aztec's have clearly defined wider struts and lack the strut undercuts you see on the Intermediate and A and B props. The builder of the Aztecs has confirmed this. And the Aztec's still exist as they were seen on screen and are in private hands. One being Julie Gardner.
 
The Aztec head wasn't used on the Intermediate or A and B props. It's another head. The Aztec's have clearly defined wider struts and lack the strut undercuts you see on the Intermediate and A and B props. The builder of the Aztecs has confirmed this.

Also, the exact emitter head on the prop TWC scanned was IDed somewhere in this thread as originally being part of an Aztec sonic in season 3. It gets a good close-up in "Human Nature" when Martha brings Ten his sonic and challenges him to identify it.

New question, where do you guys find this info other than this thread?

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The Aztec head wasn't used on the Intermediate or A and B props. It's another head entirely. The Aztec's have clearly defined wider struts and lack the strut undercuts you see on the Intermediate and A and B props. The builder of the Aztecs has confirmed this. And the Aztec's still exist as they were seen on screen and are in private hands. One being Julie Gardner.

Hmm. That's not what people were saying earlier in the thread. Here's the posts in question. It looks like the head could be the same to me -- the little triangular gouges on the struts (which TWC omitted from the replica) match.
 
New question, where do you guys find this info other than this thread?

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I collect screen used props and know quite a few people connected to the production as well as studio contacts. I've been compiling pictures of the sonics off screen and production material connected with them since 2009.
 
I collect screen used props and know quite a few people connected to the production as well as studio contacts. I've been compiling pictures of the sonics off screen and production material connected with them since 2009.

That's actually really awesome.

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Hmm. That's not what people were saying earlier in the thread. Here's the posts in question. It looks like the head could be the same to me -- the little triangular gouges on the struts (which TWC omitted from the replica) match.

I know it's the same head used on Tennant's A prop that was also on the Intermediate, but it's not an Aztec head. The Aztec's are still in one piece and out there. The struts on the Intermediate and A and B props are much thinner than the Aztec's. The original maker of the Aztec sonics has confirmed this and we know where the two Aztec's are right now. I am still trying to buy the second one as it is in private hands and have examined it closely compared to my replica. The replica I have was made from the same CAD files originally used.
 
Side topic for anybody else willing to help, on my sonic the emitter pops off of the tubing slightly but it scares me because it looks like if I pull it it'll pop off. Is there any way of fixing it?

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darthriley - I had the same issue with mine so I contacted the wand company and this is their response:

"There are some long hooks on the end of the clear plastic tube extending up into the ball-shaped section just below the head, so it definitely won't fall off, but it sounds like the internal aluminium features in this region weren't machined as accurately as they should have been.

If the emitter head can be made straight but then pops out again from the clear plastic tube, then applying a tiny drop of super glue into the gap between the emitter head and the clear tube (before pushing them together) should fix it firmly in place. If you want to try supergluing it yourself, you will probably need to pull the head away from the clear plastic a little further to create a big enough gap to get a drop of superglue in there without it going onto the outside surface of the plastic - my favoured method is to put a drop of superglue onto one side of a scalpel blade, then lower the blade carefully into the gap (with the clean, un-glued side of the blade facing towards the clear plastic). Don't worry if your gluing attempt doesn't work out - I'll still be happy to repair or replace it for you if that happens."

So it seems as if this is probably a common issue, but they are willing to repair/replace it if you ask them.
 
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@darthriley - I had the same issue with mine so I contacted the wand company and this is their response:

"There are some long hooks on the end of the clear plastic tube extending up into the ball-shaped section just below the head, so it definitely won't fall off, but it sounds like the internal aluminium features in this region weren't machined as accurately as they should have been.

If the emitter head can be made straight but then pops out again from the clear plastic tube, then applying a tiny drop of super glue into the gap between the emitter head and the clear tube (before pushing them together) should fix it firmly in place. If you want to try supergluing it yourself, you will probably need to pull the head away from the clear plastic a little further to create a big enough gap to get a drop of superglue in there without it going onto the outside surface of the plastic - my favoured method is to put a drop of superglue onto one side of a scalpel blade, then lower the blade carefully into the gap (with the clean, un-glued side of the blade facing towards the clear plastic). Don't worry if your gluing attempt doesn't work out - I'll still be happy to repair or replace it for you if that happens."

So it seems as if this is probably a common issue, but they are willing to repair/replace it if you ask them.

So its not going to pop off? That's a big relief. I think I'll try the super glue thing. Thanks for the help.

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New problem I found. The emitter bulb on mine actually spins, it feels like if I mess with it a lot it will come off, anybody else have that?

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Hi Guys ,

Was searching on something iv noticed on my one of these great itmes and this thread popped up , iv noticed with my sonic that the end dosnt seem to click into place and there is a bit of play when fully extended i.e the whole top and button still freely move up and down about 5mm. Im trying to get a video to upload to make it clearer but just wondered if this is the same on them all or if i shoud make contact with the supplier.

Thanks
 
Hi Guys ,

Was searching on something iv noticed on my one of these great itmes and this thread popped up , iv noticed with my sonic that the end dosnt seem to click into place and there is a bit of play when fully extended i.e the whole top and button still freely move up and down about 5mm. Im trying to get a video to upload to make it clearer but just wondered if this is the same on them all or if i shoud make contact with the supplier.

Thanks

So are you saying when you get past the lock on the slider it still moves up and down right?

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So are you saying when you get past the lock on the slider it still moves up and down right?

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Because im pretty sure thats because the bump that locks the slider in place on top isn't positioned close enough to hold it completely up. But I normally just hold my thumb on the slider anyways.
 
Mine does the same thing, doesnt stay fully extended, it slides down a bit before hitting the nub and stopping. In the first photo below you can see it doesnt stay extended fully, the button slides down a bit and you can see the metal space in the gap, which is usually covered by the button when extended. Its worth noting that I had another one of these that did not have this issue, this is an exchange. Compared to my first one, the slider near the bottom is very tight and as it gets closer and past the nub is is much loser. My other one was the opposite.

Where it should be:
11596045643_0a8457c4fb_z.jpg


Where it slides down to with a slight shake
11596045893_69d7ba742e_z.jpg


Also is anyone's inner tube this uneven?
11596049973_135921b1d2_c.jpg


Also I had a glass dome base laser engraved for display :)

11595844605_295778a950_c.jpg

11596162444_98edebfa02_c.jpg

11595842815_d948a0d869_c.jpg

11596159944_1b26f83fd5_c.jpg
 
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So are you saying when you get past the lock on the slider it still moves up and down right?

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Yeah thats it , i see what you mean about the plastic notch that is supposed to hold it , real shame as it rattles and affects the gestures when in use , finally managed to get the video uploaded -

Wand company 10th Doctor sonic - loose slider ? - YouTube

That display case looks great
 
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