Winter Soldier Arm Sculpt/Mold

Discussion in 'Sculpture and Makeup Effects' started by Malibu139, May 12, 2015.

  1. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Hello, I am not sure this is the right place to post but here goes
    I wanted to make a winter solider arm. Searched some threads and reached out to an awesome member here who helped me a ton (I mea a TON)
    I plastered my arm, filled it with foam filler, sculpted the musculature and lines(almost done) , and then I want to mold/ cast it.
    I have never sculpted or cast anything before so this is a big undertaking for me and may not turn out like I want but I have had loads of fun(and some frustration) to this point.
    I am almost finished with the detail lines on the sculpt and will probably have lots of molding questions so I hope this is the place....
    I hope to start molding in a couple weeks.

    2015-03-20_07-27-37_645.jpg clay arm.jpg 2015-05-02_18-44-43_280.jpg 20150510_191451.jpg
     
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  2. Mr Mold Maker

    Mr Mold Maker Sr Member

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    Very cool so far! Can't wait to see the finished sculpt!
     
  3. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Update, almost finished with the upper arm. might be able to finish the lower arm by the weekend.
    2015-05-13_22-46-39_894.jpg
    I need to get to ordering the materials does this sound right for this size project?

    1 gal rebound 25
    Pigment to distinguish the layers
    Thinner for first coat
    Thickener for last 2 coats

    Sonite wax and mold release(not sure how much of this?)

    1 gall plastipaste or plastipaste 2 for mother mold

    1 gal smoothcast 65D

    Thanks!
     
  4. Nygiant

    Nygiant New Member

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    Looks really cool already!

    hm I haven't worked with a thinner for the first coat yet, but I am really curious about how good it works. Same for the Sonite wax and mold release.
     
  5. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Nygiant. Never done this at all. I was reading the smooth-on site and it suggested a thinner. I have done some searches here and really cant find a definitive answer. There is lots of advise to call smooth- on and discuss the specific project so I will do that. I think I will need the thickener B/C I need to fill an undercut on the opposite side of the picture under the under arm.

    Didn't get to start the lower arm lines yet but I will soon. also I think I will re do the curved lines near the elbow, they are not quite right..
     
  6. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    a little more progress 2015-05-18_23-33-11_818.jpg 2015-05-18_23-34-43_676.jpg
     
  7. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    I think I am 99% finished with the sculpt. I am pretty happy with t he way it turned out. The lines were difficult, it was like a puzzle.
    The next step is clear coat I think. Any suggestions moving forward with the molding process?
    2015-05-24_12-53-17_764.jpg 2015-05-24_12-55-02_847.jpg 2015-05-24_12-55-31_860.jpg 2015-05-24_12-55-44_793.jpg
     
  8. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Molding it. one more layer to smooth it out and add the cut seam. then on to mother mold it
    . 2015-06-14_17-39-45_850.jpg
     
  9. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Mother mold complete, need to add fasteners and I will be ready to cast soon.

    2015-06-20_22-53-52_35.jpg . 2015-06-19_20-42-11_788.jpg 2015-06-20_11-08-25_426.jpg
     
  10. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    I de-molded the silicone from the sculpt and it seems to be in good shape and useable. (whew!)
    I have never done this so I was hoping for some suggestions if possible for the first cast.
    I have smooth on 65d for the roto cast.

    1. I think I need to clean the mold first. It has some small particles from the plaster base sculpt and the mother mold material . What do I clean it with?
    2. I am planning on painting the cast. Is it ok to use mann ease 200 on the mold before casting?
    3. With the large opening for the shoulder and arm do I just have to be really careful while casting to get good coverage and not spill?

    Any help is appreciated, thanks
     
  11. imnotahero

    imnotahero Active Member

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    With the size and shape of that mold, and since it's your first time doing this: You are going to make a mess. Cover the table or area your working in, give yourself some space. My suggestion would be to pour in the 65d against the inside walls of the mold so you start with pretty decent coverage, then let a bunch of it pool in the shoulder area and use a disposable chip brush to brush it up to the edges of the mold. You're going to want to do the last part fairly quickly as 65d cures quicker when its warm and 65d gives off heat as it cures. So a pool of it cures faster than a thin film of it.
     
  12. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a lot for the tips imnotahero, I like the brush idea, hadn't thought of that for the shoulder area.
     
  13. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    There was definitely a mess but not too much excess spill except on the first pass. Brushing up the side of the shoulder/open part was great advice and saved a lot off mess for me thanks again imnotahero. I will know in a couple hours how it went
    . 2015-06-22_12-18-43_784.jpg
     
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  14. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Just pulled the first cast . About as good as I could have hoped, actually way better than I could have imagined. I cant believe it really.
    . 2015-06-22_18-53-35_970.jpg 2015-06-22_18-54-11_184.jpg
     
  15. Mr Mold Maker

    Mr Mold Maker Sr Member

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    Great work! Looks like the pull came out great.
     
  16. imnotahero

    imnotahero Active Member

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    Glad I could help. Looks great!
     
