Limited Run Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 37)

Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

That's the way to do it, @mburkit!

thd9791 said:
Ah, I see. I think on the original prop, the gaffers tape was only to stop rotation?
Click to expand...

More than likely. I assume the original had the motor rig and stuff in it to keep the thing from popping off but in the V2 thread proper, Brandon says the motor isn't in the saber anymore so something is keeping it on but the tape could still be pulling double duty, 30 years after filming. Only one person in the world would know the answer to that.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Really enjoying seeing people's finished saber pictures :)

I've barely had time to look at mine, not even done a test fit yet but here's what I'm wondering,

- Are people just bending out their D-Ring to fit or cutting a bit out of the Middle?

- Are most people drilling the extra hole in the pommel section for the Mystery chunk/screw, I'm planning to do this & maybe even put a filister screw in there even though I know that's wrong now I always kinda liked the detail (until I find something better)

- should the pommel be able to rotate - guess this Would also move the position of the mystery chunk & D-ring around relative to the cone position

- is anyone going to be painting the windvane brass under the black (like the MR)? - I'm not convinced on that detail,

I'm sure I'll figure out the rod & bearing thing, haven't tried yet, I want mine to stay together (but still be able to be taken apart if that makes sense) not sure if I want to add the tape on the neck yet

- oh and are you doing any prep to the metal before painting? (Any sanding/wire wool acetone etc)
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

I just bent open and then bent closed the D Ring. I can see though that there is about 1/8" gap left between the ends using this method. My plan is to remove the D Ring and then remove about 1/16" from each end and then put it back on.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

thd9791 said:
Well, how to fix the bearing in place, and to what. I think Dan mentioned gluing the bearing to the rod (not sure he best adhesive for this) and measuring enough length for it to reach up to the emitter, which is a little confusing for me. it feels like the bearing would be of any use unless the outside were fixed to something too. We haven't started discussing that, so I figured I'd wait.
Click to expand...

I think I get it from the description. Couldn't test it yet. I'm still waiting for the V2 (am not so lucky to live in the US).

What about to cutting a thread on the part of the rod which goes in the body. So you could screw a nut from the inside of the body.
The emitter wouldn't fall of with the bearing and you could disassemble it by unscrewing the rod still fastened to the emitter.

Don't know if it would work but I think it would be a nice solution for an easier assemble.

Maybe @Anakin Starkiller could consider something like this for his second run ;)
 
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Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Country Paul said:
I've barely had time to look at mine, not even done a test fit yet but here's what I'm wondering,

- Are people just bending out their D-Ring to fit or cutting a bit out of the Middle?

- Are most people drilling the extra hole in the pommel section for the Mystery chunk/screw, I'm planning to do this & maybe even put a filister screw in there even though I know that's wrong now I always kinda liked the detail (until I find something better)

- should the pommel be able to rotate - guess this Would also move the position of the mystery chunk & D-ring around relative to the cone position

- is anyone going to be painting the windvane brass under the black (like the MR)? - I'm not convinced on that detail,

I'm sure I'll figure out the rod & bearing thing, haven't tried yet, I want mine to stay together (but still be able to be taken apart if that makes sense) not sure if I want to add the tape on the neck yet

- oh and are you doing any prep to the metal before painting? (Any sanding/wire wool acetone etc)
Click to expand...


- I bent mine to fit. Dunno how else to do it but I used some needle-nose pliers and it looks like it was chewed up by a mechanical dog after I was done with it. Considering the nature of how beat up my lightsaber's become, it actually suits it quite well.

- I will be doing the extra hole in the pommel for the mystery chunk. I grew fond of the fillister screw myself on Russ' run of V2's but if I've gone this far with it, I might as well take it to that next step.

- I guess it's all to taste but I don't want my pommel to move. I barely sanded the edge of the lip down so I would still get a nice and snug fit when I pieced it together.

- No. Never liked that detail. I take my V2's like my tea: black.

- No prepping for paint on my end. Just slapped it on bareback.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

I think I already know the answer being no, but thought I'd ask and see if another run will ever be made on this?
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

mburkit said:
Horray! All painted up. I am so glad I got in on this run. Thanks Anakin Starkiller!

[URL]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/mburkit/Star%20Wars/Anakin%20Starkiller%20V2/_DSC3801_zpsu2wmsdgq.jpg[/URL]

[URL]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/mburkit/Star%20Wars/Anakin%20Starkiller%20V2/_DSC3804_zps4akrpa1e.jpg[/URL]

[URL]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/mburkit/Star%20Wars/Anakin%20Starkiller%20V2/_DSC3805_zpsbjb26nmg.jpg[/URL]

[URL]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/mburkit/Star%20Wars/Anakin%20Starkiller%20V2/_DSC3806_zpsj8itnd8k.jpg[/URL]

[URL]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h279/mburkit/Star%20Wars/Anakin%20Starkiller%20V2/_DSC3807_zpsrfqebc8o.jpg[/URL]

Okay, I'm done posting photos. Anyway, awesome run and awesome prop added to my collection!
Click to expand...

