Limited Run 3D Scans of 150+ Star Wars Confirmed Donors

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Cantina_Dude

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
To get organized and hopefully streamline the process of scanning and uploading files I figured I should go through all of the kit parts that Studio Kitbash sent in this first batch and see if I could get all of the pieces identified (source kit name and part number) so I can name my scan files properly from the get go. This first batch of parts is strongly Y-Wing focused, so you'll see most of the parts relate to that model. I laid all the parts out as clearly as possible and photographed the batch, then assigned numbers to each part so as to allow for a spreadsheet to be filled out with all the pertinent details. Here are the photos:

Batch_1_Parts_Reference_Master.jpg

... and with the parts numbered:
Batch_1_Parts_Reference_Master_Numbered.jpg


And some closer views:
Batch_1_Parts_Reference_A.jpg

Batch_1_Parts_Reference_B.jpg

Batch_1_Parts_Reference_C.jpg

Batch_1_Parts_Reference_D.jpg

Batch_1_Parts_Reference_E.jpg

Batch_1_Parts_Reference_F.jpg


So what I need now is for some people who are more knowledgeable about all these kit parts to help fill in all the details. For each part I will need to know the following:

- Kit manufacturer (Airfix, Nichimo, Tamiya, etc.)
- Kit scale
- Kit name (Elefant, Panzer III, KingTiger, etc.)
- Part number

I would also like to get some opinions about if any particular part needs to be "2 sided" or not, as in, when glued on to the Y-Wing model (or whatever the case may be) do you see both sides or just one side of that part. The reason I ask this is I think it will be easier to scan a lot of these smaller parts in small batches glued to a backing plate, essentially making for "1 sided" meshes as the output, once the individual parts are digitally separated from the backing plate of course. So we would obviously lose any detail information from the "back side" of these parts, but if that side isn't valuable to model building, it will make for a lot more efficient scanning and more frequent uploads. So with this in mind, if the knowledgeable folks chiming in with the above requested part information could also let me know if each part has a "good side" or if it needs to be 2 sided. If a particular part does have only one "good side" you can also just let me know if the side visible in my photos is the "good side" or if I need to flip it over.

I have saved a Google Sheet in the Box folder with the framework of the spreadsheet for "Batch 1 Parts Identification" to compile all the information you good people provide. I have taken a quick pass at filling out some of the most obvious things that I recognize at a quick glance, just to start things off. I will ask Studio Kitbash to give the table a once over, but if anyone else has any details to add to the spreadsheet, please let me know!

Batch_1_Parts_ID_Spreadsheet.JPG
 

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ventuoguy

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Extraordinary work Cantinadude!! I wish I had the knowledge base to assist in this endeavor. Fantastic work!! So lovely to see these parts displayed in this fashion.
 

Ogibendogy

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Cantina Dude - nice organization. I like the way you think (y)

I'm 99% sure that all those light blue pieces (176 to 183) are from the Airfix 1/24 Bf109E Messerschmitt.

Item 99 is the Aavid Heatsink.
 

Ogibendogy

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
A few more:

#55 is the Tamiya 1/35 Hanomag 250/1
#59 is the Tamiya 1/35 8RAD Sd.Kfz 232
#94 is the From 1/72 Bristol Beaufighter (I think but not 100%)
#140/141 Aurora 1/93 Sealab III
#226 is the Tamiya 1/35 8RAD Sd.Kfz 232
 

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Cantina_Dude

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks, Ogibendogy! I'll add that info to the spreadsheet! Studio Kitbash is going to send me his first pass on filling out the whole spreadsheet in the next day or two, so hopefully I can get all the info needed to keep things organized.

Thanks again!
 

Cantina_Dude

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I've spent a bit of time this weekend working with the scanner and have so far completed scans of a handful of parts. I've uploaded "full res" and "low res" versions of each watertight STL to the Box folder. Let me know if any of you have downloaded them and tried printing them. Below is a quick render of the pieces that have been uploaded from this first batch of parts so far. These are all the "low res" versions of the scans.

Batch_1_Progress_2021-04-25.png


Beyond doing some test prints of these pieces, it would be nice if any of the folks who have volunteered their 3D modeling skills to take a stab at "remastering" some of these parts. It would be great to use these scans as 3D reference in your modeling software of choice to basically remodel each piece to generate a crisp and clean mesh for each part and output a watertight STL. If you give this a try, let us all know how it goes!
 

Studio Kitbash

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Cantina Dude,

These look really good, and the Hi-Res versions in the folder look even better -- most impressive. Thanks!

And to those who aren't aware of it, just those 8 pieces pictured above represent about $800 worth of greeblies in original confirmed donor kit acquisitions.
 

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ventuoguy

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
That is amazing work CantinaDude- so impressive! A word of caution about 'remastering', and that is a good phrase. Just like any digital enhancement, it can improve resolution and so forth but always introduces some type of idealization or distortion. I would be in favor of 'remixes' of a studioKB greebie if such greeblie if it were damaged or contained an issue not inherent in all examples of that injection molded piece (or the piece that is on the falcon itself :p. It's very exciting indeed to see this progress!
 

