JFcustom's FOAM files

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TalonSword

New Member
That Vanquish helmet is awesome, well done!

- - - Updated - - -

Actually, I have a query; how sturdy is Plasti-dip for coating - does it add any decent level of strength to your build? I take it it wouldn't hold up to/be strong enough to e.g. sit down in an Iron Man suit, if the cod is layered with it?

…or is it?
 

TalonSword

New Member
The PDO makes it look like there should be a mountain fold right there around the ear piece. Some builds, you want to lay the foam piece right on top of the other one, but this one makes it look like the ear piece curves around and sits on top of the helmet piece.

Unless I'm looking at your picture wrong and don't see what you're pointing out.
Yeah, I did the Star Lord helmet for Hallowe'en and it's a 3D folded piece, which sticks out from the rest.star-lord-prototype-helmet-102002.jpg Should be visible here.

Just to be clear - that's not me, just a handy pic from google.
 

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collinE83

Well-Known Member
how sturdy is Plasti-dip for coating - does it add any decent level of strength to your build? I take it it wouldn't hold up to/be strong enough to e.g. sit down in an Iron Man suit, if the cod is layered with it?

…or is it?
Thanks, man. You'll notice a little more tightness to the piece's structure after Plasti Dipping, but as far as strength... yeeaah not so much. Now, that can also be a good thing, not being rigid. If you do several layers, it's durable enough to handle a bit of wear and tear without peeling. So if your cod is Plasti Dip-covered foam, then the flexibility would make it more comfortable than something stronger and stiffer.

You could always build a quick test piece, paint it up, then wear it around the house one day and see how it holds up. But also make sure to post a montage video of you doing stuff around the house while wearing it.
 

Durkness

Well-Known Member
Has anyone heard from JFcustom? I looked at his profile and he hasn't made any posts on here since September.
Yep...... and he is doing very well. He does jump on rarely but he is enjoying his other hobbies and still playing with 3D models. I can't speak for him, but I know with the amount of time spent sharing, constant questions being asked, requests for assistance being sent daily, and not charging for time or the files, you have to unplug.
 

TalonSword

New Member
Thanks, man. You'll notice a little more tightness to the piece's structure after Plasti Dipping, but as far as strength... yeeaah not so much. Now, that can also be a good thing, not being rigid. If you do several layers, it's durable enough to handle a bit of wear and tear without peeling. So if your cod is Plasti Dip-covered foam, then the flexibility would make it more comfortable than something stronger and stiffer.

You could always build a quick test piece, paint it up, then wear it around the house one day and see how it holds up. But also make sure to post a montage video of you doing stuff around the house while wearing it.
Nice one, thanks :) That could be a plan, but maybe without the video.

...unless... maybe a little Deadpool mash-up!

I'll check it out once I get my hands on some plastidip.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk
 

B0NES

New Member
hi there... im looking for sharkheads pdo file of iron man foam helmet... i think thats old file where chin is all made from one part... thx
 

Mig407

Well-Known Member
Template: Iron Man MK 4
Foam Used: 1/4" rolled EVA foam from Harbor Freight and 5mm 12"x9" EVA foam from Hobby Lobby
Me: 5"7", 225lbs ( yeah, overweight, I know, but I'm working on it - need to get thinner so the abs look correct. :)


I started this build last week and I have to admit I'm enjoying working with foam - I've tried paper and cardboard a year or so ago and didn't get too far, but I decided to give another try after finding this thread. Anyway, I've finished a boot (which fit fine) and a thigh ( which is where the problem occurs ). I didn't bother rescaling the piece before printing - so I know there's a 4" different between my height and the original scale of 6'. Other people on here have said they didn't bother with the scale either and it worked ok for them. So I ended up with a piece that was too long, but it is also too narrow for my upper leg. I know I'm a bit overweight- but very little of that fat is in my legs - they are rather skinny.

So my question is this - how do I scale for more space inside the piece without add any additional length to it?

Thanks.

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=161530 jfcustoms is a genius.hope this helps.
 

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Mig407

Well-Known Member
Template: Iron Man MK 4
Foam Used: 1/4" rolled EVA foam from Harbor Freight and 5mm 12"x9" EVA foam from Hobby Lobby
Me: 5"7", 225lbs ( yeah, overweight, I know, but I'm working on it - need to get thinner so the abs look correct. :)


I started this build last week and I have to admit I'm enjoying working with foam - I've tried paper and cardboard a year or so ago and didn't get too far, but I decided to give another try after finding this thread. Anyway, I've finished a boot (which fit fine) and a thigh ( which is where the problem occurs ). I didn't bother rescaling the piece before printing - so I know there's a 4" different between my height and the original scale of 6'. Other people on here have said they didn't bother with the scale either and it worked ok for them. So I ended up with a piece that was too long, but it is also too narrow for my upper leg. I know I'm a bit overweight- but very little of that fat is in my legs - they are rather skinny.