  17. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again imnotahero and mr mold maker!
    Well it fits! I wasn't expecting it to go on without cutting it in two pieces(at the elbow) however with some lube and finagling I was able to get it on.
    I might just leave this pull as a one-piece and experiment with future pulls.
    After 3 months of this its a relief that it fits relatively well.

    2015-06-28_10-38-09_844.jpg 2015-06-28_10-36-47_483.jpg 2015-06-28_10-33-45_863.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2015
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  18. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Wet sanded to 800. Next I plan on laying down the gloss black before the chrome paint.
    planning star size and placement as well, I think this is pretty close though.

    2015-07-04_10-12-28_767.jpg 2015-07-04_10-09-52_546.jpg
     
  19. pitchforknumb

    pitchforknumb Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is turning out really badass man. Looking forward to seeing the final piece.
     
  20. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks !
    I am struggling with the painting. Seems chrome effect rattle can paint and even airbrush is a compromise between shine/durability/handling.
    I cant find a local place that chromes plastic and it is probably too costly anyway.
    Tomorrow I am going to a good local auto paint shop and checking out the brightest silver I can find and then clear coating in gloss for shine and durability.
    Does that sound like a decent compromise?
    Any other suggestions?
     
  21. ChickenHaunt

    ChickenHaunt Well-Known Member

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    Alclad chrome should work pretty well. It's an airbrush model paint. Durability may be a bit lacking, but I do know the real arms suffer from the same problem. You'll do a gloss black, let dry thoroughly, then spray the Alclad. If you put a clear coat on top of chrome, it tends to destroy the chrome effect by disrupting the reflective particles.
     
  22. pitchforknumb

    pitchforknumb Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If you do go the paint route instead of the chrome route, you'll still do a gloss black, and then put your metallic paint on top of that. Then you can use a urethane clear which will really make it shiney. It won't be chrome, but should still be able to see your own reflection in it easily.
     
  23. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Does this apply to the chrome effect paint only? I was thinking about going with a bright silver then clear coating ?
    Would that work or just try the chrome effect paint and do what you described?

    Thanks for the suggestions
     
  24. pitchforknumb

    pitchforknumb Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No, the process I stated was for a non-chrome effect. You'll still want a nice glossy black base coat to put your paint on top of. You can get urethane clear coats in a spray can from any auto body paint stores. It won't be as brilliant as chrome, but should be plenty shiney.
     
  25. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome I was hoping that's what you meant. That might be the route I go with. Sounds like the best compromise between cost/shine/ durability. Thanks!
     
  26. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    This info helped greatly. I am getting some spray outs on a few shades of "metallic automobile silver" , then will pick the brightest then spay it up, do a little black line detail work, tape off and paint the star. clear coat then done!
     
  27. pitchforknumb

    pitchforknumb Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just a heads up, I would clear it before you tape off, that way you don't risk pulling up any paint when you take it off. I usually use crystal clear for my in between.
     
  28. Sinned

    Sinned Well-Known Member

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    Looking great!

    You can pick up a decent starter airbrush from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap, if you want to use the Alclad. Although, that's quite a bit of area to cover with an airbrush. For reference sake, I just put some down on an Immortan Joe mask, and the result is pretty friggin' awesome.

    joe-chrome_zpsl3lbje8z.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  29. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    That looks great!
    Thanks for all the input everyone. it has been very helpful. I should have this pull finished up soon!
     
  30. ClaireD

    ClaireD New Member

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    hi ! first, this is an amazing job !
    then, once you have it finished, could you post some kind of video with the pictures? I'm really curious about how does it follow the movement of the arm and everything
     
  31. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the kind words
    I can post a vid (I think) and some pics when finished. however this pull will be rigid with very little movement. It fit me uncut unexpectedly so I am leaving this one rigid.
    I do plan making a couple more copies that are cut at the elbow and trimmed on the shoulder area for better articulation. I just wanted to get the whole process (making the copies, prepping, painting...) figured out first.
     
  32. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Messing around with taping off the star and its size on an old version of the arm that didn't work out.
    This one is at 70% . I think its a tad too big and I have a 65% star printed off that I think will look better.
    Does this star look too big, just right?
    I think I like the red too.
    Should have some progress on the real thing this week.

    2015-07-12_13-59-07_82.jpg 2015-07-12_14-02-27_138.jpg
     
  33. welshchris

    welshchris New Member

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    Wow this project is looking great Malibu139, hope the paint job works out for you :)
     
  34. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks welshchris!
    Well I took a trip to the paint booth today.
    This is coming out so much better than I hoped.
    All the advice and help here and on messaging is much appreciated, this is the best forum I have ever been on.
    I think the silver metallic with a high gloss clear was the best choice!
    Star will be addedon top of clear next week

    Sealer/Base black:

    2015-07-17_16-59-44_727.jpg
    Silver coats:
    2015-07-17_17-16-07_277.jpg
    Clear coats:
    2015-07-17_17-58-50_603.jpg
    Final minus star:
    2015-07-17_18-16-42_885.jpg 2015-07-17_18-17-31_307.jpg
     
