Alright, unfolding required only about 2 clicks of the mouse. But, one comment I have is that having the parts have a folded thickness instead of just being the thickness of one sheet of paper makes the process much harder is is rather unnecessary. The desired thickness will come from the resin and bondo stages. That is my only suggestion, other than that, it is beautiful, all I have to do is size it. I will still be using the chin cup and comm box for sure, and possibly the swoop. If I could ask one more favor, that would be to help size it, I've had bad experiences trying to size models before that resulted in a lot of wasted time, paper, and ink. Thanks again
Captain Raymus Antilles Costume
- Thread starter Blade1286
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- star wars a new hope
Fierfek
Sr Member
Well, the helmet is supposed to be 9.5 inches tall and 12 inches wide. Try setting the depth to 295 mm and set your margins to 5mm. If you dont want to build the extra thickness in paper just build the outside layer with the lip and omit the inside layer. Hope this helps.
Fierfek
Sr Member
I would think so, I asked someone with an RFT helmet and thats what I was told.
Well, just to keep you guys updated, I'm still fighting with the Swoop. Fierfek's file was perfectly shaped, but the sizing has come to everything but the right size, and I've tried at least 5 different cuts of Blaxmyth's swoop. I'll keep working on it. I'm going to focus most of my time on sizing Fierfek's so I can use the comm box and chin piece. Thanks again for all your help in this project! I'll keep this updated as much as possible.
Well, I got Fierfek's model sized, I realized I was putting the width dimensions in the length box. (Minor details) Anyway, I'm just about to print the new swoop, comm box, and chin cup. once I do some disjoining to ensure they fit on a page. Anybody know how get it to put the numbers on the tabs?
The chin cup is finished, and very nice, I must say. Thanks Fierfek. I'll post pictures when I get more done.
The chin cup is finished, and very nice, I must say. Thanks Fierfek. I'll post pictures when I get more done.
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Fierfek
Sr Member
I'm glad you were able to figure it out. Now, to turn the edge ID on, simply select show edge ID under 2d options.
That would make sense....... Thanks. I have the helmet, chin cup, and basic comm box done. Today I plan on building the new swoop and working on the raised details on the comm box. After I finish the swoop, I'll post my progress pictures so far. Thanks again for all your help guys. Its finally starting to come together!
Well, whats a project with out problems. :angry*sigh* the swoop came out far too big for the helmet, I'm debating whether to re print it or to try Fierfek's helmet. But that's tomorrow, I'm about out of patience tonight. I think the heat is getting to me. ugh. :wacko
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Well, Because Fierfek did his in a different style than I would prefer to work with (cause i'm picky like that :lol ) I'm going to try and re-size Blaxmyth's helmet. I remembered him saying he had to shrink it to fit on the page, so I've up'ed it to the same size/scale as the swoop. If this project gets successfully finished, It will be all worth it...... I hope.:cool
I was doing some research and I stumbled across this gem. A Navy Talker helmet museum piece, WITH DIMENSIONS! :love I've seen a thousand different measurements for the NTH but I'd be more inclined to trust these than any others. It may have been found before, but here it is.
The Price of Freedom: Navy Talker's Helmet
Erm, anyone know how to edit all three pepakura dimensions independently?
The Price of Freedom: Navy Talker's Helmet
Erm, anyone know how to edit all three pepakura dimensions independently?
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Alright, well I'm still on the hunt for a accurately size Navy Talker Helmet pep file. I have the swoop, comm box, and chin cup thanks to fierfek. The Dimensions for the NTH are 8.5"x11.25"x12.75" (HxWxD). After I get the that, its fiberglass time. Oh, and if possible, it would help to have a bottom on the helmet to help keep the shape during the first coat of resin. kthxbai :lol
Darth Lars
Master Member
Too bad that I have missed seeing this thread for so long a time. There have not been that many people that have made this costume, but I am one of them, so I could give you some advice. My description on Rebel Legion's web site is not up any more, so I will have to post a new one here instead:
Helmet: My helmet was made from a ABS kit from RA, but the swoop was rather small so I upgraded it with one from TK560.
Jacket: Here is a picture of the original.
I think that it looks like all seams were made in the same brown thread. Practically all seams are double-stitched.
