Limited Run ANTIDOTE VIAL from Temple of Doom Kit by Astyanax, chubsANDdoggers & cjunco1937

[Astyanax]

Some time ago, RPF users chubsANDdoggers and cjunco1937 worked together to produce a couple of nice Antidote Vials from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.

They're back, this time as updated, affordable kits!



RUN 1 RESERVATIONS:

1. Sanjuro (shipped)
2. Jamesfett (shipped)
3. Kroenen77 (shipped)
4. Kroenen77 (shipped)
5. MadCardigan (shipped)
6. zort173 (shipped)
7. brandons84 (shipped)

RUN 2 RESERVATIONS:

1. Don93 (shipped)
2. mrwax (shipped)
3. aeseven7 (shipped)
4. archybean (shipped)
5. MCINTOSH275 (shipped)
6. Pascal Kurosawa (shipped)
7. Keiko (shipped)
8. probablyjarrett (shipped)
9. Bert Fink (shipped)
10. jchristman (shipped)

RUN 3 RESERVATIONS:

1. Aldo The Apache (shipped)
2. goldcylon (shipped)
3. kurtyboy (shipped)
4. darthpaul (shipped)
5. JANDERS10 (shipped)
6. doriang (shipped)
7. 281rm55 (shipped)
8. 281rm55 (shipped)
9. Fallen21 (shipped)
10. TomVDJ (shipped)
11. TomVDJ (shipped)
12. TomVDJ (shipped)
13. lmc3 (shipped)
14. kevin926 (shipped)
15. Jintosh (shipped)

RUN 4 RESERVATIONS:

1. NewYorkJones (shipped)
2. teecrooz (shipped)
3. 281rm55 (shipped)
4. 281rm55 (shipped)
5. jubjub86 (shipped)
6. RedFox79 (shipped)
7. ronski (shipped)

RUN 5 RESERVATIONS:

1. shinema (shipped)
2. glottis - FINISHED (shipped)
3. glottis - FINISHED (shipped)
4. Remote People (shipped)
5. MSDHILLS (shipped)
6. MSDHILLS (shipped)
7. MichaelFuji (shipped)
8. jubjub86 (shipped)
9. moffeaton (shipped)
10. Bootlegger137 (shipped)
11. EagleScout (shipped)
12. ETSY - BJ (shipped)

RUN 6 RESERVATIONS:

1. sandbags - FINISHED (shipped)
2. ahuntley (contacted)
3. ETSY - CL (shipped)
4. knibs7 (contacted)
5. knibs7 (contacted)
6. knibs7 (contacted)
7. ETSY - AH (shipped)
8. ETSY - AA (shipped)
9. ETSY - RL (shipped)
10. ETSY - MK (shipped)
11. ETSY - WC (shipped)

KIT CONTENTS:

You will receive the following:

1. 6-dram glass vial & original lid.
2. Resin 3D-printed threaded cap.
3. Rhinestone gems (bold colors).
4. Rhinestone gems (subtle colors).
5. O-ring seal.

PRICING:

Each kit is available for USD $18, shipping included in the Continental United States. For outside this area, please expect us to add $10 to the entire order.

NEW!!!!
I am now also offering FINISHED VIALS for USD $50, shipping included CONUS, $60 overseas. These will come with the gold rings painted on the glass, the cap painted and slightly weathered, and decorated with gems of your choice! Please DM me with your color choice of gems!

(Yes, cjunco1937 and chubsANDdoggers are collecting design commissions for every kit sold!)

ORDERING:

To order and get on the list, send a Private Message to Astyanax with your desired quantity of kits and your mailing address. This will reserve your place on the list for one week. You'll get a response with a PayPal payment address and total cost for your order. Once payment has been received, your kit will be shipped right away. Your status will be updated on the list as your kit is prepared and shipped. If payment is not received within a week, your reservation will be removed and someone else will get your slot in the run.

ABOUT THE RESIN PRINTED CAP:

The caps are 8K resolution prints, which is a very, very fine resolution. Most resin printers in circulation are 4K, some are 8K, and relatively few are 12K. You will find that the lines are sharper and the detail is finer than most resin-cast kits!

There are a few minor flaws here or there. In addition to very fine layer-lines, there are the occasional micro dimples or pimples or single cross-lines or scuffs. These are normal, caused by the printing process or by support structure that held the model in place while printing. The supports have been placed in areas that will not be seen, so no filling should be necessary: it all depends on how much of a stickler you want to be.

The resin is relatively soft; sanding should take seconds on each surface! The entire sanding process and filling process (apart from drying time) should not be more than 5-10 minutes.

We will do our very best to get you parts that are have the minimum of these above artifacts.

ASSEMBLY:

Note: This prop is seen only briefly, and is somewhat weathered in most available photography. Don't feel like you have to be too precise!

1. To prepare the cap, sand the bottom rim lightly with 800-grit sandpaper. This works best if you rub the bottom of the cap against the sandpaper on a hard surface. Also, sand the outer surfaces LIGHTLY with 800-grit sandpaper, if you think it needs it.
   
   (The tiny hole inside the cap is for you to use something like a skewer or a pencil to suspend the cap for painting. )
   
   
2. Paint the cap. We used Rustoleum Metallic Gold over black gloss for the finish, and then clear-coated in a water-based gloss. After that, the cap was weathered lightly in a raw umber acrylic wash, which was 99% wiped off. Tamiya TS-21 Gold works really well for the finish as well!
   
