Limited Run DaveP's Obi Static Parts Run 2022/23 (Sign-Up Closed)

Hi, I am interested, if you are still taking names.

Hi. Yes, still adding taking names (y) I've just updated the list. Thanks! :)

On the Chronicles version at least, the square washer behind that lever is missing too...
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That's one less thing to worry about making. ;)

Well spotted :) Not to worry, this is a detail I've included on the full model. Appreciate the heads up. (y)

Interested, pending final price.

That's great, thanks. I've just updated the list. Cheers (y)


**PROGRESS UPDATE**

I've made a lot of progress on the models lately, and thought it was about time I shared some detailed previews! So here we go...

You may have seen on Instagram that I've been working my way through the high poly models of the various parts so that I can put together a full preview.

These are now pretty much finished. I've included what you might call surface damage to the models, but at this stage I've ignored any major damage that would affect the actual shape of the parts. I do have a short list of subtle changes that I'll be making, but for the most part, I'm satisfied with how things are looking.

Each individual part has been a project in itself, with it's own set of challenges. I've used all the tools at my disposal to ensure that they are as accurate as humanly possible! A combination of photographic reference, original blueprints, and physical measurements of vintage parts have all played a part in arriving at the current models.

Like I said, there is a small list of tweaks. The most glaringly obvious one being the size of the lettering on the clamp! :D Please rest assured that this has not gone unnoticed! This, along with a couple of more subtle discrepancies, will be addressed going forward (y)

For now though, here are some pretty renders of the models in their current form:


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Here are a couple of Xray views of the internal structure. I will be having a carriage bolt specially made, along with emitter plug. For the spacer, I'll be including a cut down flash hider which attaches to the booster section. Having these parts modelled has allowed me to play around with them in 3D and test how everything fits together. Interestingly, the extruded part of the cap section of the grenade doesn't fit inside the flash hider. I will be including it though, as it can be flipped. When screwed in to the grenade upside down, it creates a flat bottom for the spacer to sit against.

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Here are a few more renders of the various parts:

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And one last render for your viewing pleasure.... The models fit over the reference pictures really well, and putting the following image together has been really useful for working out the correct spacing of the various parts, as well as bringing up a couple of final tweaks to work on as I transition from preview models to working drawings:

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Anyway, I hope you like what you see. Thanks for your patience everyone. It's been a lot of work, but my To-Do list is getting steadily chipped away at!

Once these final adjustments are made, I'll be moving on to the final drawings for the machine shop!

Thanks for your support everyone and for all of your suggestions and input.

All the best and MTFBWY,

Dave
 
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I have to say, my mind is blown. These previews are incredibly promising, and look insanely good.

About the damage: will the parts be machined/manufactured WITH the superficial damage you're modelled? If so, how will that affect the finishing of the parts? Example: parts that are chromed or blued will be finished after the machining, so the damage will be chromed and/or blued?

I hope that my question is clear. Aside from that, kudos on the great work! This will be the ultimate Obi ANH and I absolutely can't wait. :)
 
I have to say, my mind is blown. These previews are incredibly promising, and look insanely good.

About the damage: will the parts be machined/manufactured WITH the superficial damage you're modelled? If so, how will that affect the finishing of the parts? Example: parts that are chromed or blued will be finished after the machining, so the damage will be chromed and/or blued?

I hope that my question is clear. Aside from that, kudos on the great work! This will be the ultimate Obi ANH and I absolutely can't wait. :)
Thanks Mike! :)

So, just to be clear, the surface damage on the clamp is just for the previews here. The actual clamp will come un-weathered as standard. I will be offering full commissions but these will need to be limited to small batches. For the standard kit I'll be providing the foil for the clamp, along with a template for the damage. (y)

I had previously mentioned that the welding bead on the booster could be an optional extra. It wasn't until I started playing around with the high poly models that I realised this has actually been completely removed on the actual prop, so it's actually a corner that needs to be removed rather than having the weld added. This is still something that I'd be happy to include as an optional extra.

For the V2 run, I offered the full commissions, but also optional extras like the emitter bending and the pommel damage. I'm thinking I could work out a similar arrangement with this run, offering optional extras on some of the parts such as accurate dents on the emitter/wind-vane...

I'll have a think about all this and lay it all out when I work out the pricing. (y)

Thanks again, Mike!
 
Hey Dave! Thanks for the fast reply!

If I understand correctly, the parts will be machined/finished (blued) to be pristine, and the accurate dents on the parts (emitter, grenade, booster etc) will be reproduced afterwards as an option. So instead of buying a full commission, we could buy the damaged parts but finish the saber ourselves (with templates and such) just like the V2.

Thanks again and keep on the (very) good work!
 
Hey Dave! Thanks for the fast reply!

If I understand correctly, the parts will be machined/finished (blued) to be pristine, and the accurate dents on the parts (emitter, grenade, booster etc) will be reproduced afterwards as an option. So instead of buying a full commission, we could buy the damaged parts but finish the saber ourselves (with templates and such) just like the V2.

