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Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
I've been seeing some really nice 3D printed droids in the C-3PO builders Facebook group, and I've decided that I need to get in on this. The models by Jesse_M seem to be the most popular, so thats what I'll be using. My printer is a CR-10, and I used CC3D PLA Silk Gold filament. Model was sliced into 0.2mm layers using Cura.
27r9FY8O_o.jpg


The assembly:
C2VP2k98_o.jpg
zpiyWkM0_o.jpg
ftMBYctW_o.jpg


Some pictures of the printing chaos:
uX3YmdaC_o.jpg
9ntSDh5s_o.jpg


Unfortunately, it doesn't fit my head. I think if I scaled it up about 5% and reprinted it, I could wear it. I think I could get away with making it a little bigger, it looks pretty small next to the other buckets:
uB7YOJ5s_o.jpg


Torso V2 model by Jesse (scaled to 105%), Hatchbox PLA, 0.3mm layer height, 35 hours print time.
BuIjeBba_o.jpg


Left Arm model by Jesse (scaled to 105%), Hand model by Gordon Tarpley, Hatchbox PETG, 0.2mm Layer height
2dajsPZt_o.jpg


cnDBQ8hl_o.jpg


First eye prototype, LEDs are too yellow, and maybe a little too bright.
eUppSQLX_o.jpg
 

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Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
Heres a question, how coarse is the plastic?
Most of the prints have a 0.3 mm layer height

Looking good! That filament is much shinier than the gold Hatchbox I used.
I built my animatronic 3PO using Jesse's files, plus some from Tim O'Sullivan.
Animatronic C-3PO
I saw that, that is really cool!

I am getting very excited, I never thought I would have a 3PO, let alone BE a 3PO! I think the last time i attempted to build one, I was in 4th grade, and I used cardboard boxes, cans, and paper mache. I wonder if there are any pictures of that abomination...

A quick test fit (this is going to be a very warm costume)-
gZsOEuNH_o.jpg


I've been experimenting with the eyes, but I haven't found a configuration I like yet. In the above image, both eyes have yellow LEDs, but one eye has a white backing, and the other has a black backing I bought some warm white LEDs, and they really help tone down the orange color, but now the eyes seem to have a green tint.
Warm white LEDs with gold backing:
gPQYnjzc_o.jpg


This is pretty much the current state:
faZuYGfW_o.jpg


My girlfriend commented that the apartment is starting to look like a sandcrawler. That's a compliment, right?
 

Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
My 3D printed antenna is extremely fragile, so I decided to try making one out of brass tubing and washers. It worked much better than I was expecting! The process was pretty simple, mostly just soldering and sanding/polishing.
The hardest part was drilling the ID of the washers to the correct size. I ended up soldering a stack of washers together (super glue wasn't strong enough), placing the stack inside the drill press chuck, and very slowly bringing the chuck down over a stationary drill bit. Once the ID was correct, I melted the solder and separated them.
Many washers died to bring us this information.
LJ9v4sHa_o.jpg


cwdM4wJ9_o.jpg

GvSJ5Zjx_o.jpg
 

Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
I have an idea for the eyes-
xbPrRNMJ_o.jpg


Brass tubing is really hard to find, but copper tubing is everywhere.
I used to work at a science museum, and we did a demonstration called Gold Pennies. The basic idea is that you plate zinc onto a copper penny, then heat it so that the zinc combines with the copper to form brass plating.
Alchemy1.jpg


So, can I scale this up, and use it to brass plate larger pieces of copper?
I don't have the chemicals that are usually used (ZnCL2, NaOH), so I tried to use electrolysis with a NaCl solution to plate the zinc on the copper-
PMJYsn5J_o.jpg


but I didn't get a shiny silver part-
TTPIjsnG_o.jpg

I heated it anyway, but no brass. I tried a few more experiments with electrolysis, but no luck (see copper fitting in first image). Next time I will try using oven cleaner as a source of NaOH, and try the more typical experiment.

