Limited Run [BRRogers/Verity Cosplay/7 Chambers] "Mom of All Heroes" ORDERING

[Verity Cosplay]

Oh yeah, that's totally what I meant! I was just excited and am bad at explaining lol. I'm saying it'll be easy with the pogo pins for chassis removal, and then you can also have the reveal board on top for the canon internals, and this awesomely designed board makes it that much easier, which is super cool to me because I have been pondering this for a few months now. Truly awesome work. This is gonna make one hell of a Hero!

EDIT: Also yeah, a separate board with some SMDs for a power led graph would be awesome

I am happy to post it on OSHpark once I design it and confirm it works. While not intended to specifically do so, the helper board has some pins that could be used for expansion. Like... if you run the arrows as a single chain and cut the jumper to the second data line you could actually run a pixel chain on a top board and power it off the power shared with the arrow pixels. I know this would work for proffieboards since that allows for shared power pins. I don't know if it would work with CFX and the like unless they supported shared power pins with different data lines.

yes in theory you could do a chassis removal using pogos. That is close to what we are thinking for chassis design anyway. I have not really worked out that setup tho because you don't want the act of removing it to cause a current jump. I need to look into this more. One thing we have been toying with is something like the grandmaster chassis that is on a series of sleds and magnets that allow it to fully be removed. The chamber is designed to thread into the body so that is not meant to remove once installed.

 

[Sieg]

I am happy to post it on OSHpark once I design it and confirm it works. While not intended to specifically do so, the helper board has some pins that could be used for expansion. Like... if you run the arrows as a single chain and cut the jumper to the second data line you could actually run a pixel chain on a top board and power it off the power shared with the arrow pixels. I know this would work for proffieboards since that allows for shared power pins. I don't know if it would work with CFX and the like unless they supported shared power pins with different data lines.

yes in theory you could do a chassis removal using pogos. That is close to what we are thinking for chassis design anyway. I have not really worked out that setup tho because you don't want the act of removing it to cause a current jump. I need to look into this more. One thing we have been toying with is something like the grandmaster chassis that is on a series of sleds and magnets that allow it to fully be removed. The chamber is designed to thread into the body so that is not meant to remove once installed.

That would be awesome if you post it on oshpark! I don't quite know enough to make pcbs yet, but I definitely understand them a fair amount after making more challenging sabers with the proffieboard, so that would be very appreciated. I'm definitely going for proffie on this and every saber I can foresee building for sure. I hadn't really considered the current jump, so that makes sense to keep it fixed. So if I'm following you, the soundboard holder will be under control box/helper board, so it would have a removable speaker module setup for board access allowing for the rest of the upper space to be crystal reveal?

 

[Verity Cosplay]

Well I know there are ways to do a full chassis removal without current jump I just need to look into how it is done. The Creepy uncle chassis from Goth does this I think.

the helper and reveal boards sit IN the control box. The main saber board would be in the body of the saber. The MoM breaks at the point of where the main body narrows into the Pommel so there is potentially room to access the board and recharge port etc. from that available space without taking off the speaker. Honesty I am not a fan of speaker modules that come off but on some sabers it is unavoidable.

what I am hoping is coming up with a way to allow the connections but be able to remove the entire chassis behind the chamber. But I have not yet started designing the chassis itself. The intention will definitely be intricate metal bits just like the chamber though.

I'll definitely keep everyone posted as that is designed.

 

[BRRogers]

Sorry I don’t have a lemon colored backdrop

edit:
Apparently I do actually

 

[Verity Cosplay]

Bigger showcase coming in part 2 with entirely hilt screen time instead of my mug, but here is the intro vid. Mostly review for everyone here but it does show a compare to the UH.

 

[awhite89]

Oh man you guys even nailed the little details I've missed in the past like the little circle on the upper emitter ring. I've never seen that before now. The end of this year is going to be a good one in between mando season 2, this and a few other runs going on.

As far as goths creepy uncle chassis goes I can shed some light on it since I've installed a couple of them. The 2 main parts are setup as part 1 being the bottom and it holds the battery, speaker and a pcb to connect both those components via pogo pins to part 2. Part 2 is held in place with a set screw under the control box and has a slot for wires from the control box to slide through up to the board which is housed inside the grenade grip. Part 2 holds the board and 2 pcbs on the top and bottom, 1 on the bottom for the battery and speaker and the other on top for neopixel connections to the emitter.

I hope that helps a little bit

 

[Verity Cosplay]

Oh man you guys even nailed the little details I've missed in the past like the little circle on the upper emitter ring. I've never seen that before now. The end of this year is going to be a good one in between mando season 2, this and a few other runs going on.

As far as goths creepy uncle chassis goes I can shed some light on it since I've installed a couple of them. The 2 main parts are setup as part 1 being the bottom and it holds the battery, speaker and a pcb to connect both those components via pogo pins to part 2. Part 2 is held in place with a set screw under the control box and has a slot for wires from the control box to slide through up to the board which is housed inside the grenade grip. Part 2 holds the board and 2 pcbs on the top and bottom, 1 on the bottom for the battery and speaker and the other on top for neopixel connections to the emitter.

I hope that helps a little bit

Yeah the "circle" we discovered is actually a slotted screw where the slot has been ground down and filled with paint. Some people may want to drill and tap it for the actual screw but we did a small milling depression super shallow to achieve the look and it doubles as a guiding location for those who actually want to drill and tap it.

posts in the research thread demonstrate the evidence and discussion of this.

