Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

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teragon

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've been trying to locate the steel cylinder, does anyone make those these days?
Don't think anybody is doing them at this time unfortunately. But if you find a provider, please share, I'm looking as well !

Also, I took various bit of advice from here, and polished my metal parts (including most screws, and some bits that were painted black for some reason but appear blued on pics of the real blaster) by sanding from 400 grit all the way to 2500 grit, then using the dremmel polishing kit with the included compound, then finishing it off by hand with another polishing compound (metal polish by Glass polish ldt), with a micro-fiber cloth, and finally a quick rub with another micro-fiber cloth and a little bit of acetone.
It's basically a mirror finish now almost. Almsot makes me want to make a "bling-bling" version of the blaster, with like white pearl grips or something. All the while, I never touched the parts with my bare hands, only with a micro fiber cloth or with cotton gloves on top of nitril gloves, as to leave no organic residues whatsoever on the metal. Will get a thourough scrub with the cleaning compound from my blueing kit anyway before I apply it, but I'm not taking any chances.

It basically took me a good chunk of my weekend, and I still have to do a few screws and smaller parts, so hopefully it takes the blueing well, provided I don't mess it up on my end. Plus my hands still hurt.
IMG_0286.JPG
The main big parts polished
 

David3

Active Member
Have you tried Don Parker over at Propsummit?
He does a run of cylinders every now and then, not sure if he does any on request but worth a try.
Just search for
'New Steel Cylinder Thread'
 

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Chicken Head

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I found some of the bluing compounds like a bit of tooth to get really dark. It all depends on the finish you want, but I was going back in with steel wool between bluing sessions. Good luck!
 

nusilver

Jr Member
Yeah unfortunately he’s not doing them anymore at this time. Seems like he was the only one...
There's an eBay user, dkorol2012, who has offered a metal cylinder in the past for a not *incredibly* unreasonable $85. He doesn't have anything for sale right now, but you might try and send him a message anyway! Good luck.
 
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nusilver

Jr Member
I did not sand mine down using sand paper so I really can't comment on using it. I can only say Do Not Use Steel Wool. I used a large buffing wheel but a dremel with a large enough buffer should be fine. As long as it is polished up prior to bluing. Since others have used 600 grit sand paper, that is probably a good way to get rid of any issues you may see on the metal prior to buffing it out. I just used a gloss black spray can from Home Depot for the black parts. You will need flat black for the butt plate and the internal grip parts. Spray the metal grip part flat black, then mask off the grip area leaving the outer edge. Spray gloss black on and remove the mask. This will give you the glossed outer edge of the grip and keep the inner part dark. Hope that helps. Just be sure the entire top piece is all together before you blue. This will keep a nice consistency on all pieces.
Meanwhile, I and many others swear by steel wool as an essential part of the process. To each their own... if you love your blaster's look, I don't think it really matters what you did or didn't do to get it there, as long as there are options for others here to try out :)
 

Fragment

Member
I agree nusilver. I should mention that I used steel wool after bluing which did not work so well for me. It continued to scrape and remove the blue too much and caused me to have to re-blue it continuously. Like you said, many others swear by it, which is why I used it in the first place. Overall, I recommend getting the top metal piece polished up well before bluing it at all, IF they are looking for a nicely polished blue. Polishing up first will give the best result in my opinion.
 

teragon

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Ok, I’ve got an issue: my receiver, while it was polished to a mirror finish, turns brown instead of dark grey/blue like the rest of the pieces. They all are where I want them to be, but no matter what I try, the receiver turns brown. I get it might not be the same metal as the rest, but you guys seem to manage just fine, so what gives ?
 

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Buch

Sr Member
Ok, I’ve got an issue: my receiver, while it was polished to a mirror finish, turns brown instead of dark grey/blue like the rest of the pieces. They all are where I want them to be, but no matter what I try, the receiver turns brown. I get it might not be the same metal as the rest, but you guys seem to manage just fine, so what gives ?
What kind of bluing did you use?
 