   
   
3. Choose your rhinestones. There are bold colors and subtle colors provided. You can use either, or even mix and match!
   
   
   
4. Glue the rhinestones to the painted cap with a SMALL (1mm) dab of CA glue (superglue) placed in the center of each of the 7 indentations. They are sized to prevent your rhinestones from slipping!
   
   
   
5. Paint gold rings on the vial. We accomplished this by masking at the below measurements. If you have a small rubber band, placing that around the vial at the key heights will help you line up your masking tape. Again, Rustoleum Metallic Gold or Tamiya TS-21 work nicely here.
   
   (Dimensions in the drawing above are in millimeters.)
   
   
6. Place the o-ring inside the cap. It will be a tight fit.
   
   
7. Fill the vial with your fluid of choice. Listerine Cool Mint mouthwash is a great color match, and it won't grow fungus over time. You can also use food coloring in a 50-50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water, with a drop or two of Glycerin to prevent settling.
   
   
   
8. Screw on the cap very tightly. Be careful not to put fingerprints into the gold cap!
   
   And DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN, or the cap might crack! You need to find the "sweet spot", where the o-ring is compressed just a little so that the vial remains airtight, but not so far that it puts too much strain on the cap.
   
   A little bit of Vaseline coating the o-ring makes it more effective, and less tightening of the cap will be necessary.
   
   

REFERENCE PHOTOS:




ENJOY!

 

[Jamesfett]

Please put me down for one.

Thanks

Tom

 

[Astyanax]

As of now, all vial kits are spoken for (still awaiting payment from a couple of you)!

If you're still interested in getting one of these kits, please let us know in the thread below. I'm willing to start another run if I can get maybe 4 interested people.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[Don93]

Interested in next run

 

[mrwax]

Count me in if there's another run!

 

[NewYorkJones]

I'd like in for the next run!

 

[aeseven7]

In for the next run!

 

[probablyjarrett]

I used window washer fluid in my old vial and it's been stable for years just as a suggestion. Also any chance of a completed vial instead of a kit?

 

[Jamesfett]

I figured water with food coloring is easiest. Is there a problem with that solution?

 

[cjunco1937]

I figured water with food coloring is easiest. Is there a problem with that solution?

There shouldn’t be. Never tried it though. With the rubber ring that Bill put in, Listerine has not been an issue.

 

[Lightning]

I used Barbicide in mine, like they have in the blue jars at the barbershop, since I had it available. It has the advantage of never ever having anything grow in it.

 

[Astyanax]

I figured water with food coloring is easiest. Is there a problem with that solution?

Water with food coloring will eventually grow white cloudy fungus in it. That's why a goodly amount of isopropyl alcohol is added. The drop or two of glycerine is an emulsifier that prevents separation.

 

[Astyanax]

Also any chance of a completed vial instead of a kit?

Yes, I can paint up the vial and lid for you and glue in the rhinestones, but that's going to be a LOT more expensive. Please PM me if interested.

 

[Astyanax]

Hey all, I'm happy enough with the numbers and discussion, so I've gone ahead and ordered parts for another run. As soon as I have them all in hand and more caps printed, I'll let y'all know and will take orders. Should be less than a week.

Thanks again for the interest!

 

[cjunco1937]

I used Barbicide in mine, like they have in the blue jars at the barbershop, since I had it available. It has the advantage of never ever having anything grow in it.

No doubt that’ll work aesthetically. I always preferred something that I could take a gulp of if I felt like it. Gatorade will do it in a pinch but it looks a bit more diluted than the other options we’ve thrown out. Listerine does that trick but it needs the rubber ring to control it.

 

[cjunco1937]

No doubt that’ll work aesthetically. I always preferred something that I could take a gulp of if I felt like it. Gatorade will do it in a pinch but it looks a bit more diluted than the other options we’ve thrown out. Listerine does that trick but it needs the rubber ring to control it.

Also because heaven forbid one of my nephews sees the vials and tries to drink from it. I’d rather have something in there that is not harmful.

 

[cjunco1937]

I was just mentioning something to Bill that he suggested I post here. The first lids that chubsANDdoggers printed were on MJF.
The advantage of these new resin prints of course is how crisp and beautiful the lines of the grooves look (and they’re less expensive to print). That said, to my eye, I still think the grooves on the resin need to be softened up a bit (to look a bit more like the MJF prints) in order to more closely match the screen prop. I know some of that is the screenshots are blurry. But that’s my observation.

MJF print

Screenshot

I admit that the crisp resin lines do track the grooves from the prop book vial better, although I don’t get too attached to the prop book pic as a reference because that lid is a bit of a mess and has a taper which we modeled at one point but ultimately discarded. Anyway just my thought that Bill suggested I share. It’s a very easy thing to adjust, as people can obviously decide if they want to sand the resin down a bit more to more closely resemble the screenshot.

Prop book

New Resin

 

[Astyanax]

Thanks Carlos! I do think that the lines can be softened by a few extra coats of paint. I would be hesitant to sand, as it's easy to go too far or get in where you didn't mean to. I don't know what kind of resources were available during production in 1983-84, but it's entirely possible that thick paint is why we see those softer edges on the actual prop.

 

[cjunco1937]

Thanks Carlos! I do think that the lines can be softened by a few extra coats of paint. I would be hesitant to sand, as it's easy to go too far or get in where you didn't mean to. I don't know what kind of resources were available during production in 1983-84, but it's entirely possible that thick paint is why we see those softer edges on the actual prop.

Makes sense

 

[Astyanax]

Run 2 "Interest" list above has become the "Reservation" list. I have caps ready to go, just awaiting a couple more parts!