In other news, I switched my 3D printer from a 0.4 mm to 0.8 mm nozzle, so I can print stronger parts faster. That took a couple weeks of trouble shooting, but I'm getting decent prints now.

I did complete one very important piece of hardware-
pvXZHN9n_o.jpg
 

Hammer3246

Sr Member
Looking terrific! I plan on starting this soon myself as a static display, I was curious what your settings are with the .8mm nozzle?
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
How have I missed this?!?!

This is nuts! I’ve wanted a red 3po arm since TFA came out. I just recently learned about Jessie’s files, but how on earth did you get gordon’s band files?! I didn’t think he shared anything?

Have you been keeping track of print times? I’m just curious, I know your average proton pack print takes around 200 hours, I can’t imagine the large print times

That printer is really large too!! What a setup!

You more then half way done! Can you tell I’m excited over this?! Lol

Reall outstanding work!
 

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Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys!
Hammer3246
eSun PETG, Black
  • 0.8 mm Nozzle
  • 0.5 mm Layer Height
  • 2 Walls
  • 2 Bottom layers, 3 top layers
  • 30% Infill
  • 30% Infill Overlap + connect infill lines
  • 227° C Extruder
  • 85° C Bed
  • 115% Flow
  • 4 mm Retraction
  • 30 mm/sec Print Speed
  • 100% Cooling
  • 1.5 mm Support X/Y distance
  • 0.5 mm Support Z Distance
Moisture in the filament was the biggest problem I had. Filament that worked fine with the 0.4 mm nozzle, would crackle and hiss as it came out of the 0.8 mm nozzle, creating a blistered texture and weak prints. I ended up building a filament dryer. I dry the spools for around 4 hours (even new spools that are fresh out of the box), During printing, I leave the dryer running and feed the filament from the dryer to the printer. The prints are much nicer now.

Halliwax
Gordon shared his hand files here.
I don't have a total print time, but my first print was almost 1.5 months ago. When I was using the 0.4 nozzle, a typical print would take around 30 hours (the back half of the head was 40 hours). The 0.8 nozzle cut the time in half, and the prints are much stronger.
I love my CR-10, 12" x 12" x 15" build space!
 

Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member

PeeWeeFan

Well-Known Member
C_W, would you mind giving your body build or thoughts on it? Just wondering what the proper sizing might be for myself if I decide to dive into this. Personally, I am 5'11" and 185 lbs if you could give some advice on scaling of the models.
 
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Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
I'm 5' 10", 165 lbs
Head - 23 1/4". At 100% scale, I couldn't get the head to close. At 105% it feels a little loose, and I can wear it with glasses.
Chest - 39". At 105%, the chest is very tight, I may reprint at 106% if I feel ambitious.
Waist - 32". At 105%, I couldn't get the shorts past my hips. I removed most of the waist return edge, now I can just barely get them past my hips, but once they are on, the fit is a little loose.
Arms - At 100%, the upper arm is pretty tight, the forearm is big. 105% the upper arm fits pretty well, the forearm is huge. 106% is too big.
Legs - At 105%, they are too long. Reprinting with X and Y at 105%, and Z at 95%
Hands - Still testing
Feet - Still testing
 
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RoCKo

Sr Member
Can you estimate what the complete 3-PO will cost or even single parts like the head?

That’s at least a whole lotta printing time, huh? :(
 

Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
These are the estimates I've been using-
Head - 2 spools, 3 days
Torso - 4 spools, 5 days
Arms (both) - 2 spools, 2 days
Shorts - 2 spools, 2 days
Legs (both) - 7 spools, 10 days
Feet (both) - 1 spool, 2 days
Hands (both) - 1/2 spool, 1 day

18 spools total, at $25 USD/spool = $450
25 days of printing
 

Mulbin

Member
That washer antenna is great! Could you give a full part list for it so I can get ordering brassware on amazon?! I’ve often wondered if there is a good combination of compression fittings that would make arm pistons.
 

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