Glitch from Reboot (Progress Pics up) WIP (Need more ref pics)

Ohhh, I misunderstood your build, dash what I just said.

For what you are talking about, I think some kind of magnet or Velcro may be in order
 
My goal is to make it just as waterproof as a normal watch. That, as well as the limited working space, rules out the velcro for sure. I'm not sure if the magnet would work either, as I've already got some ridiculously strong magnets in the body, and they might pop from one to the other, if you know what I mean. Right now, despite how much I'm going to hate doing it, I'm leaning towards trimming all the excess of the existing watch case, then cutting out a large chunk of the center of my cog, and gluing the original case into the cog. I'm not positive it'll fit, as the watch face is slightly larger than average, but as long as there's a good millimeter or two of space inside of the bezel it should work.
 
That's an idea, and also, you may be able to used a different watch case, one that screws in, and you could put the back into the body a little and the top into the cog, then you could just screw it on and off.
 
I've got the body of my Glitch sanded smooth and perfectly flat, now I just have to bevel the edges.

Also, the master cog piece has been sanded smooth with 1200 grit sand paper on the front and back, couldn't get into all the sides without dulling the corners, but I think it looks good the way it is with some CNC marks on the sides. I thought up a better way to mold it in 2 piece to give it a nice clean back, so I'll be trying that as soon as I get the chance. With any luck, this mold will last a lot longer than the one I had planned previously.
 
The tape came in today, and it does look pretty cool, but not at all accurate, so I won't be using it. I like the plain orange better. As promised, I took a picture, so I also got one with all my parts.

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The aluminum rod isn't polished yet, the orange tape is just temporary. I need to drill some holes in it, then sand, polish, and re-tape it. Then I need to drill all 3 holes in the body, prime, and paint. Then use some metal pegs and epoxy to attach the rod to the body. The cog is a whole other mess. No luck yet finding a watch lens that'll fit and is as flat as the one I already have. Will be stopping by the shop on Sunday to take the silicone and resin home with me, because I practically don't even work there any more and it would take me weeks to make the mold in the shop, but just 3 or 4 days at home.
 
Risu:

You need a thread just to discuss the cog! That piece has been bogging me down for years whenever I start thinking about making a glitch for myself. I never figured out a way to cut/build it cleanly since I don't have access to any tools to machine it.

Has anyone else tried creating one from scratch?

OK, bumping with my progress so far. As Epileptic Squirrel posted in his other thread, he had his Glitch cog machined out of ABS plastic. he sent it to me to mold and make some casts, but as of yet the weather has been bad every time I've had access to my casting supplies. I'm hoping to mold it up sometime in the next couple of days, though. Unfortunately, the glass pocket watch lens I bought turned out to be a little bit too big. I'm currently trying to track down a new one that's 1 size down, which hopefully won't be too small.

I just placed an order for some 1 inch wide pumpkin orange vinyl tape, and picked up this really cool looking tape along with it in case I'd rather go with cool than SA. It's sort of lenticular, hard to explain, I'll post a picture when it gets here.

And instead of messing around with fiberglass resin and screwing up the body even more I decided to just cover the entire thing in styrene, so I did. I cut all the pieces to size, glued them on with some epoxy, trimmed them to size, and sanded them smooth. Now I just have to find a good way to bevel the edges cleanly without rounding them off at all and then I can prime and paint.

So the only thing I haven't figured out yet is how I'm going to attach the back plate of the watch I bought without permanently gluing it on, so that I can replace the battery, change the time, etc. It uses tiny eyeglass sized screws to attach to the existing watch back, do they make drill and tap sets that small? Or am I going to have to bore out a section of the back of my cog and glue in the back half of the original watch case? Any recommendations would be helpful.
 
The cog was 3d modeled and then CNC machined by epilepticsquirrel. He sent it to me to mold and make resin casts. I should have a few casts poured in a couple weeks. This month will be really busy for me though, so expect delays. These will be available to whoever wants them, though.
 
I suppose I could also sell off my extra aluminum rod, rough cut to the right length, not polished up or anything. No way I'm going to make more bodies though, that thing was a pain.
 
hey that cog looks awfully familiar! Looks great so far; it's awesome seeing everything slowly coming together! I for one would be interested in an extra piece of aluminum rod. Unfortunately I don't have the abilities to make a clean cut, I'm more of a carpenter than a metalworker. Looking forward for more updates!
 
All I've got is a hack saw. The guys at the local metal shop were nice enough to cut a 2 inch piece from the 2 foot bar I bought for free since they charged me the criminal price of $20 for it. Same bar is $4 online, it's the shipping that kills you.

I would say I can't wait to get started on the mold on Sunday, except that I'll be spending the days before in Denver, where the weather isn't like California. And any day I don't feel like I'm here is a good day. Too bad I'll be stuck in this state until I die if my career goes as planned.
 
OK, the last part of the mold has been poured and it's now curing. I'm leaving town tomorrow morning before I'll be able to demold, but when I get back on Saturday or Sunday it's going to be casting time. At this time I'd like to get everybody who wants one to let me know in this brand new thread I've created over in the junkyard. Number of people interested determines the price, I'm not trying to make a huge profit or anything.

http://www.therpf.com/f13/reboot-glitch-cog-piece-93293/
 
OK, I've added you to the list. One more spot for the rod, and the more people who sign up for a cog, the cheaper they'll get.
 
I just pulled the first cast from the mold. As a test, I cut a pour channel, but no air channels. Despite that, it turned out bubble free with the exception of a rather large one on one edge. The flashing was completely negligible and the piece looks like an exact duplicate of the original if it weren't for the nub on the back from the pour channel and the bubble. I'll add some air channels later tonight, and tomorrow I'll start pouring good casts.
 
I had a cool random encounter when I went to the hospital today for a pinched nerve in my back. There was a guy outside selling watches (legitimately though, not out of a trench coat, there was some kind of event going on), and I asked him if he had various sizes of crystals. He said he could custom shape and cut them for about $15-25 if I brought the case in. He said he could also drill and thread holes directly on the back of the case so I don't have to put part of the old watch body into the cog. So when he comes back through town (traveling jeweler I guess) on the 3rd I'm going to give him my parts and hopefully get back a finished cog piece in the mail a few days later. Now if only I could find a store that carries Krylon grey primer. I ran out and apparently Wal-mart only carries white and rust red. I have no idea why you'd want rust red primer.
 
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