Winter Soldier Arm Sculpt/Mold

ChickenHaunt

Well-Known Member
Alclad chrome should work pretty well. It's an airbrush model paint. Durability may be a bit lacking, but I do know the real arms suffer from the same problem. You'll do a gloss black, let dry thoroughly, then spray the Alclad. If you put a clear coat on top of chrome, it tends to destroy the chrome effect by disrupting the reflective particles.
 

pitchforknumb

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If you do go the paint route instead of the chrome route, you'll still do a gloss black, and then put your metallic paint on top of that. Then you can use a urethane clear which will really make it shiney. It won't be chrome, but should still be able to see your own reflection in it easily.
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
If you do go the paint route instead of the chrome route, you'll still do a gloss black, and then put your metallic paint on top of that. Then you can use a urethane clear which will really make it shiney. It won't be chrome, but should still be able to see your own reflection in it easily.
Does this apply to the chrome effect paint only? I was thinking about going with a bright silver then clear coating ?
Would that work or just try the chrome effect paint and do what you described?

Thanks for the suggestions
 

pitchforknumb

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
No, the process I stated was for a non-chrome effect. You'll still want a nice glossy black base coat to put your paint on top of. You can get urethane clear coats in a spray can from any auto body paint stores. It won't be as brilliant as chrome, but should be plenty shiney.
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
No, the process I stated was for a non-chrome effect. You'll still want a nice glossy black base coat to put your paint on top of. You can get urethane clear coats in a spray can from any auto body paint stores. It won't be as brilliant as chrome, but should be plenty shiney.
Awesome I was hoping that's what you meant. That might be the route I go with. Sounds like the best compromise between cost/shine/ durability. Thanks!
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
This info helped greatly. I am getting some spray outs on a few shades of "metallic automobile silver" , then will pick the brightest then spay it up, do a little black line detail work, tape off and paint the star. clear coat then done!
 

pitchforknumb

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Just a heads up, I would clear it before you tape off, that way you don't risk pulling up any paint when you take it off. I usually use crystal clear for my in between.
 

Sinned

Well-Known Member
Looking great!

You can pick up a decent starter airbrush from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap, if you want to use the Alclad. Although, that's quite a bit of area to cover with an airbrush. For reference sake, I just put some down on an Immortan Joe mask, and the result is pretty friggin' awesome.

joe-chrome_zpsl3lbje8z.jpg
 
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Malibu139

Well-Known Member
Looking great!

You can pick up a decent starter airbrush from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap, if you want to use the Alclad. Although, that's quite a bit of area to cover with an airbrush. For reference sake, I just put some down on an Immortan Joe mask, and the result is pretty friggin' awesome.
That looks great!
Thanks for all the input everyone. it has been very helpful. I should have this pull finished up soon!
 

ClaireD

New Member
hi ! first, this is an amazing job !
then, once you have it finished, could you post some kind of video with the pictures? I'm really curious about how does it follow the movement of the arm and everything
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
hi ! first, this is an amazing job !
then, once you have it finished, could you post some kind of video with the pictures? I'm really curious about how does it follow the movement of the arm and everything
Thanks for the kind words
I can post a vid (I think) and some pics when finished. however this pull will be rigid with very little movement. It fit me uncut unexpectedly so I am leaving this one rigid.
I do plan making a couple more copies that are cut at the elbow and trimmed on the shoulder area for better articulation. I just wanted to get the whole process (making the copies, prepping, painting...) figured out first.
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
Messing around with taping off the star and its size on an old version of the arm that didn't work out.
This one is at 70% . I think its a tad too big and I have a 65% star printed off that I think will look better.
Does this star look too big, just right?
I think I like the red too.
Should have some progress on the real thing this week.

2015-07-12_13-59-07_82.jpg2015-07-12_14-02-27_138.jpg
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
Thanks welshchris!
Well I took a trip to the paint booth today.
This is coming out so much better than I hoped.
All the advice and help here and on messaging is much appreciated, this is the best forum I have ever been on.
I think the silver metallic with a high gloss clear was the best choice!
Star will be addedon top of clear next week

Sealer/Base black:

2015-07-17_16-59-44_727.jpg
Silver coats:
2015-07-17_17-16-07_277.jpg
Clear coats:
2015-07-17_17-58-50_603.jpg
Final minus star:
2015-07-17_18-16-42_885.jpg2015-07-17_18-17-31_307.jpg
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
Done (or very very close). The star is on and I am really excited about the way it turned out.
I am having to make the arm opening on my vest a little larger. The old arm was foam and had some give, this one doesn't.
I will post some pics of it being worn when I get that fixed.
Again thanks for all the input and help.
This is the reference I was going for:
3938899-008.jpg
2015-07-27_22-10-50_646.jpg2015-07-27_21-34-29_824.jpg2015-07-27_21-38-31_860.jpg2015-07-27_19-07-01_150.jpg
 

Maziack

New Member
I know this might be late but if you still have a couple more arms to complete have you thought of the brushed on aluminum powder that you put on the inside of your mold? You can polish it to be fairly chromy looking, it seems. Vulpin details it in his blog about Sophitia's sword here:

http://www.volpinprops.com/sophitias-omega-sword-soul-calibur-iv/

Not sure about the durability of this powder but it should be good as long as you have a clear coat over top, no?
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the suggestion Maziack. I like the idea of being able to polish it. Can you do this with molds where you are roto casting?
 

pitchforknumb

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You can rotocast with metal powder. It sticks well to silicone. Just make sure you put on a very thin, even layer. You will also want to get some ease release 200 to spray in the mold once you do a cast. The metal powders suck out moisture rapidly, and you'll have a ruined mold after only a couple of casts.
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
You can rotocast with metal powder. It sticks well to silicone. Just make sure you put on a very thin, even layer. You will also want to get some ease release 200 to spray in the mold once you do a cast. The metal powders suck out moisture rapidly, and you'll have a ruined mold after only a couple of casts.
Thanks , I am honestly really, really happy with the way the shiny silver paint with high gloss clear coat came out. Your advice was great and it turned out IMO so good. It is plenty shiny.
I just pulled the second cast to make one that articulates better and think I will keep with the same paint plan.
I really don't want to take the chance of ruining the mold this soon.
 
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