Tom's Real Parts Obi Wan Saber

[thd9791]

Thank you guys!

If anyone else decides to do this:

cut above the first ring if your grenade has no endcap. The ring will slide right into the recess/threads in the rear of the grenade.

If you have an endcap, cut above the second ring, and trim the exposed cap with a dremel, maybe 1-2mm

Either way, you're looking to equal the 2" Graflex clamp space, but all 8 rings + a grenade endcap is too long.

 

[Halliwax]

Thank you guys!

If anyone else decides to do this:

cut above the first ring if your grenade has no endcap. The ring will slide right into the recess/threads in the rear of the grenade.

If you have an endcap, cut above the second ring, and trim the exposed cap with a dremel, maybe 1-2mm

Either way, you're looking to equal the 2" Graflex clamp space, but all 8 rings + a grenade endcap is too long.

This should be a sticky, great info right there Tom

 

[thd9791]

So, my old Russrep emitter (weathered by good-ol' Boba Debt ) Started to rust. I had waxed it regularly but not in a long time and it wasn't apparently rust proof this time around

So, the weathering job had faded too. I took very fine black sandpaper (probably 600 or 800 grit) and stripped all the rust off. The emitter's steel started to show through (but whatever Boba Debt had done to the beveled ring of holes was bulletproof! I weathered it with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. Just rubbing it was giving me a darker tone.... a little splotchyness... but I really wanted rings of dark area around the side of the emitter like real balance pipes, so I dribbled it down the sides, let it sit in certain areas, and then buffed the emitter plate a bit more than the rest of the body (from being clamped to a male BP)

In trying to dry it quickly, I dropped it twice into the burner flame on my stove. I decided to leave it, and wish it blackened more than it did. Any other advice for getting good blackening? I can easily sand paper parts off and try again.

I hit everything with Matte Clear Rustoleum to make sure it wouldn't rust. It got humid here so maybe the wax wasn't cutting it.

Actually I see why the Obi Stunt emitters were dark gray / close to black now. In darker lighting it looks black and in sunlight it looks gray

 

[thd9791]

Here are some more shots on another device - click for larger!

 

[Halliwax]

I want that damn Russrep emitter….

 

[thd9791]

Oooookay so. I can’t wait to replace this emitter with a real inconel one! I’m going to abuse the crap out of it the right way… weathering right? Anyway… (thank you DaveP )

In the meantime, I swapped this clamp for one that was actually pretty trashed. Got some aluminum chimney/roof tape and sealed the rusty flaking clamp… so I saved that nicer one for a Graflex saber.

Unfortunately when swapping clamps I found my thinned bubble strip had cracked! Now that we have two examples of bubble strip mods visible currently.. I chose one and went at it… using a wannawanga full size bubble strip!!!! These are beautiful. I am very satisfied being able to go through this process myself.

A little model maker trick - we all probably know it… using your hand as a parallel guide when drawing straight lines down the edge of something.

I used a dremel cutting bit (cylinder) to start the cut, basically just touching the strip so I have a little area to grip. Then I used a square and flat needle file to carve the channel.

I used really nice “Swiss” needle files, or something like that. Got them from a hobby small-tool or specialized tool shop online.

This was critical because I needed the “corner” to be pretty sharp. The regular needle files from wal-mart had a rounded corner on the square file… at least rounded under a magnifying glass.

It seemed to work. This looks a lot like the chronicles photos to me, leaving the strip almost flush with the top surface of the clamp edge.

I used a cigarette lighter and Novus plastic polish (3 step set) to get it back to fully clear again.

 

[IronDestinyProps]

Nice work, Tom!

 

[thd9791]

Nice work, Tom!

Thank you sir! I admit, this was the first time I used this type of vise and I absolutely love it. Pins can go in those holes and hold any shape you want

Another story - I have a rather worn real sink knob. I had two.. and a broke one. The cube ring blew open because I moved the D ring improperly.. and then the whole plastic with the steel thing freaked me out. I put an older Romans aluminum pommel on it with the threaded metal endcap. Identical to the real endcap except the center hole is threaded for 3/8 16. Then I happened to have one of the ones with burrs on it and the chrome started to flake off, so I successfully transplanted a new Romans plastic cube ring in place and it looks great. I put a vintage D ring on it that seems to match and I love it. Again… I wanted the replica endcap, and the replica cube ring is okay now so the only vintage part would be the inner sleeve? Not worth it, so I have my sink knob on the side

I play with my props a lot, they’re out, sitting around sometimes and not behind glass, so some of my decisions are in lieu of that… at least I go for the spirit of what the prop makers did when I can’t duplicate it

 

[thd9791]

Okay... folks I have some of DaveP's new parts. The emitter.... freshly machined inconel. I wanted to weather it in an accurate manner. Consumer grade propane torch and some lithium grease can result in this!

I used E6000 to affix the two parts together after a little strip of the rim. And a sponge wheel on a little bench grinder to buff down some of the parts that would be shiny.... the plate facing the other male BP, some of the outside around the clamp..

I also am now using this setup as an adapter. these gaskets are oil/chemical resistant, and I got a T nut without holes. McMaster Carr my friends.

It is a very strong connection. still flexible when pushed or struck hard... so you can knock it crooked and it wont even move afterwards

 

[Halliwax]

Phenomenal job buddy! Lithium grease, not just for keeping your bike pedals from seizing up, but aging balance pipes as well!

 

[thd9791]

are the photos erroring for the rest of you?

Thank you sir!!!

 

[Halliwax]

are the photos erroring for the rest of you?

Thank you sir!!!

Something is up.. a lot of threads photos are loading. Ironically I can see yours

 

[Mandalorian444]

are the photos erroring for the rest of you?

Thank you sir!!!

Yes. I thought it might be my browser, but I've tried a couple different ones and I get the same error for each one.

The saber is looking great though, can't wait to see it in larger-than-thumbnail size.

 

[thd9791]

Lets try this… beauty shots first

 

[thd9791]

This is the plug I made. Chemical resistant rubber washers and a specific weld nut

 

[thd9791]

And the torching procedure started out okay,

 

[thd9791]

So I kept going, rinse and repeat. The parts finally fell apart (Dave used JB Weld) so I could weather them separately.

 

[thd9791]

So I took sandpaper and stripped the area needed to attach the parts together. I used E6000 for now, strong but reversible.

Then I took a bench grinder with a sponge wheel and buffed off some of the gunk, in areas on the prop/in the engine that would be cleaner.

 

[thd9791]

You have to pop in the rubber gaskets first, they’re a little large but they squish in there fine. So I popped the T nut in there and twisted it tight.

I am using an older Romans endcap, it’s brass and the center is already threaded for 3/8 16. The whole plastic bottom freaks me out because I already broke one set of real cubes, and the rest of this is steel, so that forms the other end of the sandwich.

This has been cooked delmonte style!

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

That's kinda how I did it with my Russrep steel balance pipe. Only, I alternated between using cooking oil and machine oil/grease, rubbing the parts with a paper towel, and then cooking it over a fire so it would pick up soot. When the grease would catch fire, I'd dunk it in some stagnant water. Reapply oil/grease and repeat until it was seasoned to taste. Once I get my booster/pommel parts in, I'll take new pics.