lellimecnar

New Member
I've always wanted a screen accurate Vader helmet for display, but I'm not the type to just buy someone else's work, and display it in my home. I've spent the last couple of years working on finishing my basement and building a high end home theater because when someone says "Oh, that's awesome! Where did you get it?" I want to reply, "I made it myself!"

So, I've been searching for the most accurate 3D print model of a Vader helmet I could find, and finally printed this one from 3D Print Armory:

I printed it with an 0.8mm nozzle, and a very high layer height, with the plan of smoothing it with a soldering iron. Well, I pretty quickly discovered that, with the right temperature, and the right tips, I could actually "sculpt" the plastic to my liking.

I've looked up as many reference images as I could find, and I've started going frame-by-frame through ROTJ in 4K, boosting brightness/contrast/gamma, to get every little detail I can find.

I feel like I'm on the right track, but I'd like some input from the experts here before I get too "cocky."

Printed in black PETG on the Anycubic Chiron with 0.8mm nozzle, and 0.6mm layer height. Sculpted with a soldering iron at 300° C, and with a culinary torch.
 

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It's amazing what one can achieve these days with 3D sculpting and printing ... this will become a nice Vader replica once painted ... and lellimecnar welcome aboard :)

Chaïm
 
Yeah... I probably should've gotten the rest of the mask all nice and pretty before I attached the mesh and lenses, but I just couldn't help myself!!!! They're just held in with hot glue, so I can easily remove them if/when I need to. And the tusks are threaded, so they can just be unscrewed.

I'm really liking where this is heading! I'm thinking about using XTC-3D to smooth the surface once I get the shapes perfect, but I'm kinda scared... Once I do that, I won't be able to make any "fixes" with the soldering iron or torch, and the epoxy surface is gonna be a lot harder to work with...
 

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Yeah... I probably should've gotten the rest of the mask all nice and pretty before I attached the mesh and lenses, but I just couldn't help myself!!!! They're just held in with hot glue, so I can easily remove them if/when I need to. And the tusks are threaded, so they can just be unscrewed.

I'm really liking where this is heading! I'm thinking about using XTC-3D to smooth the surface once I get the shapes perfect, but I'm kinda scared... Once I do that, I won't be able to make any "fixes" with the soldering iron or torch, and the epoxy surface is gonna be1 a lot harder to work with...
The thing is that most of that epoxie texture you'll wanna keep and any tiny flaws you may get from the resin inbetween the tubes may actually result in something more accurate and the resin surface has that 'sculpted look' to it for example this image of the incredible RO helmet by Bookface and CSmclaren has it on the dome that sort of wavy not so flat surface of the originals the epoxie will help with that a great deal if mostly unsanded.
-Quasimodo-ANH-Vader-Painted-In-Rogue-One-Style-02.jpg
 
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