Luke's Lightsaber Mando series finale.

To answer your question, it has been discussed. But as we all know, looks can be deceiving and i trust the experts involved made the right decisions with the Intel they had before venturing further with the project.
Well if you have seen the images I have seen... It would be worthy of a discussion.
 
Well if you have seen the images I have seen... It would be worthy of a discussion.
Not trying to be argumentative...just a question. have you gone through this thread at all and looked at the pictures and read the input? I may be wrong but i don't remember you posting pictures that "you have seen" on this thread. If so, i stand corrected. Feel free to post your pictures for everyone to see.
 
Not trying to be argumentative...just a question. have you gone through this thread at all and looked at the pictures and read the input? I may be wrong but i don't remember you posting pictures that "you have seen" on this thread. If so, i stand corrected. Feel free to post your pictures for everyone to see.

Not on your life. I have the great pleasure of getting to see rare images most people do not get to see and want to keep seeing such images in the future. It's not worth me being proven right to lose that trust. But as a helpful push to fans of this hilt, those fans might want to dig a little deeper.

if you want to know what I saw so that you know what you are looking for in your own research...

The switch on the prop clearly appears to be black painted/coated metal as the exposed edges are worn away exposing the metal. Of course I just saw images and did not handle the actual prop. So there is the possibility that the part is plastic with faux weathering on the edges but I am going to lean toward the "If it quacks like a duck..." side of what I am seeing.

I did not have the privilege of seeing images of the stunt so I can not speak to that.
 
Chris did a comparison of my new Rescuer kit set against a Rylo reveal in his collection.
Thought you guys might be interested in seeing how they stack up.
!!! To be clear. I don't own a Rylo. My measurements for this run were based on scaling from photos.

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Regardless of whether a Rylo was or wasn't used on screen or as the inspiration for the screen used prop, I find it remarkable how similar the dimensions are between yours and the Rylo. It absolutely amazes me at what some of you guys are able to do with just a few pictures and your computer screen.
 
Regardless of whether a Rylo was or wasn't used on screen or as the inspiration for the screen used prop, I find it remarkable how similar the dimensions are between yours and the Rylo. It absolutely amazes me at what some of you guys are able to do with just a few pictures and your computer screen.
He’s a wizard with this stuff, I wish I had the talent to do this digital stuff
 
Well I think we all agree the buttons are black coated aluminum.
No changes in material there since Yuma ;)
BRRogers, Who is this guy?!?
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Dang was hoping that the V2s were the finished ones lol. And had no idea if the spinning emitter could have electronics installed. Now its sold out. Oh well.
 
Dang was hoping that the V2s were the finished ones lol. And had no idea if the spinning emitter could have electronics installed. Now its sold out. Oh well.
Those are legendary.. the first replicas to spin an keep FX capabilities.. Starkiller is a engineering genius
 
The starkiller BoBF pommels are here! I got to examine them and install a few yesterday.

Totally blow away at the different it makes

Subscribe to my channel, new video coming out Friday, you don’t want to be late to this party!!
Mine came today, they are amazing. I just finished weathering one of mine, it looks great on the TXQ BOBF saber.
 

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How did you go about weathering yours? Just curious on process that you used. I’m concerned with the acid eating through the threads.
I understand your concern, here is how I did it. I started with the three pieces separate. I used a heavy duty scrub pad (SOS pad) on all of the exposed surfaces, not the threads or inside of the parts. I did it in a the direction I wanted the final “grain” to look. One it was good and scratched up, I lightly went over it with 0000 steel wool the exact same way. Next, I cleaned all of the threads with a brass brush, very well! Then I cleaned the part with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Once cleaned, I greased the threads, and assembled the parts.

I then used aluminum black (A14) on the exposed surfaces. I brushed it on, conservatively, with the exposed threads facing down on the table, starting at the top and working down. I do not let it pool any where, just brushing a thin layer. Let it sit for about 5 mins, then I rinse with water and dry.

I then disassemble the pommel and repeat the original steps, getting it to the final “look” with the steel wool, then I “buff” the whole thing with a light duty scrub pad.

I then make sure the threads are clean and greased, reassemble and DONE.

I hope that helps you!
 
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