Walrus98
New Member
Ah, thank you. Just a question, why the square one and not this: HyperPixel 4.0 - Hi-Res Display for Raspberry Pi - Touch ?
Walrus98
New Member
Thank you!!! I have another very silly question
I got as you suggested the hyperpixel 4.0 Square, but I noticed that unlike other displays like the adafruit one PiTFT Plus 480x320 3.5" TFT+Touchscreen for Raspberry Pi, the hyperpixel doesn't have extra connectors that I can use to attach the rest of the wires. So what else do I need to buy to be able to connect everything to the Raspberry? Thanks again
Walrus98
New Member
Ookaaay
Can you also explain me how to connect to the raspberry pi? Do you have some picture? A diagram is ok too
Doug
New Member
Hey, so I've got a question. Recently I've been trying to create my own pip-boy, but I'm having trouble trying to fit a Hyperpixel 4 Square in your model, as no matter where I place it, it clips though the thing. So I wanted to ask what LCD are you currently using on this project? Are you still using the Dragonboard pcb? I didn't have time to read the whole thread, but I guess the Hyperpixel is not compatible with the Dragonboard, as I can't find any documentation on how to do so
bbroerman
Active Member
Working on printing one very similar to this (using the vtec 115% model as a baseline) and was wondering if you had suggestions for printing some of the harder parts (with all you've learned going through the process yourself)? Specifically, I need the radio knob gears. I can't quite get them right on my FDM printer, and the clear acrylic covers for the display, rad gauge, and radio dial... I've had fairly good luck with everything else so far. Also, who made the circuit boards for your take-up reel for the USB cable??
SLA or SLS will be higher precision that FDM and the parts are solid. I have found that SLA (default resins) can be brittle though.
If they are 2D, then you can use SendCutSend or laser cutting to make them also.
I plan on having my circuit boards made by JLCPCB or PCBWay, I have used both in the past for boards.
If they are 2D, then you can use SendCutSend or laser cutting to make them also.
I plan on having my circuit boards made by JLCPCB or PCBWay, I have used both in the past for boards.
bbroerman
Active Member
Thanks. I'm thinking of having a friend print the gears with his SLA printer using what micro center calls "tough resin". I'm hoping that works. My Ender 3 *almost* got the gears right, but not quite... Unless you can suggest someone who can produce the clear pieces from STLs, I will need to print them in PLA and then trace/cut them from polycarbonate. The circuit boards I have are essentially yours, converted from the STEP files into STLs. The take-up board for the USB reel was then modified in meshmixer to get the shape I needed so I could affix it to the back and attach a pin to hold the pawl. (I'm suspending the pawl from the board using a captive pin, and connecting the spring to a loop on the side of the back) The top board attaches to the post in the center (with the spring) and a cap to hold it all down. The rotator board has 3mm pins to align it to the gear, which also has 3mm pins to align it to the reel, and then those three will be glued together. The cap should hold the takeup board in place (I hope). It not, I can re-work it with more support structure. I guess I could use the copper pins on the take-up board and solder wires directly to them, but the rotator board would be the one thing I absolutely have to have done "right" as a pcb with the concentric copper rings. Do you have files for those 2 boards (other than the step files)?
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bbroerman
Active Member
How is the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 and HyperPixel display working for you? I was thinking of doing an updated version of mine using those later on so I can write some real software for it. Since the display has an I2C interface, I was thinking of sticking with the rotary encoder and ADC I'm currently using with the Arduino on this first version. That way I can keep the rest of the system the same, just changing out the electronics caddy I have designed for the electronic components.
Currently, I'm using the Qualia ESP32-S3 for 666 TFT displays from Adafruit, and a 4" square 480x480 screen. The main select knob is a 10k potentiometer going to an I2C connected ADC (12 bit, 4 channel). The radio knob pot will connect to the same one. The select wheel and button go to an I2C rotary encoder board. For the sound effects, I'm using the 16MB SoundFX board with an I2C GPIO extender to trigger it (After the display, and SDIO card reader that Qualia board didn't have any other gpio ports useable). It's working OK for a first prototype. The rad gauge will probably be a servo (I found one that is 8mm diameter and 8.5mm long) and will probably be controlled by another I2C GPIO breakout board.
Software wise, I'm just showing a series of MJPEGs at about 12 frames a second, starting with the boot up sequence, and then based on the select knob and scroll wheel. I currently have about 52 such files. The knobs and select button also trigger a sound when changing, as will the rad gauge when it's "pinged". The microcontroller doesn't really give me much more to work with as far as I know, but I'm just starting out on this
The Pi Zero is running fast enough. The Hyperpixel display is great. For me there isn't an issue with it using the GPIO on the Pi, as I am using a Pi Pico for GPIO + Analog.
My goal is to make a full PipOS with dynamic and modular content, not just show images, but most Pip-Boy project I have seen show just images.
/Edit, I didn't see your first message:
The retraction mechanism and slip ring are something I am going to totally rework when I get back into the project. Making it just for charging and not full USB.
My goal is to make a full PipOS with dynamic and modular content, not just show images, but most Pip-Boy project I have seen show just images.
/Edit, I didn't see your first message:
The retraction mechanism and slip ring are something I am going to totally rework when I get back into the project. Making it just for charging and not full USB.
bbroerman
Active Member
I have an email out to them to see if they'd sell just one or two... Did you use the CS8190 chip to drive it? Are you willing to share your driver schematic? Thanks!!
No I didn’t use the CS8190. For one: It was out of stock for months when I started the project, it also has a return to zero function I don’t need. If you’re fine with that, then it probably works.
Instead I am using a TB6122 Motor controller. To save you the pain, this is the controller you need. It has PWM A&B, but also direction control which was the thing I needed and so many other H-bridge controllers didn’t have. Any TB6122 controller breakout board should work for you.
I have the schematic and code for this in my Radiation King radio project:
www.therpf.com
(My side project are sort of ways to work out some of the Pip-Boy systems)
Instead I am using a TB6122 Motor controller. To save you the pain, this is the controller you need. It has PWM A&B, but also direction control which was the thing I needed and so many other H-bridge controllers didn’t have. Any TB6122 controller breakout board should work for you.
I have the schematic and code for this in my Radiation King radio project:
Zap's Fallout Radiation King Radio
How about a new rendering. ----------------------- I may not end up modifying the original Philco radio. The front of it is curved in such a away that getting the faceplate to fit perfectly will be very difficult. I would also have to color match the insert panel and I am not confident that...
www.therpf.com
(My side project are sort of ways to work out some of the Pip-Boy systems)
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