Oddly enough I've literally just marked up mine for drilling, there should be just enough room to fit some bolts in...The funny thing is the hex heads were part of the iron arm piece on the Hasbro prototype. I don't understand why they would remove that. The other major difference between the prototype and final product is the scuba hose section of the wand loom being black instead of green.
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Maybe that's my problem. I'll have to pull them out and check them. I ordered 8 new D batteries from Amazon but they were kind of beat up when I opened them and the first 4 I put in didn't work at all. I need to test all of them, I just haven't gotten around to pulling my multimeter out to do it.Not necessarily. I have a first gen wand. It latches on the pack fine. I briefly had the switch shutdown issue but fresh batteries solved that. I had 2 cells at 100% and 2 at 90%. I think the difference causes the problem. You need 4 matching batteries. I used the tape on the connector method to solve the connectivity issue. I couldn't get the aluminum foil method to work. I bet a bit of bronze wool in the holes would work as well, (not steel, since that could rust.)
First mod that had to be done on mine was moving the mode switch from inside the cyclotron to the unused switch under the crank gen.
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Where do you get the yellow cord ?First mod that had to be done on mine was moving the mode switch from inside the cyclotron to the unused switch under the crank gen.
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I got mine here back in March of last year.Where do you get the yellow cord ?
hmmmm Ok got it . 10ft ! lolI got mine here back in March of last year.
First mod that had to be done on mine was moving the mode switch from inside the cyclotron to the unused switch under the crank gen.
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They added the switch specifically so people can mod it and add their own electronics to it.yeah, that's a great idea, I'm going to borrow it.
And I thought that switch was functional, so, I wonder why the Haslab team made it a dummy switch.
There's actually no switch inside with leads to solder anything to, it does have a small cavity that a toggle switch seats nicely into, which is what I ended up doing. And then I just cut the wires to the switch in the cyclotron and connected them into the new switch under the crank gen.yeah, that's a great idea, I'm going to borrow it.
And I thought that switch was functional, so, I wonder why the Haslab team made it a dummy switch.
Nope. I don't think any Hasbro prop does.Does it come with batteries ?
Brilliant mod!First mod that had to be done on mine was moving the mode switch from inside the cyclotron to the unused switch under the crank gen.
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I don’t quite understand how this holds it onto the pack, with the holes big enough for the nuts to sit recessed into the plate, can’t it just slide off the heads of those nuts?I've updated my Ion Arm, and it's now bolted into place.
I used M6 cap head bolts (which I had left over from the ladder frame), which have a 9.5mm head. I initially drilled two 5mm holes, about 36mm apart, through the removable Ion Arm and into the main part of the pack where it mounts. I tapped that to M6, and then expanded the hole the centre of outer part to 10mm.
Everything should fit, but I was about 0.5mm out and the head of the bolts just fouled the brass. So I filed a little away from the brass rod near the bolt hole and now everything fits fine and the bolts recess flush with the surface of the plastic part.
This does destroy the screw bosses which hold the back plate on, but this isn't too much of a deal as the new bolts mechanically connect everything together anyway.
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Not yet. The only Plasma Series props so far are just the wand and pack. Fingers crossed they do. And a PKE meter. I can't see them not doing a PKE meter.Did Hasbro make a Trap to go with this set ?