 

[BRRogers]

alright gang. Here’s what we get with ace Antique Gold, the provided/swapped aluminum windvane, and a bit of copper tape/ shark grey paint on the rails.
Im working pretty quickly to make sure this all looks correct

 

[gschram92]

Do you think there could be an option for having the aluminum swapped windvane accurately pre-painted?

 

[teecrooz]

Do you think there could be an option for having the aluminum swapped windvane accurately pre-painted?

The tricky part is you also have to paint these surfaces of separate parts when it’s assembled to be accurate.

 

[gschram92]

The tricky part is you also have to paint these surfaces of separate parts when it’s assembled to be accurate.

Ahhh I see. So it's not really "swappable" but more you have the choice between the two? Once you decide the painted route you are sort of committed.

 

[zjunlimited]

Ahhh I see. So it's not really "swappable" but more you have the choice between the two? Once you decide the painted route you are sort of committed.

Yeah...I think if you really wanted to swap between different necks...say on a rotating basis...then you could just paint the neck and call it close enough and not worry about the “spill over” sections. Otherwise you pick what you like and have extra necks for a rainy day or to sell off.

 

[gschram92]

Yeah...I think if you really wanted to swap between different necks...say on a rotating basis...then you could just paint the neck and call it close enough and not worry about the “spill over” sections. Otherwise you pick what you like and have extra necks for a rainy day or to sell off.

Fair enough. Certainly not complaining. Just trying to understand. I think painted certainly looks closer to the movie. As nice as real brass looks. Getting an identical patina could be difficult.

 

[BRRogers]

Fair enough. Certainly not complaining. Just trying to understand. I think painted certainly looks closer to the movie. As nice as real brass looks. Getting an identical patina could be difficult.

Thanks for the question!
( 1.) The necks provided are going to copper, aluminum, and BRONZE.

(I bring this up specifically because brass alone tends to have a yellow green hue and is unsightly for this application in my opinion, it doesn’t naturally patina to a warm tone whereas bronze does. Part of my work-through of this sample is to ensure these selections work and look as intended given some guidance)

The Aluminum neck will be the ‘most canon’ option, but we recognize some people will probably have a preference in the way that they color block and paint their saber.. or the selection of color tones they are going for based on their preferred reference (so much of the reference is different).

(2.) ...That translates to DIY endeavor no matter how you spin it; a very easy one if you know how to tape off and use spraypaint or airbrushes. I finished off that particular neck combo in two heavy coats spread out over the course of the workday after a quick job taping and the results are great (based on the Atlanta Ga. weather we have anyway).

(3.) Yes. IF you assemble the aluminum windvane with the components and choose to spray them together as I did you will have committed to that setup. Part of the paint job is heavy-spraying to fill in the seams in order to approximate the look of the solid static. Once you do that there is no disassembly unless you’re ok with stripping it and doing it all over again.

 

[gschram92]

Thanks for the question!
( 1.) The necks provided are going to copper, aluminum, and BRONZE.

(I bring this up specifically because brass alone tends to have a yellow green hue and is unsightly for this application in my opinion, it doesn’t naturally patina to a warm tone whereas bronze does. Part of my work-through of this sample is to ensure these selections work and look as intended given some guidance)

The Aluminum neck will be the ‘most canon’ option, but we recognize some people will probably have a preference in the way that they color block and paint their saber.. or the selection of color tones they are going for based on their preferred reference (so much of the reference is different).

(2.) ...That translates to DIY endeavor no matter how you spin it; a very easy one if you know how to tape off and use spraypaint or airbrushes. I finished off that particular neck combo in two heavy coats spread out over the course of the workday after a quick job taping and the results are great (based on the Atlanta Ga. weather we have anyway).

(3.) Yes. IF you assemble the aluminum windvane with the components and choose to spray them together as I did you will have committed to that setup. Part of the paint job is heavy-spraying to fill in the seams in order to approximate the look of the solid static. Once you do that there is no disassembly unless you’re ok with stripping it and doing it all over again.

Wow thank you for such a detailed response! I didn’t know it was three necks. Now there is more to think about haha.

Thanks again!

 

[TheJediSmuggler]

Out of curiosity, do you guys have any plans on making a Luke V2 once you're current runs are completed? You've done such great work, so I was wondering if you'd make an attempt to make the "ultimate" V2.

 

[BRRogers]

Out of curiosity, do you guys have any plans on making a Luke V2 once you're current runs are completed? You've done such great work, so I was wondering if you'd make an attempt to make the "ultimate" V2.

There have been some very. intentional. discussions with other board members and experts... and are excited about some future run opportunities that could potentially pair very well in a display series with the Hero.

Not to speak for Adam but that’s all I’m willing to say ATM

 

[TheJediSmuggler]

There have been some very. intentional. discussions with other board members and experts... and are excited about some future run opportunities that could potentially pair very well in a display series with the Hero.

Not to speak for Adam but that’s all I’m willing to say ATM

I see. Well, I'll be looking forward to all your future runs

I'd be in the Leia run if I had some cash to spare, maybe there's still some hope for later haha.

 

[Verity Cosplay]

sorry for some of the focus issues guys. My settings must be off but after 6 takes. I am calling it. Haha

 

[awhite89]

You guys absolutely killed it, that hidden sound vented pommel is a beauty