WOW...wish my saber will come out half as good as yours...love the weathering

Markus
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Country Paul said:
Really enjoying seeing people's finished saber pictures :)

I've barely had time to look at mine, not even done a test fit yet but here's what I'm wondering,

- Are people just bending out their D-Ring to fit or cutting a bit out of the Middle?

- Are most people drilling the extra hole in the pommel section for the Mystery chunk/screw, I'm planning to do this & maybe even put a filister screw in there even though I know that's wrong now I always kinda liked the detail (until I find something better)

- should the pommel be able to rotate - guess this Would also move the position of the mystery chunk & D-ring around relative to the cone position

- is anyone going to be painting the windvane brass under the black (like the MR)? - I'm not convinced on that detail,

I'm sure I'll figure out the rod & bearing thing, haven't tried yet, I want mine to stay together (but still be able to be taken apart if that makes sense) not sure if I want to add the tape on the neck yet

- oh and are you doing any prep to the metal before painting? (Any sanding/wire wool acetone etc)
Click to expand...

- I used two adjustable wrenches/spanners to bend the D ring (no marks left with these), I didn't bend it out (since the D curve changes when you do that), but up and down. Then put one end inside the pommel and took it back to its original shape. No gap left between ends.

- Not drilling a hole yet, until I have a clearer idea of what the mystery chunk is.

- The rotation of the pommel is up to you and easy to adjust. Just put more tension on the screw to make it tight and fix. Personally I like rotation with some tension (not loose).

- Only used black. I think MR was mistaken by adding brass. Also no tape added for mine. I want it to be like in the movie, not like in Its current state.

- I used metal primer before black paint. Should have sanded first the flat surfaces (emitter and back end).
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

- For my D-Ring, I just used two sets of pliers and bent the ring out, slid it into the pommel and bent them back. Just needed a little muscle, but that's about it.

- I drilled a pilot hole for my "mystery chunk". I'm either gonna put a #10-32 Fillster head bolt there or I found a company that makes #10 square head set screws that I contacted to see how I can get a hold of one. I think that would work well because its head is square and I'm fine with that size bolt (#10). We'll see if they ever get back to me. I'd rather do that then jam a piece of scrap aluminum in a whole.

- I have my pommel set screw down tight; I don't want it spinning on me.

- I also only used black. I used Krylon Satin Black. I painted the whole thing then, after it dried, sat at my computer for 2+ hours with sand paper and an exacto and tried to copy the patterns you see in the reference photos for my paint job. By the time I got to the bottom of the hilt, where the cone knob was, I didn't feel the need to follow the reference perfectly because it would have taken me another 2+ hours just for that section alone.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Does anyone think the "mystery chunk" is just the cut off part of the power cable that drove the motor?
Where would the power cable have exited the saber when the motor was in use?
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

I tweaked my own personal display plaque to include duel images of Obi-Wan and Luke actually holding the V2.

SW-RW-LSOW-V2p.jpg
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

slothfurnace said:
Does anyone think the "mystery chunk" is just the cut off part of the power cable that drove the motor?
Where would the power cable have exited the saber when the motor was in use?
Click to expand...
That sounds plausible, the cone is covering the switch hole. Where would the cord exit the saber?
There is a corresponding hole, covered in foil tape, on the pommel of the shared stunt.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Can someone please repost the known photos of the mystery chunk if they have them saved? I'm trying to go back and find them but these threads are getting really big.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

I've only read about it being mentioned by BAlinger15 , I haven't seen a clear photo of the chunk.

Edit: Here we go, it was in the V2 thread.

scottjua said:
I based my known list on what I was told directly or can see for sure.

The chunk I was referring to is where we thought a filister screw went. Brandon said it was a chunk of aluminum and not a screw.

Shrug.

Emitter section I still don't know why it weathered that way. I'm not sure what parts moved with the motor versus were static.
Click to expand...
 
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Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Is this it?

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Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

I did my D ring the exact way Roman does it in his tutorial video. I took 1/16 away on both sides of the notch and bent it open to get it on. When I pinched it shut there was no scraping like there usually is for me, first time I cut parts away.

and yes, the pommel should rotate (that slot that the screw goes into goes all the way around the pommel)
 
Re: Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber- based on the new info from SWCA (UPDATE PG 12)

Casting sprue? I've seen reports that one or more of these things were cast aluminum, but :shrug:

I still wonder where the power cable exited the saber.
 
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