ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

I know some are asking for pics as we go along so here are some mods I've been doing to the base frame to make it look more like the real HERO c96.

Not done yet, just in progress...

Note: these pics were taken with a macro lens for detail so there is some distortion.

Along with removing all the casting marks and parting lines...
Reduce mag well hump.
reshape trigger guard blending
redefine rear or frame and sharpen details
Re cut the ejection port scallops and resized to match HERO
fit barrel
added machining marks and cuts on top of rails
soldiered and filled front section of the top of the rail and put in the rounded transition
Filled in/soldiered "square" stripper clip holes and will recut round HERO type.
added surface details to the mount and FH
added details to the rear sight, reshaped and rounded housing and clean up. Re cut number details to better match HERO/Mauser style old world numbers.

mgcmods2postcopy.jpg
 
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Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

GREAT WORK man :thumbsup

What was the main tool you used?
File, dremel, sanding paper....

Markus
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

I noticed that the metal discolors over time but not the solder.
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Awesome as usual. Can you post links to hi-res pics so we can better see the details?
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

The color looks very nice- bravo!

It's not 'pitting' but rather 'flaking' of the top layer of the die cast.

I've got many full metal MGC pistol replicas from the 60's & early 70's, and it just gets worse over time.

You might want to consider lighting sanding it down to prevent/ slowdown the flaking.

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Clutch said:
The bluing at first looks like a dull gray-blue. You really have to work with it to get a good result. I got the steel sleeve today. You are right, it sits out too far without filing on an MGC. Here is my replacement trigger after refinishing with BC. Of course, the pitting looks way worse here than in person.

triggernew.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

I'd be interested in 4 wooden sets of 32 line grips fitted for the MGC version.
Hope you can make it so.

kpax said:
just curious about grips.

How much interest would there be in a set of wood replacement grips for the MGC? Not Mauser grips that you would have to reduce the metal on the MGC, but a straight replacement.

There could also be the Mauser sized version as well.

use the existing hardware or get the replacement screw kit.

I was asking Dave if he could/would do grips and he said he would if there was enough interest
Click to expand...
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Hey Mike....when did you return of the surface of "prop-world"???

WELCOME BACK BUDDY :thumbsup

Markus :)
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Well done on fixing that pistol up, Pat!

You know that you can replace the rear leaf sight w/ a real steel version w/ only 1 modification to the MGC die cast.

Note that it pivots on a pin that is removable.
A real steel sight has that pin integral to the part.
You just need to cut a small groove in the slot where the sight slides in.
Fits perfectly!

And then you use the same MGC spring to keep it in place.
While this may take a bit of patience to install, it explains why the Japanese made the sight as they did: ease of assembly.

I have a few, as well as a few triggers.
Perhaps I should put them up for sale in the Junkyard.
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Clutch said:
I noticed that the metal discolors over time but not the solder.
Click to expand...

mgoob said:
The color looks very nice- bravo!

It's not 'pitting' but rather 'flaking' of the top layer of the die cast.

I've got many full metal MGC pistol replicas from the 60's & early 70's, and it just gets worse over time.

You might want to consider lighting sanding it down to prevent/ slowdown the flaking.

Is that the bluing or surface of the Zamak flaking or is there an clear coating that is flaking?

I was planning to overcoat my blaster with a clear or tinted (blue or black) lacquer. to help keep it from oxidizing. there are some very good ones that are made to spray on raw polished metals like aluminum wheels and outdoor fixtures etc and are very durable...and handle-able!

http://www.permalac.com/product.asp?gclid=CPrW7uDnuLUCFUid4AodvRYAmw
Click to expand...
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

mgoob said:
Well done on fixing that pistol up, Pat!

You know that you can replace the rear leaf sight w/ a real steel version w/ only 1 modification to the MGC die cast.

Note that it pivots on a pin that is removable.
A real steel sight has that pin integral to the part.
You just need to cut a small groove in the slot where the sight slides in.
Fits perfectly!

And then you use the same MGC spring to keep it in place.
While this may take a bit of patience to install, it explains why the Japanese made the sight as they did: ease of assembly.

I have a few, as well as a few triggers.
Perhaps I should put them up for sale in the Junkyard.
Click to expand...

thanks.
Sounds good.

I am reshaping my trigger but will keep it and hide the pins to maintain the function.
I was going to replace the roll pin with a solid.
Like you said, they did that to make it easier I guess.
 
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Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Followed your instructions and took the barrel to the grinding wheel. If you do it this way, you have to have a firm grip and a steady hand. Go slow. I ground off a sliver too much underneath, but I'm satisfied with it. Probably going to blue the bull barrel one more time.

bullfinished.jpg
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

really nice job!

note how the bull barrel fits just the way the real HERO does? There is that very slight lip at the bottom where the receiver rail edge sticks out and does not blend 100 percent. Just like the HERO pics.

I like the power tools tto but like you said... hold tight and go slow.

Can always take off more...hard to put it back.
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Looking good!

Can we get an MGC re-bluing tutorial?
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Clutch said:
Followed your instructions and took the barrel to the grinding wheel. If you do it this way, you have to have a firm grip and a steady hand. Go slow. I ground off a sliver too much underneath, but I'm satisfied with it. Probably going to blue the bull barrel one more time.

bullfinished.jpg
Click to expand...

Which barrel do you have?

My sleeve fits perfectly with zero mods.
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

I have the steel easy sleeve. How far forward is yours?

BTW, after looking, the beveled edges don't look angled enough? Agree?
 
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

Clutch said:
I have the steel easy sleeve. How far forward is yours?

BTW, after looking, the beveled edges don't look angled enough? Agree?
Click to expand...


That is correct. It was done that way to give a better chance to match all 3 style frames since the receivers are a little different.

after fitting I carefully added some bevel to mine with a flat file.
 
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Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies FOUND, Update in 1st Post

OdiWan72 said:
GREAT WORK man :thumbsup

What was the main tool you used?
File, dremel, sanding paper....

Markus
Click to expand...


yes!

I use a Foredom flexy shaft carver tool mostly but have a dremel too. The foredom does not have the RPMs that the dremel has, but is easier to hold steady for fine work since the motor is not in the handle.. I use it to carve acetate models mostly.

That's for quick carving with sanding drums and burrs. Most of this work on the soft Zink I use just a set of OLD files and riffles.

Also a belt sander is great for quick removal of material.

I also use fine sandpaper wrapped around the flat files to maintain flat square edges but don't bother polishing too much on this project because the real Mauser's are so rough with tool marks.
 
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