Yeah, perhaps I will!
Various OT lightsaber WannaWanga parts (new ALU MPP shroud)
- Thread starter roygilsing
- Start date
Yeah, perhaps I will!
Yeah! Definitely!
Obi1Kenobi
Member
I have what may be a naive/dumb question. I’m thinking about building one of these Darth Vader sabers myself soon, but why all this interest in stand-alone shrouds? I’ve not yet shopped for such parts, so I’m trying to understand why some people already have real flash “tubes” but still need shrouds? Are these two items not always found together as a set? Were the same tubes more commonly used elsewhere, but without the very specific types of shrouds used in the movie props? I’m asking due to the last few pages of shroud talk, so I guess that applies to the hero DV sabers used in ANH and ESB. Thanks.
Hi, Roy here from WannaWanga.
Let me try to explain it. It's not a dumb question at all and maybe it's good to explain this also for others (and even for myself!)
It started a few years ago when there were hardly any MPP / vader saber replicas. A good way to make one was with a Heiland flash tube, a MPP lookalike. But you'd need the conversion parts, including the shroud. So that's when I did my first run in aluminium.
Later images appeared of the real Vader's ESB saber in the casino movie museum and later some sharper images from its current owner and it became clear that the shroud was rusty and therefore made from carbon steel. That's when I decided to do a steel shroud version for ESB and it was a great success and sold out quickly. I was and still am the only supplier as far as I know of a steel replica shroud.
Then more and more replica sabers appeared and people were happy. But regularly I get people asking if I would do another run of both steel and aluminium shrouds, especially if I would even improve them. No need to mention of course that obtaining a real one-step shroud MPP is extremely difficult and expensive (last week one sold for 5000 GBP).
So here we go and this time I remodeled both versions and produced even more accurate shrouds.
I never really compare mine to any other replicas, so perhaps others can say something about that, but all I try to do is to make parts that are as close to the screen used props as possible as I can. So that's basically the reason.
Roy
Just to add a bit onto Roy’s explanation, MPP flashes had variations over the years of their production. The shroud had two major variations, being one or two step. Those who obtained an inaccurate two step shrouded version would want an accurate replica of the one step.
I tried grinding down that inner step on the steel shroud as suggested by PoopaPapaPalps. Realized I wasn't making headway when I saw that the side screws prevented it from dropping any further to align with the thumb screw indent. Big bummer.
If the shroud touches the side screws it's in its proper position. That's the way it's supposed to be.
Yeah, but the indent still isn't aligned with the thumb screw hole on my Romans. Not sure, but might end up drilling a new hole into the flash handle for the thumb screw.
Latest steel shroud on my working Parks MPP; with Roy wires, d-ring, diamond knurl thumb dial, bubblecard; Todd's Costumes t-track; Parks' clamp sleeve/cup; Roman clamp and endcap; and Slothfurnace Exactra card.
As good as the real deal in my book.
As good as the real deal in my book.
What a beauty. Everyone but the Pope had a hand in making that happen.
It's absolutely amazing the makers out there with the tools and services available to make these parts happen---Roy included! It's a dream come true to have not just a replica, but one that works and made like the original!
A bit late, but thought I'd share! I bought some of Roy's new and improved bubble strips, and I am very very impressed! They are nearly indistinguishable from real bubble strips. The bubble strip on the right in the first photo is an original, and Roy's is on the left. The color from aging is really the biggest difference, and you would only really be able to tell in a side by side comparison like this.
Anyone looking for something very accurate and beautiful need look no further as far as I'm concerned!
Anyone looking for something very accurate and beautiful need look no further as far as I'm concerned!
Thanks for your praise! Nice to see the comparison.
i got a package from wannawanga today! cant wait to open it, yours looks amazing
I finally got around to stenciling, painting, and weathering my steel MPP shroud!
Here it is just after de-stenciling:
I used the standard V2 tricks to weather the paint a little. Then I mixed 50% hydrogen peroxide, 50% white vinegar, and a couple pinches of salt in a shot glass and applied this mixture to the bare steel portions with a q-tip to start getting some rust. Here it is just starting out:
You just apply a small pool of the mixture and let it dry away, leaving behind a nice coat of rust. Repeat until desired results are achieved. Here it is after a couple more passes:
Here it is just after de-stenciling:
I used the standard V2 tricks to weather the paint a little. Then I mixed 50% hydrogen peroxide, 50% white vinegar, and a couple pinches of salt in a shot glass and applied this mixture to the bare steel portions with a q-tip to start getting some rust. Here it is just starting out:
You just apply a small pool of the mixture and let it dry away, leaving behind a nice coat of rust. Repeat until desired results are achieved. Here it is after a couple more passes:
Black "Wrinkle Paint"
VHT Wrinkle Paint You heat it up and the wrinkles get smaller and smaller. Tough as nails
I used Tamiya Black Lacquer for my steel shroud
I used Tamiya Black Lacquer for my steel shroud
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