Cantina_Dude

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks gang! It's a bit of an involved process, but I'm starting to get a better sense of it all.

Just like any digital enhancement, it can improve resolution and so forth but always introduces some type of idealization or distortion.
I guess you just need to pick your poison; distortion from the scanning process (i.e. softening of edges and added digital artifacts) or distortion from human influence in remastering (i.e. idealization). I would suggest that if a person was remastering a part with non-idealization in mind, asymmetries or other oddities could be incorporated into the new mesh while also delivering the sharp edges and flat surfaces of the original parts. This process would be greatly helped by having the scan mesh occupying the same "space" in your 3D modeling software of choice, rather than just going at an original kit part with some calipers and entering those values into your model. The latter approach would yield more of that idealization you refer to, while the former approach could let the oddities carry through into the remastered mesh. But of course, there will always be some level of artistic interpretation in these things, so results may vary!
 

ventuoguy

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks gang! It's a bit of an involved process, but I'm starting to get a better sense of it all.


I guess you just need to pick your poison; distortion from the scanning process (i.e. softening of edges and added digital artifacts) or distortion from human influence in remastering (i.e. idealization). I would suggest that if a person was remastering a part with non-idealization in mind, asymmetries or other oddities could be incorporated into the new mesh while also delivering the sharp edges and flat surfaces of the original parts. This process would be greatly helped by having the scan mesh occupying the same "space" in your 3D modeling software of choice, rather than just going at an original kit part with some calipers and entering those values into your model. The latter approach would yield more of that idealization you refer to, while the former approach could let the oddities carry through into the remastered mesh. But of course, there will always be some level of artistic interpretation in these things, so results may vary!
Totally agree- good points Cantina. As I don't have the benefit of the knowledge of the software and it seems very complex indeed, I will just let the ones way more advanced than I guide the process and I will just be the cheerleader. Keep up the great work!
 

Jedi Dade

Master Member
I downloaded all the parts and am waiting on a resin order. As soon as it arrives I'll start printing the ones we have so far to make sure they print well... provided any errors are not mine. If they do I will provide the supported sliced files along with the printer settings I used - if the group wishes... but that is a few steps from now.

Jedi Dade
 

xeno

Sr Member
I downloaded all the parts and am waiting on a resin order. As soon as it arrives I'll start printing the ones we have so far to make sure they print well... provided any errors are not mine. If they do I will provide the supported sliced files along with the printer settings I used - if the group wishes... but that is a few steps from now.

Jedi Dade

You can use a program like Meshmixer (free) to check if there are any problems with the file,
and repair when necessary.
 

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Jedi Dade

Master Member
You can use a program like Meshmixer (free) to check if there are any problems with the file,
and repair when necessary.
this is true - except I have ZERO experience with 3D modeling past my lame attempts to cut a larger model into pieces so that I could print it on my Mars... with extremely limited results. If someone would like to give me a tutorial on ANY 3D modeling tool I'd greatly appreciate it. I am computer literate just don't have any clue about the 3D modeling terminology/tools and what they do.

Jedi Dade
 

masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
this is true - except I have ZERO experience with 3D modeling past my lame attempts to cut a larger model into pieces so that I could print it on my Mars... with extremely limited results. If someone would like to give me a tutorial on ANY 3D modeling tool I'd greatly appreciate it. I am computer literate just don't have any clue about the 3D modeling terminology/tools and what they do.

Jedi Dade
I would check out Lycee slicer - Download the latest version of Lychee Slicer 3 for SLA/Resin 3D Printers

They have a series of tutorials on the YouTube on how to get started.

Sean
 

Jedi Dade

Master Member
I have been using the Chitubox slicer for a bit and that is not too difficult. Its the 3D modeling process that I have no clue with.

Unless you're telling me the Lycee slicer is also an editor - past adding supports and drain holes. IF that's the case I'll definitely check it out.

Jedi Dade
 

xeno

Sr Member
this is true - except I have ZERO experience with 3D modeling past my lame attempts to cut a larger model into pieces so that I could print it on my Mars... with extremely limited results. If someone would like to give me a tutorial on ANY 3D modeling tool I'd greatly appreciate it. I am computer literate just don't have any clue about the 3D modeling terminology/tools and what they do.

Jedi Dade
This should get you going, Meshmixer is a very powerfull STL editor, but you need to watch some tutorials to get the hang of it :)

 

sjanish

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm not part of the run, but I want to play. I recognize most of the parts and have most of the kits, but there are a few I do not have/know. Some of the Airfix airplane parts run togehter for me and I can't remember which is which. Hopefully someone will help fill in the blanks.

Here is my stab at IDs for Cantina Dude. I left lots blank even though I know I have the kit. I decided to make it a game and see how many I could get off the top of my head. I'm sure someone can score better and I know I am not 100%, so do not trust any of this without verifying it yourself. I never keep track of the actual kit part number, so sorry, someone else will have to fill those in.

I just went back and did the math. If I got everything I listed correct then I scored a 63%.

If this works right there is an attached text file that is actually a CSV that can be renamed and opened in Excel.
 

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