Buch

Sr Member
I agree nusilver. I should mention that I used steel wool after bluing which did not work so well for me. It continued to scrape and remove the blue too much and caused me to have to re-blue it continuously. Like you said, many others swear by it, which is why I used it in the first place. Overall, I recommend getting the top metal piece polished up well before bluing it at all, IF they are looking for a nicely polished blue. Polishing up first will give the best result in my opinion.
Let me get this right... you recommend not using steel wool to polish because you used it AFTER bluing and it didn't work out? :behave
 

teragon

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
F2AAA928-82CE-403E-9B10-AF48379A74CC.jpeg
It was worse in real life, picture is more tame. That’s two thin coat in, I didn’t continue because it was only getting more brown.
Just like the other pieces, I sanded it from 600 grit to 2500, then a polishing compound run, then the steel wool from the BW kit, then the cleaner from the kit.
Then I followed the instructions mixed with this thread advices, used cotton pads to rub the perma blue stuff.
Now I stripped it with the kit bluing and rust remover, which left it a dull silver color, so I repolished it the same way, without the polishing compound though this time. The steel wool works just as well.
edit: I also tried the steel wool it after the last coat, because why not at this point, hence the brushed look if you zoom in.
 

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Buch

Sr Member
View attachment 843024
It was worse in real life, picture is more tame. That’s two thin coat in, I didn’t continue because it was only getting more brown.
Just like the other pieces, I sanded it from 600 grit to 2500, then a polishing compound run, then the steel wool from the BW kit, then the cleaner from the kit.
Then I followed the instructions mixed with this thread advices, used cotton pads to rub the perma blue stuff.
Now I stripped it with the kit bluing and rust remover, which left it a dull silver color, so I repolished it the same way, without the polishing compound though this time. The steel wool works just as well.
edit: I also tried the steel wool it after the last coat, because why not at this point, hence the brushed look if you zoom in.
Forget about the steel wool after bluing.

Try stripping it down to the bare metal again. Use steel wool, polish or whatever.

Then clean it extremely thoroughly using acetone 3-4 times. Perhaps use a soft toothbrush on it. Even the smallest scratches may contain left over residue from the polishing compound. Let it dry on 100% clean paper towels.

Change gloves.

When it's clean DON'T touch the metal. Not even with the rubber gloves. Pick it up from underneath with 100% paper towels.

Then try using BC Perma Blue pure with 100% clean cotton pads.
 

forttusken

Well-Known Member
I got mine all assembled. There is some break through on the cylinder cover right where the two cap screws hold it to the cylinder bracket. Is this normal or should I seek a replacement from Tomenosuke?

IMG_20180928_162212720.jpg

Thanks!​

IMG_20180928_162212720.jpg


IMG_20180928_161926574.jpg
 
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sketcherdan

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Just building my Tomen kit and managed to lose part #23, the cylinder latch plunger. Managed to ping it into the netherworld. Just wondering if anyone can post any dimensions? many thanks
 

Bobdor

New Member
Just building my Tomen kit and managed to lose part #23, the cylinder latch plunger. Managed to ping it into the netherworld. Just wondering if anyone can post any dimensions? many thanks
I assume you are talking about this little guy?

20190116_194707.jpg


I hope this helps:
pin.png


My calipers only have 2 digits using metric.

The pin is 6.46mm long
with an outer diameter of 1.77mm
the shoulder is cut in 2.45mm
with an outside diameter of 0.92mm
Both ends of the pins are chamfered. I measured it at 0.20mm, but in reality it is probably closer to 0.15mm.

This piece can probably be easily hand machined with 2mm stock or even something as simple as a 13 gauge nail.

Luckily I have not worked up the courage to start my kit so it is sitting nice and clean in the piece bins. Best of luck on you build! post pics!
 
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