Deagostini Falcon. Anyone seen this?

I just finished putting together the upper hull. I remember Steve Dymszo saying on one of his videos not to attach the upper turret or else it's really hard to put the magnetically held upper jaw box and plating into place. Has anyone found this to be the case? I know if I hold the turret on with my hand and try to put it on it doesn't really work, but that might be because I'm slightly changing the curve of the hull when I push down. I was just curious if anyone has had any experience with this? Thanks

There's that raised square detail on the edge of the turret ring that prevents the removable panel from being removed, if you directly lift it up and out.

What needs to be done is the panel needs to be lifted slightly, then rotated out so the panel is no longer sitting under said detail, then it can be removed.

So the turret can still get screwed down, it's just a little tricky to remove the panel afterwards.

There's a video on the build the millennium falcon build diaries Facebook group that shows it better.
 
There's that raised square detail on the edge of the turret ring that prevents the removable panel from being removed, if you directly lift it up and out.

What needs to be done is the panel needs to be lifted slightly, then rotated out so the panel is no longer sitting under said detail, then it can be removed.

So the turret can still get screwed down, it's just a little tricky to remove the panel afterwards.

There's a video on the build the millennium falcon build diaries Facebook group that shows it better.

Thanks! Do you have a link to the Facebook page? There are multiple build diary pages on Facebook.
 
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mystery solved the panel are glued.
cheers
 
Howdy all this is my first studio scale model I have ever attempted to build and paint with not much experience. My question is around the colors and wanted some advice from the experts:

I have a couple of questions in regards to the panel colors.

1) It says spray neutral grey for the grey squares Tamiya XF-53, do you just add some white for the lighter grey areas and mix by eye?
2) The red squares it says to spray rusty red over the grey. Is rusty red the red brown XF-64 or a mix of XF-64 and XF-7 Flat Red?
3) Steve says in the instruction videos that the colors vary if you looking at printed photos or photos on your computer screen so is there a mix of the colors they will release or are we to guess?

I'm only on pack 56 so someone might know if they release the exact color mix or whether we have to mix by eye. Either way was wondering if someone has already done it and would share for a noob I would appreciate it.
 
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And if the side panels on the main hull are glued as well it looks like we won,t be able to seperate
the upper and lower sections afterwards.Gonna be a huge problem for future mods.



i place the circle details couple of weeks ago ... yesterday when i put the frame together and and then glued everything .... I realized O M F L ! i mess the position ... and THERE IS no way to opened again .
so after a lot of thinking ...i cut the screws inside and finally ive got the 2 parts out again and re positioned .- lesson learned.. DOUBLE check everything before glue the parts..LOL

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I have one word for you.....

MAGNETS

That's what I'll be using. I used them on the side panels for my Finemolds falcon, so I could get back in to replace the battery I used for the lighting. Should be easy enough to glue some magnets to the back of the panels to hold them on.

Cheers

Michael
 
You can also use Microscale's Liquid Tape. It's like white glue, but stays tacky after it dries.

Heck, even plain white glue would probably be enough to hold them on, but still be able to pry apart, if needed.
 
i was thinking after my stupid mistake , how difficult is gonna be to open it after glue the panels, if you wanna change a Led for example ..
so probably ill end it out putting just a tiny bit of superglue .. just to keep the panels in.. but not so strong if i want to open it ....
cheers guys
 
With my last issues came my first part that was part of the early production 32" Falcon that since does not exist on the ship anymore. So I've been looking at a lot of reference trying to decide if I am going to include them on mine. The first piece I'm referring to is the little star looking piece that fits on top of the three pronged piece that is magnetically held towards the front of the turret (pictured below).

I've also been cross referencing it with the 5ft Falcon and have had some thoughts that I wanted to get peoples feedback on. I find it interesting that the armor plate that sits on front of the turret (looks like the top of a howitzer plate or something) on both the 32 inch and 5ft are missing, which makes me wonder hypothetically if they were removed on both or one on purpose. Maybe it didn't make sense in a real world situation when you can have your cannon blasting the back of the plating (or radar dish haha) and ILM removed them on purpose. I'm also wondering if anyone has seen a shot of the 32" close enough in the movie to see if it was even on there during filming? I have a great shot of the 32" on my ROTJ poster from 1983 where you can clearly see the plate not there. Just a thought because I would like mine to look how it did in the movie as compared to pre-production. I guess it's probably more likely that one of the ships had the plate get lost and the other was taken off to match more closely since the 32" was built one movie after the 5ft. Any thoughts? How is everyone approaching these extra parts?

32 inch before and after
Falcon 32 Compare.jpg
5 ft before and after
Falcon 5 Compare.jpg
 
i was thinking after my stupid mistake , how difficult is gonna be to open it after glue the panels, if you wanna change a Led for example ..
so probably ill end it out putting just a tiny bit of superglue .. just to keep the panels in.. but not so strong if i want to open it ....
cheers guys

Next issue(79) has the mandible tip, plating and led/wiring, I,m just gonna tack glue the plate on, should be easy enough then
to swap out the led if it fails.
 
just finished the cockpit. This was a major fix. Used the original one from Deag as I thought it was a better base to start with than there revamped one. Used round rod to do the windows like the original. Have full details how I modified it on the Australian build thread if interested.

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I do a lot of building and painting of models, often large projects under time pressure. Although the laid-back approach of the drip-feed appeals I'm not sure I have the patience for a 2-year build.

I've just asked if they'll set my subscription to 8 issues a month. That could be a nice compromise.
If anyone was wondering - Modelspace in the UK can only offer a 4-issues per month subscriptions, variations on that are not possible. I'm going to wait until all issues are published and buy the whole thing.
 
Here is my attemb of bring some new parts for the hall.

This is for the Nav-Consol wall:
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This is for the bunk wall:

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This is how it looks when you don´t make a recess like I did:

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Here are the parts that I glued together:

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This is how you can get the parts:

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Also I used the paragrafix parts to build the floor.

May the force be with us all...

Joerg
 
Wow, Joe Cool and Supercoolin, those custom interiors are absolutely stunning! Great job on all those scratch built add-ons. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I will be building the interior. Sooo much to replace/rebuild. Thanks for all the awesome inspiration.
 
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