So my question is this - how do I scale for more space inside the piece without add any additional length to it?

Thanks.
here ya go mate. this might eliminate a bit of guess work for you. this scale chart
works with the robo mk4 and mk6 jfcustoms foam edits

5'3" - 5'4" try in between scale 22 - 23
5'5" - 5'6" try in between scale 23 - 23.5
5'7" - 5'8" try in between scale 23.5 - 24
5'9" - 5'10" try in between scale 24 - 24.5
5'11" - 6' try in between scale 24.5 - 25.5
6'1" - 6'2" try in between scale 26 - 26.5
6'3" - 6'4" try in between scale 26.5 - 27.5

Then use the measurement tool (right-click in the 2D window and select it from the pop-up menu) to take specific
measurements between any two points/vertices on the 3D model. This allows you to check the diameter of the openings
that your arms and legs need to fit through as well as being able to check certain lengths and any other measurement
that you think might be helpful. Just compare these measurements to measurements that you take of your own body parts.

** here are a few mk4/mk6 build tips (or any armor really)
1. get an action figure of the armor you want to build. it helps alot. also as many ref pics as you can. i find hot toys pics work best.
2. always always always build the cod/abs first!!!!! the boots second!!! why? then cuz then you can determine proper leg length/scale and proper chest/back scaling. remember the abs must tuck into/under the torsp...so go a little bigger here it wont look bad you can hardly tell. also attaching abs to cod prevents abs from popping out of place.
3. do not attach the hand plate to forearm!!!!!! attach to glove instead.
4.personally i group my scaling as follows:
ex:
-cod/abs/hip pods
-thigh/shin
-chest/back/brace/bicep/forearm
-boots
-shoulder bells
-neck
hope this helps if you have more questions feel free to ask
 

JFcustom

Sr Member
You'll find something close to your request here : c3po - hand.pdo
It's not exactly a template file, but at least a texture reference. Basically C3po's hands could be painted on a skinny pair of gloves, or maybe done from a set of flat foam pieces glued onto a skinny glove.

Oh and... I'll be back. :cool
 

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SithRose

New Member
These are incredibly handy and useful. One note - they do not work so well with 1/4th inch foam - the designs pretty much require some level of sanding and filling, as well as being able to groove the foam in various places, and the yoga mat EVA foam just doesn't lend itself well to any of that. At all. :) Fortunately, my Cyberman was for a kid, so it doesn't need to be picture-perfect super screen accurate - he'll have out-grown it before Halloween. (Yeah, yeah, yeah. I told them sternly "no armor for growing boys". Then they discovered Doctor Who. I had to talk him out of a Dalek.) They could use a *bit* more in the way of actual instructions, and some relatively important edging pieces are missing from the Cyberman - I was able to freehand cut them, luckily. While resizing the pattern is a little hit or miss, it can be done fairly easily by eyeballing the armor and getting measurements from the person you're making it for. Yes, a 9 year old is smaller than the pattern is designed for, go figure! *grins* I managed to resize all of the pieces by measurement and eyeball and only get two of them slightly too small, which I figured out after printing the pattern. All in all, this was not bad for my very first EVA foam project, and very educational for me as a costumer. I really must thank the designer quite a lot for providing the pep files.

Now I'm besieged with requests for Darth Vader helmets and other such things...
 

laellee

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
These are incredibly handy and useful. One note - they do not work so well with 1/4th inch foam - the designs pretty much require some level of sanding and filling, as well as being able to groove the foam in various places, and the yoga mat EVA foam just doesn't lend itself well to any of that. At all......
Welcome to the site!

You shouldn't write 1/4" foam off for everybody so easily, A lot of us (me included) build almost entirely in 1/4" foam and get great results. I don't sand either, and rarely use filler. Also, grooving and beveling foam is typically going to be needed on any foams thicker than craft sheets if you want to avoid gaps and such.

1/4" foam, no sanding or filler:

 

RudeMcRude

New Member
Any chance you have or can easily aquire pdo files for Mordekaiser from league of legends? I'm tryng to make him right now, and It's super difficult just eyeballing from a 3d model
 

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