There's already a light coat of primer.
Im afraid another coat might make it worse. May try the baby powder technique
-
Welcome to the Project Runs Forum!
This forum is intended for interest gauging and active runs. Due to the transient nature of this forum, please keep all research and ongoing discussion in one of our main forums so your information is not lost.
Only Premium Members can start a new run.
Limited Run 3D Scans of 150+ Star Wars Confirmed Donors
- Thread starter Studio Kitbash
- Start date
Im afraid another coat might make it worse. May try the baby powder technique
you could try taking a fine brush, make it damp and get some color on it that won't stain the model. Use the tip of the brush to add lot of little tracking dots by dabbing it. You can get multicolor tracking with no surface lift that way and help the scanner out.
Your first couple of tests look promising. intensity of the light "might" make your edges sharper... its worth a try at least.
Jedi Dade
Sorry for the delay in response to your question....
yea, the yellow blotches we’re bugging me. And some warping. Turns out there was too much natural light ugh.
xeno
Sr Member
Are you scanning also with Texture, do you really need that ?, it makes the files unnecessary bigger.
changing the brightness and contrast does noting for the 3D model, and is only for the texture.
Sharp edges is something even the most expensive 3D scanner have trouble with, I work with the Pro 2X, and if I want sharp edges, I'll have to do that in post processing
Adding more scans per revolution can also can increase the filesize, I always see what parts I am missing and scan again pointing at those surfaces.
Bjorn
Sr Member
xeno, Good points regarding texture, however keep in mind that it is handy only if down the track you may choose to create a solid surface model of the part, as the texture can assist you with locating small features or edges that are soft in the scan result. Like tiny rivets and bolt heads.
Especially for small parts where you are really pushing the limits of the scanner resolution.
A surface model is of course many times smaller compared with a dense mesh result. But you can worry about that stuff when your have the luxury of being up to your neck in scan files.
Nice work Whiskey!
Especially for small parts where you are really pushing the limits of the scanner resolution.
A surface model is of course many times smaller compared with a dense mesh result. But you can worry about that stuff when your have the luxury of being up to your neck in scan files.
Nice work Whiskey!
Small update
Problems I'm running into.
FYI....there is a TON of tiny parts on the 5' Falcon alone. This will take a while.
Problems I'm running into.
- Items that are smaller than a US silver dollar
- flat items
- Dark colored items
- Chrome items
FYI....there is a TON of tiny parts on the 5' Falcon alone. This will take a while.
xeno
Sr Member
For very small items I usually put them on top of another object en separate afterwards, with small items the software sometimes does not scan and align properly, adding a bigger detailed object helps.
Glass and acrylic are better objects to use to put objects on, the scanner really can't see those.
And you might want to invest in some scanning spray for reflective and dark items, they have a spray that dissolves after a few hours.
Scanning dark and glossy items you will have to pay attention, the software can make faults, and you only see the problems after you aligned and saved them, or worse later when you want to work on the files.
better to spray them before scanning.
Sorry for my density -- what is that? And are you saying you "built that" in 15 minutes, or you "scanned that" in 15 minutes?
Is it a background "holder" for objects of decreasing size, that can be digitally separated by the software?
Bjorn
Sr Member
I'm guessing it's a black reflective mount for the small parts so that it won't show up in the scan.
It looks like a miniature version of what they put the model stealth fighters on to see if they are invisible to radar.
Perhaps they should coat stealth fighters in Tamiya green plastic. Ehh...
Sorry, got it: somehow I missed seeing/reading your post #228.
This is exactly that.I'm guessing it's a black reflective mount for the small parts so that it won't show up in the scan.
It looks like a miniature version of what they put the model stealth fighters on to see if they are invisible to radar.
Perhaps they should coat stealth fighters in Tamiya green plastic. Ehh...
I’m attempting to put small and or flat objects to stand closer to the camera without detecting the stand
Whiskey,
Very nice work -- I hope Cantina Dude is reading all this, so that he can pre-emptively fix these problems before he begins scanning.
Very nice work -- I hope Cantina Dude is reading all this, so that he can pre-emptively fix these problems before he begins scanning.
Bjorn
Sr Member
Looks great Whiskey.
Xeno made a really good suggestion in his last post. That is for the really tricky parts, to make a reference piece that is visible to the laser or structured light that had features for easy alignment.
Sometimes it can be a pain to align the scans as some results have few distinguishable features. I was thinking of 3D printing a grid or cross that I can mount small parts to with Blu Tack. Just haven't gotten around to implementing yet.
As also previously suggested, I would be really interested to see if a comercial scan spray would help. Perhaps just test first to make sure that it has no solvents that will dissolve or damage the styrene kit parts!
Xeno made a really good suggestion in his last post. That is for the really tricky parts, to make a reference piece that is visible to the laser or structured light that had features for easy alignment.
Sometimes it can be a pain to align the scans as some results have few distinguishable features. I was thinking of 3D printing a grid or cross that I can mount small parts to with Blu Tack. Just haven't gotten around to implementing yet.
As also previously suggested, I would be really interested to see if a comercial scan spray would help. Perhaps just test first to make sure that it has no solvents that will dissolve or damage the styrene kit parts!
for mounting parts I've used all sorts of random things. Two things I use a lot are CD spindles and those 6 inch figure toy mounts for the japanese toys that plug into their backs to hold them in pose.
toy mounts
toy mounts 2
toy mounts 3
toy mounts 4
toy mounts
toy mounts 2
toy mounts 3
toy mounts 4
