Unlimited Run Iron Giant Bolt/Screw kit w/ electronic light and sound

Cervelo R3sl said:
The chip can be soldered in two different positions. Does it matter which way? Thanks
Click to expand...


The chip has a dot embossed into it (the dot indicates pin 1).

This dot is indicated on the diagram. (Maybe I should have made it bolder.)

PCB diagram red arrow.jpg
 
Hey Everybody, just finished putting mine together!

IMG_6750_zpscwlk3g2z.jpg



A few closing thoughts:


  • Beautiful kit! Huge props to Justice, this has been a fun little project.
  • A little sanding / finishing may be required. But overall the resin and casts are amazing quality.
  • Pick your paint carefully. The metallic paint I used was very thick and caused the paint to run. Paint very light coats. Sand the resin first if you're worried about adhesion.
  • The tolerances are very tight. Try not to paint the insides of things, and make sure you have sandpaper ready if painted surfaces are too tight. (Especially in the bottom cone).
  • Test the LED's before you soldier. They are directional and will not work if wired backwards.
  • Trim the LED's as short as you can. Try to get them to slide all the way into their "hole" without leads sticking out. Mine were - and it was very difficult to install everything correctly.
  • The inside diameter is JUST big enough for the board. Tolerance was VERY tight. Wires kept touching and shorting out, causing a light to stay on or off permanently. Finally got it installed and working, but it was very tricky. Shrink tubing would have helped (didn't think of it at the time). Don't let the wires be TOO long, otherwise it won't all shove down inside.
  • Honestly I don't know if I could take this apart through the top magnetic cap. Things are so tight, I think if I need to change the battery I will have to disassemble the entire cone.


Had a ton of fun on this. Now off to build a stand!
 
royalnewjersey said:
Hey Everybody, just finished putting mine together!

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/royalnewjersey/IMG_6750_zpscwlk3g2z.jpg


A few closing thoughts:


  • Beautiful kit! Huge props to Justice, this has been a fun little project.
  • A little sanding / finishing may be required. But overall the resin and casts are amazing quality.
  • Pick your paint carefully. The metallic paint I used was very thick and caused the paint to run. Paint very light coats. Sand the resin first if you're worried about adhesion.
  • The tolerances are very tight. Try not to paint the insides of things, and make sure you have sandpaper ready if painted surfaces are too tight. (Especially in the bottom cone).
  • Test the LED's before you soldier. They are directional and will not work if wired backwards.
  • Trim the LED's as short as you can. Try to get them to slide all the way into their "hole" without leads sticking out. Mine were - and it was very difficult to install everything correctly.
  • The inside diameter is JUST big enough for the board. Tolerance was VERY tight. Wires kept touching and shorting out, causing a light to stay on or off permanently. Finally got it installed and working, but it was very tricky. Shrink tubing would have helped (didn't think of it at the time). Don't let the wires be TOO long, otherwise it won't all shove down inside.
  • Honestly I don't know if I could take this apart through the top magnetic cap. Things are so tight, I think if I need to change the battery I will have to disassemble the entire cone.


Had a ton of fun on this. Now off to build a stand!
Click to expand...


AWESOME! Looks fantastic. I can't tell you how satisfying it is to see it out in the wild.

I'm wondering where the issues are that you had with the wiring. It is tight, but I'm able to get the board in and out for battery changes without any disassembly.

Where were your wires shorting? The only shrink tubing I use is on the switch terminals.

Any info you can give me would be helpful in writing better instructions.

Thanks again
 
Excuse my crude (and semi-phallic looking) drawing. This is a top-down view of the head of the screw with a cross section of the LED tunnel.

IMG_6752_zpswafuur7y.jpg


I believe that my LED leads were slightly too long, and they stuck out a few mm's into the internal shaft section. I bent them 90 degrees against the wall of the shaft to get them out of the way, but they still prevented some movement. I had to install the board from the bottom (between the screw head and the metal pipe). And I'm afraid that if/when I need to pull the board out, it won't be able to slide past those little LED leads. I was also having trouble with the leads getting crushed against each other and shorting out once everything was compacted together inside. Right now the board sits almost entirely down inside the pipe, but I suspect that the "correct" way is for the board to sit partially inside the screw head.

There was probably a smarter way to do it, but this was my rushed attempted as I wanted to finish it and play with it.
 
Finished mine late last week. I decided to go for the Adam Savage style finish, using Run and Buff silver leaf and some craft paint for washes.

IMG_1093.jpgIMG_1094.jpg
 
Thats exactly what i planned on doing with mine, looks great! I can never get the hang of RNB though. Did you just prime it and then rub the heck out of it? I think that would be hard to do in the small corners. I always have trouble with it rubbing off anytime you touch it.
 
Dr Talyn said:
Thats exactly what i planned on doing with mine, looks great! I can never get the hang of RNB though. Did you just prime it and then rub the heck out of it? I think that would be hard to do in the small corners. I always have trouble with it rubbing off anytime you touch it.[/QUOT
Thanks! I have about 3-4 coats of primer on it, and used as little run n buff as I could. For most of it, I put a tiny dab on a cloth and applied it in a roughly circular pattern to spread and buff it out. For the really tight spots (primarily inside the threads), I used a paintbrush to apply it, and buffed it with a cloth- I knew I was going to apply a pretty heavy wash in the threads, so I didn't mind if I couldn't get it super shiny. Justice, I painted the backside of the lenses with Tamiya transparent blue paint.
Good luck with yours!
Click to expand...
 
Got my kit in and I must say it looks amazing. I started putting it together but I was wondering if we need to solder ALL the contacts on the chip? I ask this because I noticed the one Adam put together didn't use all the pins. I do realize his didn't have a board to solder on. Thanks again.
 
Lilbluecar said:
Got my kit in and I must say it looks amazing. I started putting it together but I was wondering if we need to solder ALL the contacts on the chip? I ask this because I noticed the one Adam put together didn't use all the pins. I do realize his didn't have a board to solder on. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Awesome! I'm glad you like it.

No, technically you don't need to solder all the contacts. While this version does use more of the pins than the one Adam and Norm built, there are still a couple that are not used. But may as well hit them all rather than worrying about which is which.
 

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