I made my jacket. I took a pattern for a suit, transferred it to pattern paper and simplified it a lot. I used lightweight beige cotton twill. The shoulder pieces were cut from the same fabric and dyed. The lining was made from the same pattern as the outer layer but in another fabric. The collar was just a rectangle. I had shoulder pads and a zipper. In all it was not difficult to make but the pockets took a bit of effort. I can recommend that you add a lining -- it is very comfy.
I know others have used US Army BDU jackets and modified them, but I don't think they look as good.
Shirt: Modified brown shirt. I just followed a RFT tutorial.
Pants: The same you planned. Khaki pants and a black ribbon. Beware the pockets. It may help if you rip the inseam before adding the stripe and remake it afterwards, otherwise you will have to thread each pant leg onto the sewing machine which can be difficult.
Badge: Piece of sheet aluminium. Pin. Button covers "EAO series 01" -- the same series that most Imp badges are made of, just the circular type, glued on with epoxy.
Helmet: My helmet was made from a ABS kit from RA, but the swoop was rather small so I upgraded it with one from TK560.
Jacket: Here is a picture of the original.
I think that it looks like all seams were made in the same brown thread. Practically all seams are double-stitched.
I made my jacket. I took a pattern for a suit, transferred it to pattern paper and simplified it a lot. I used lightweight beige cotton twill. The shoulder pieces were cut from the same fabric and dyed. The lining was made from the same pattern as the outer layer but in another fabric. The collar was just a rectangle. I had shoulder pads and a zipper. In all it was not difficult to make but the pockets took a bit of effort. I can recommend that you add a lining -- it is very comfy.
I know others have used US Army BDU jackets and modified them, but I don't think they look as good.
Shirt: Modified brown shirt. I just followed a RFT tutorial.
Pants: The same you planned. Khaki pants and a black ribbon. Beware the pockets. It may help if you rip the inseam before adding the stripe and remake it afterwards, otherwise you will have to thread each pant leg onto the sewing machine which can be difficult.
Badge: Piece of sheet aluminium. Pin. Button covers "EAO series 01" -- the same series that most Imp badges are made of, just the circular type, glued on with epoxy.
Awesome, Thanks Lars. That reference pic will help a lot. Most of the ones I've found so far are the action figure :rolleyes I want to start the resin, but I need the resized helmet. :unsure
Blaxmyth: While rereading the earlier posts, I noticed you said you built a Navy Talker Helmet full scale. If i could get my hands on that, that's the last piece I need.
Blaxmyth: While rereading the earlier posts, I noticed you said you built a Navy Talker Helmet full scale. If i could get my hands on that, that's the last piece I need.
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Blaxmyth
Sr Member
Hi Blade
The pep file I sent was scaled to those measurements from the picture you posted previously. It's quite a low poly model, so the facets are very noticeable, but I'm building up quite a thick layer of fibreglass inside and am sanding off the corners on the outside so there's less bondy needed.
This is the first time I've done fibreglassing and I'm learning as I go, but it seems OK at this stage. I actually like this model more than some others I have seen because the bottom sides of the helmet are flared, not parallel. Some pep files have the sides more like a hemisphere, but the pictures I have seen of the Talker show a pronounced flare.
I've also reworked the pep for the swoop with a card support to stop it distorting while the fibreglass sets.
I'm at work at the moment, but will try to take some pictures and post them later tonight.
Regards, Phil
The pep file I sent was scaled to those measurements from the picture you posted previously. It's quite a low poly model, so the facets are very noticeable, but I'm building up quite a thick layer of fibreglass inside and am sanding off the corners on the outside so there's less bondy needed.
This is the first time I've done fibreglassing and I'm learning as I go, but it seems OK at this stage. I actually like this model more than some others I have seen because the bottom sides of the helmet are flared, not parallel. Some pep files have the sides more like a hemisphere, but the pictures I have seen of the Talker show a pronounced flare.
I've also reworked the pep for the swoop with a card support to stop it distorting while the fibreglass sets.
I'm at work at the moment, but will try to take some pictures and post them later tonight.
Regards, Phil
I'm not super picky but you may want to look for existing threads (i'm sure they exist), if not start your own. Also, you may want to refrain from posting in unrelated threads. Some guys will burn you for that.
Depending on how this goes I might be interested, but if you find someone else, go for it. I don't usually have a lot of time to work on stuff.
^^Phil: that helmet doesn't fit into the dimensions of the real one. In mm they are (approx.) 215.9mm, 285.75mm, 323.85mm (H, W, D).
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