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Don't think anybody is doing them at this time unfortunately. But if you find a provider, please share, I'm looking as well !I've been trying to locate the steel cylinder, does anyone make those these days?
There's an eBay user, dkorol2012, who has offered a metal cylinder in the past for a not *incredibly* unreasonable $85. He doesn't have anything for sale right now, but you might try and send him a message anyway! Good luck.Yeah unfortunately he’s not doing them anymore at this time. Seems like he was the only one...
Meanwhile, I and many others swear by steel wool as an essential part of the process. To each their own... if you love your blaster's look, I don't think it really matters what you did or didn't do to get it there, as long as there are options for others here to try outI did not sand mine down using sand paper so I really can't comment on using it. I can only say Do Not Use Steel Wool. I used a large buffing wheel but a dremel with a large enough buffer should be fine. As long as it is polished up prior to bluing. Since others have used 600 grit sand paper, that is probably a good way to get rid of any issues you may see on the metal prior to buffing it out. I just used a gloss black spray can from Home Depot for the black parts. You will need flat black for the butt plate and the internal grip parts. Spray the metal grip part flat black, then mask off the grip area leaving the outer edge. Spray gloss black on and remove the mask. This will give you the glossed outer edge of the grip and keep the inner part dark. Hope that helps. Just be sure the entire top piece is all together before you blue. This will keep a nice consistency on all pieces.
What kind of bluing did you use?Ok, I’ve got an issue: my receiver, while it was polished to a mirror finish, turns brown instead of dark grey/blue like the rest of the pieces. They all are where I want them to be, but no matter what I try, the receiver turns brown. I get it might not be the same metal as the rest, but you guys seem to manage just fine, so what gives ?
Let me get this right... you recommend not using steel wool to polish because you used it AFTER bluing and it didn't work out? :behaveI agree nusilver. I should mention that I used steel wool after bluing which did not work so well for me. It continued to scrape and remove the blue too much and caused me to have to re-blue it continuously. Like you said, many others swear by it, which is why I used it in the first place. Overall, I recommend getting the top metal piece polished up well before bluing it at all, IF they are looking for a nicely polished blue. Polishing up first will give the best result in my opinion.
Forget about the steel wool after bluing.View attachment 843024
It was worse in real life, picture is more tame. That’s two thin coat in, I didn’t continue because it was only getting more brown.
Just like the other pieces, I sanded it from 600 grit to 2500, then a polishing compound run, then the steel wool from the BW kit, then the cleaner from the kit.
Then I followed the instructions mixed with this thread advices, used cotton pads to rub the perma blue stuff.
Now I stripped it with the kit bluing and rust remover, which left it a dull silver color, so I repolished it the same way, without the polishing compound though this time. The steel wool works just as well.
edit: I also tried the steel wool it after the last coat, because why not at this point, hence the brushed look if you zoom in.
I assume you are talking about this little guy?Just building my Tomen kit and managed to lose part #23, the cylinder latch plunger. Managed to ping it into the netherworld. Just wondering if anyone can post any dimensions? many thanks