Thanks again and keep on the (very) good work!
That's correct (y) The pristine/un-dinged parts will be blued/blacked at the very least (unless machine finish is specifically requested). Then additional dings can be added as optional extras (y)

I'd class the clamp weathering as more detailed commission work though. There's quite a lot going on there! :D
 
Is it just the bolt or are the fins on the bolt (bit that is attached to the booster) Hoping its just the bolt? Rubbish description sure the part has a name.
 
Really looking forward to the flash hider/booster combo!

Thanks :) All credit to you (y) I should have mentioned that it was your suggestion. Wasn't sure how it would all fit together until I had the models made to play around with. It all fits together nicely though.

Hard to say if this is how they built the actual prop, but It's certainly possible, and looks pretty cool too. :)

Is it just the bolt or are the fins on the bolt (bit that is attached to the booster) Hoping its just the bolt? Rubbish description sure the part has a name.

I've modelled the spacer on a MK II Flash Eliminator (from original blueprints), rather than the Muzzle Choke. Although I did cross reference the measurements against the choke references that I have.

It was suggested that the longer flash eliminator could have been cut down and used as the spacer underneath the clamp:

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Since what is actually underneath the clamp is open to interpretation, I figured it would be cool to base the spacer on a vintage part, as suggested by PoopaPapaPalps. The fact that it screws in to the booster will keep everything nice and sturdy too.

It wouldn't be particularly difficult to convert a flash hider in to a choke in theory. Not quite as simple as cutting off the cone though.
The nut is slightly different, and would need to be chrome plated after cutting and reshaping the nut. This would also end up requiring a replacement spacer underneath the clamp too.

Hope that explains the reasoning behind it anyway, and that everyone is happy to have it included?
 
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For me the extra part from the flash hider serves no purpose it doesn't hold or secure things up, the nut can on its own.
 
Well, if no one wants one, I'll gladly take the one off! ;)

Thanks :) All credit to you (y) I should have mentioned that it was your suggestion. Wasn't sure how it would all fit together until I had the models made to play around with. It all fits together nicely though.

Hard to say if this is how they built the actual prop, but It's certainly possible, and looks pretty cool too. :)

Exactly that. No one knows if there ever was anything under the clamp, maybe not as all the parts were later returned; I wish I could take credit, it's just something I've seen others done with their vintage builds and it just makes sense to me.
 
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Any chance you'd offer a choice flash hider or muzzle choke? I don't get the original builders cutting a flash hider when the choke does the same job.
 
For me the extra part from the flash hider serves no purpose it doesn't hold or secure things up, the nut can on its own.
Any chance you'd offer a choice flash hider or muzzle choke? I don't get the original builders cutting a flash hider when the choke does the same job.

The thing is, it does serve a purpose. That's the whole reason for adding it. The choke wouldn't do the same job on it's own. It would require an additional part (a spacer).

The idea is, that if you're going to have a spacer, and there's no way of knowing what they actually used, it makes sense to use something that they would have had to hand, and that actually connects to the booster.

Having a choke and spacer would actually be far less sturdy. The flat end of the spacer up against the small surface area of the nut, compared with something that actually threads in to the booster, and was made to do so.

It's been pointed out to me that the cap of the grenade isn't needed. Rather than flipping it to provide a flat surface, the cut down flash hider actually fits in to the open end of the grenade and sits perfectly on the internal step when cut to the right length. This is something I'm going to have a play around with on the models. This actually makes much more sense and would be even sturdier.

As for providing the choke as an option, I'm not sure... I obviously want everyone to be happy, but this is only going to be affordable for people if the parts are made in large quantities unfortunately. Altering the flash hider, and converting it in to a muzzle choke is possible like I say, and would be an interesting project. It would result in an additional spacer part needing to be made though.

Does the original prop not exist.? are those the only known photos of it.?

The prop very likely no longer exists unfortunately. :( It's believed that The only references we have are the few B&W photos and the footage from the movie.

Interested, if you’re still taking names.

Thanks so much. I've added you to the list. I'll be taking names right up to ordering the parts, which won't be for a few weeks yet.

I have a small snagging list for the models, which then need to be drawn up as final technical drawings before getting quotes.

The more the merrier obviously, as the greater the quantities, the lower the price is likely to be. :)




I've had a few videos rendering over the past couple of days that you might all like to see. These are the models as they stand, and are still a WIP. Just small list of adjustments to make here and there like I say:









 
One of my original parts uses a choke- made by Chris several years ago. And no spacer. It holds firm - I should have got more from him at the time.
All I use is an M6 rod all the way through. No butchering of the handwheel. I had cones made that fit the M6 thread to fit the BP. All good nothing under the clamp other than that bolt.
 
Looks amazing Dave! would it be possible to be put down for the 2 part balance pipe and the resistors and washers? What's the threading you plan to go with for the insert in the balance pipe?
 
I’m definitely in favor of using the cut down flash hider inside the clamp. That’s what I’ve kind of always assumed they did to be honest. Why take it off and then add a spacer back in if cutting it works as well as it seems that it does?
 

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