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  35. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Done (or very very close). The star is on and I am really excited about the way it turned out.
    I am having to make the arm opening on my vest a little larger. The old arm was foam and had some give, this one doesn't.
    I will post some pics of it being worn when I get that fixed.
    Again thanks for all the input and help.
    This is the reference I was going for:
    3938899-008.jpg
    2015-07-27_22-10-50_646.jpg 2015-07-27_21-34-29_824.jpg 2015-07-27_21-38-31_860.jpg 2015-07-27_19-07-01_150.jpg
     
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  36. Maziack

    Maziack New Member

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    I know this might be late but if you still have a couple more arms to complete have you thought of the brushed on aluminum powder that you put on the inside of your mold? You can polish it to be fairly chromy looking, it seems. Vulpin details it in his blog about Sophitia's sword here:

    http://www.volpinprops.com/sophitias-omega-sword-soul-calibur-iv/

    Not sure about the durability of this powder but it should be good as long as you have a clear coat over top, no?
     
  37. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion Maziack. I like the idea of being able to polish it. Can you do this with molds where you are roto casting?
     
  38. pitchforknumb

    pitchforknumb Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You can rotocast with metal powder. It sticks well to silicone. Just make sure you put on a very thin, even layer. You will also want to get some ease release 200 to spray in the mold once you do a cast. The metal powders suck out moisture rapidly, and you'll have a ruined mold after only a couple of casts.
     
  39. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks , I am honestly really, really happy with the way the shiny silver paint with high gloss clear coat came out. Your advice was great and it turned out IMO so good. It is plenty shiny.
    I just pulled the second cast to make one that articulates better and think I will keep with the same paint plan.
    I really don't want to take the chance of ruining the mold this soon.
     
  40. reaton89

    reaton89 Active Member

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    This turned out awesome. Great job!
     
  41. pitchforknumb

    pitchforknumb Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If you're happy with it that's all that matters. This really did turn out awesome man. Looking forward to seeing the articulated version. :thumbsup
     
  42. Maziack

    Maziack New Member

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    Ya if you're satisfied then keep it going! Im really excited to see how this turns out when it moves with you... Maaaaybe we get a vid of it?
     
  43. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! I could do a vid of the current one but there would not be much movement. I will keep posting as the second version progresses.

    Thanks again, going to hopefully start cutting and trimming the second one this weekend.

    Thanks reaton89, I have seen a couple of yours lately on here and they are so good.
     
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  44. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Arm version 2 with some movement.
    Will hinge the elbow so it all stays in place ,but this is close.
    2015-08-09_09-28-19_634.jpg 2015-08-09_09-37-29_787.jpg

     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  45. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    I finally got the costume sorted to fit the new arm and got some shots.
    Movement is good almost 90 degrees at the elbow.
    Thanks for the help and advice here.
    .
    p1867934454-6.jpg
     
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  46. Noxchild

    Noxchild New Member

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    Cool work. I did a much more remedial arm last year with craft foam and worbla. I was thinking of redoing it with a clay sculpt, mold, and foam latex sleeve. Have you ever thought of running foam in your mold?
     
  47. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!I looked into it briefly but painting latex/getting the silver color seemed to be a big challenge. Getting a decent finish on the 65d was challenge enough.
    I do like the idea of a more flexible arm. Let me know what you find out I might try it if it wont ruin the mold and a decent color can be attained.
    The second one I made had enough mobility to do just about anything needed though
     
  48. kcail1

    kcail1 Active Member

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    Just curious... how do you make this arm "stick" to you? A harness? Form-fitting? I am JEALOUS... I am an artist, but have no idea how to sculpt/cast. This is a beautiful study of anatomy besides being fricken awesome.

    kcail1
     
  49. Malibu139

    Malibu139 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. it was not an easy undertaking but me and my kids got a little winter soldier obsessed there for a bit. I was going for the look of the illustrated arm so I had that as my anatomy guide . There was a time when this thing sat in a corner as an arm with clay lumped onto it., I didn't know where to begin. then one day I slapped on the tricep muscle and that gave a point of refence that I made everything else around.

    As for the "stick to me" part I learned on this build to keep it simple don't overthink: so it just has a one inch elastic strap that buckles in the back to adjust the tension.
    it hooks in the front top, goes under my arm, around my back and to the bottom of the back *. sticky Velcro on the arm, sewable Velcro on the strap to attach the strap to the arm. keeps it in place perfectly and also has some give when I move.
    I hinged the 2 parts with elastic as well at the elbow that use the point at the back of the arm as a hinge .
    I also had lot of great advise here as well, cant say thanks enough to all the helped me.
    2016-01-12_21-22-33_855.jpg 2016-01-12_21-23-19_408.jpg 2016-01-12_21-31-31_424.jpg
     

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  50. rdrekers

    rdrekers New Member

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    This is some incredible work, very exciting to see your progress! Thanks for the posts!
     

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