Behemoth Head sculpt from start to finish (tons of progress pictures!)

LunaticNic · Jan 27, 2016

Alright, thanks again for the encouraging words and tips, just mixed up some ultracal, and poured the first half to the the left mandible mold. Added some burlap, and when the time comes to do the second half I'll make sure to add some petroleum jelly, and then wait lol

MasterAnubis · Jan 27, 2016

*another warning*
Small keys like that will bite you in the ass. That works for silicone molds but not stone molds. They will either lock your mold or break off.

I like to be a little more "landscapey" with small molds. You can vary the level of the mold one good time and they will be keyed together really well. I found the pic I was looking for. This is the 1/6 scale dread mold I made as a test. The 'dot' keys didn't work well because of variations. They need to be shallow and wider do work without locking. In the end this mold keys together really well but the edges of the holes in the keys where chipped a little. This mold is made from an Ultracal and is pretty thin with no reinforcement.

Wreav · Jan 27, 2016

Note, D - Tonks did use alot of Ultra Cal. Had a chat to him about it he said he would of used alot less plaster with the experience he has now. It's mainly down to the curing process I guess. I personally would use a fibre glass mold to cast my latex. However, each to his own, the plaster route would take 1-2 weeks to cure. There is alot of waiting involved depending on the temperature. When I made my plaster molds of mandibles for my first mask, I placed the plaster beside a heater it took 2 weeks to fully cure and dry before I could take it apart I place breathe hole (with a tooth pick at the base) the external area was dry however, when I placed my tooth pick inside it was still wet. Vaseline works wonders. I use ease release 200 from smooth on, I also place a layer of baby powder over my item, then to top it off some petroleum jelly at the hardest to release areas. So if it was on my bust it would be the inner mouth, nose, ect. Like Spgfx said, Burlap is great for reinforcing plaster.
Wow this post didn't send rip. I'll post this up anyway.

spgfx · Jan 28, 2016

I was under the impression from my research that a stone mold was standard for latex. There bulk and weight do make them hard to slush cast though. Could you please explain exactly the fiberglass mold process ? A lightweight option would good.

Also as far as cute time. I made my mask mold with ultra cal 30 and it was fully cured overnight and it's a pretty think mold. I know Nic is using a home brew ultracal are you also ? A 1-2 week cure time must be crazy. A compete mold must take a month ?

Wreav · Jan 28, 2016

A fibre glass mold is very popular in the UK. As we do not have Ultra Cal. Stone Mold sap out the amonia in the latex and is good but lasts just a fraction of the time a fibre glass mold does.
The way I created a mold made from fibre glass is first I places the dividers then sprayed the release agent ease release 200, then a small beauty coat of resin after this step I used fibre glass strands/netting ect with a resin laminating brush I brushed it onto the mold and hey presto after about 4 I had a fibre glass mold note this was just for mandibles that's about it both sides. I believe this is fairly similar to the way people such as Lee Hurley could create silicone torso's ect using fibreglass.
I used Tiranti Plaster, took a while to dry. Hence why I do not like working with plaster as it's just too time consuming. For me, I prefer the fibre glass route.
I believe there is a course on how to fibreglass on the stan winston school of arts.

spgfx · Jan 28, 2016

Thanks for the info, I will have to try this on my next mold for latex. It sounds a lot easier and lighter. At what time do you apply the second coat. Do you let the beauty coat harden up to prevent the glass mat from disturbing it ?

MasterAnubis · Jan 28, 2016

There is a difference in how you work with latex in the two types of molds. It won't be anytime soon that I'll make a fiberglass mold to do latex. But I've slowly moved away from latex in favor of experimenting with silicone. I did do a latex pull from my urethane mold but it was a bit of a letdown. I won't put latex anywhere near my epoxy mold.

About the stone molds, don't get the cure time and dry time confused. The gypsum products are a water activated chemical process. When it's done it's all wet and will take time to fully dry. That doesn't mean you can't use it to cast, it just means it's drying. Here in Arizona I spritz my molds with a little water before casting anyway. Our humidity can get extremely low and one school of thought is that it helps start the wicking process.

Ultimately, I think that the fiberglass molds end up being a little more work to cast but they do last longer if done right and cared for, especially if it's epoxy and not polyester. If you can get a good stone mold made and then a master copy to re mold later, you'll be in good shape to have your mold last and ability to make another mold when necessary. It'll take some experience to determine which you prefer.

LunaticNic · Jan 28, 2016

Well, it for some reason seems a tad bit brittle ... I believe I need to get the mix down better (in case I never said it I'm not using actual Ultracal30, but mixing Portland cement and plaster paris in a 1:3 ratio to recreate Ultracal30) I can still easily make indentations with my fingernail.

On a side note, this may be late, but it's nice to see you back Master Anubis lol haven't seen you in a while

MasterAnubis · Jan 28, 2016

Thanks, it's good to be back. I've looked around every now and then but most of my pics and group stuff ended up on Facebook. I look for issues I might be able to help with mostly. I don't like giving out bad or incomplete advice and that's easy to do over the internet, so I don't join in.

The USG (that makes it) had a good supplier map that seem to have gotten convoluted since I looked at it last. I know Reynolds Advanced Materials stocks it now because I have one local. I don't think I would have even tried mixing it up myself. That's one reason I ended up starting with a Hydrocal (FGR-95). The properties are very different and I developed different techniques that aren't needed with Ultracal 30.

Pred Haster · Jan 31, 2016

Hang on !!

LunaticNic · Feb 7, 2016

Used some cardboard this time, now mixing up the plaster.

Isubomo · Feb 7, 2016

*fingers crossed

LunaticNic · Feb 9, 2016

Still waiting for the mandible to cure, Howeverdue to the fact o don't have high hopes for it I decided something was off with Behemoth. .. I made some new lower mandible teeth, and am allot happier. .. I also moved the lower Mandible teeth to the top ... and I really like the look! Currently molding the new teeth