My PKD Bladerunner pistol build.

Hmm. If it seems like it’s setting but very slowly, I’d walk away from it for a day and come back fresh.
If it hasn’t set at all, try to get it out of there clean the area up and then walk away for a day and come back fresh.
I know what it’s like to chase a problem and get caught going down the rabbit hole.
 
Hmm. If it seems like it’s setting but very slowly, I’d walk away from it for a day and come back fresh.
If it hasn’t set at all, try to get it out of there clean the area up and then walk away for a day and come back fresh.
I know what it’s like to chase a problem and get caught going down the rabbit hole.
Thank you, my grasp exceeds my reach sometime thinking my first solution is the right solution but executing my ideas is a whole other matter.
 
Thank you, my grasp exceeds my reach sometime thinking my first solution is the right solution but executing my ideas is a whole other matter.
If it's any consolation, when I use JBWeld I often leave it overnight. I find it takes at least 12 hours to come to even touch hardness sometimes, let alone full cure. It all depends on temperature and humidity and other factors. As robotprops says, I'd check it in the morning!
 
If it's any consolation, when I use JBWeld I often leave it overnight. I find it takes at least 12 hours to come to even touch hardness sometimes, let alone full cure. It all depends on temperature and humidity and other factors. As robotprops says, I'd check it in the morning!
Cheers guys thanks for moral support.
 
Fill and re-drill/tap the holes with JB Weld. NOT JB KwikWeld—the usual JB Weld, which takes 24 hours to set. It’s a longer cure time, but a much stronger result. KwikWeld is good for simple jobs done in a short amount of time, but, for strength and structural integrity at stress points, regular JB is the way to go.

Also use regular JB to secure any bolts, and make sure that both the bolts and the resin are scuffed up with files or sandpaper in order to give the epoxy something to bite into.
 
Fill and re-drill/tap the holes with JB Weld. NOT JB KwikWeld—the usual JB Weld, which takes 24 hours to set. It’s a longer cure time, but a much stronger result. KwikWeld is good for simple jobs done in a short amount of time, but, for strength and structural integrity at stress points, regular JB is the way to go.

Also use regular JB to secure any bolts, and make sure that both the bolts and the resin are scuffed up with files or sandpaper in order to give the epoxy something to bite into.
Cheers for the tips
 
Moving along...been working on sanding and priming various parts to prepare them for paint. Still needs work in some spots.

Meanwhile, I’m researching paints and colors. Leaning toward Alclad metallics, but it’s difficult to lock down what colors to go for. Hard to tell how blued the gun was during filming, that sort of thing.

Stainless Steel looks to be a decent match for the receiver, and maybe with a bit of Gunmetal sprayed over that?

I also found this color chart on the propsummit forums. Does this look about right? Any color suggestions from the experts?

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Looks good. The grip frame and the bottom of the butt cap should be black too and then it’s up to you how much aging you want to do.
 
Well, I ordered the metal sight, metal knobs, and acrylic display stand from TipTop. Since I’m going with the slotted screw instead of the Weaver knob, I may as well do the binding post in metal, too. And the metal sight just makes me feel more comfortable. The resin version still looks a little crooked, and a hairline crack has developed from my attempting to heat and bend it back into shape. I’d rather not constantly be worrying about it snapping or warping, despite my reinforcing it with bass rod.

I also ordered a Deckard ID badge to complete the display. Maybe I’ll seek out an origami unicorn, too. We’ll see.
 
I also got a few metal upgraded parts from TipTop, triggers, hammers, weaver nob, hammer and a few other bits and bobs not the screw driver scope though.
I also got their acrylic display stand and a plaque from etsy from the USA. I have put together a wallet of sorts although I have a Bladerunner police badge in it.
 

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Hey Gregatron

Looks like the colour breakdown on the graphics you have tie in pretty closely with what I was considering.

I'm also going to try Alclad, but I'm concerned the "Stainless Steel" might be too bright.

I have a bottle of "Steel" which should do for colour B in your graphics. It's darker than the Stainless and should replicate the bare metal that the blueing has been stripped from.
 
Ordered some more accurate replacement screws—a button head to replace the cap head on the front of the trigger guard, and three slotted heads to replace the grub screws on the top of the receiver.

Meanwhile, I gave most of the parts a coat of filler primer. Waiting to receive the mainspring before I can modify and prime the inner grip frame. I also cut the small rectangular slot into the rear of the front trigger, and found some 7/16” styrene tube to enlarge the diameter of the vertical tube connecting the barrel and the clip housing.
 
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I really need to give a huge shout out to stonehavensteve. He sold me some parts but sneaked in extra special parts.
A huge surprise was a set of shell casings and bullet tips.
Totally awesome and generous gift.
Thank you buddy
 

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Well, I ordered the metal sight, metal knobs, and acrylic display stand from TipTop. Since I’m going with the slotted screw instead of the Weaver knob, I may as well do the binding post in metal, too. And the metal sight just makes me feel more comfortable. The resin version still looks a little crooked, and a hairline crack has developed from my attempting to heat and bend it back into shape. I’d rather not constantly be worrying about it snapping or warping, despite my reinforcing it with bass rod.

I also ordered a Deckard ID badge to complete the display. Maybe I’ll seek out an origami unicorn, too. We’ll see.
It’s a slippery slope :)
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