Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by eethan, Jul 12, 2017.

  1. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  2. Bash

    Bash Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  3. Bash

    Bash Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  4. veektohr

    veektohr Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited: Jul 13, 2017
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  5. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  6. NeilDavies

    NeilDavies New Member

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    Well this is the thread I need to read :)

    I just started painting, polishing etc the parts of the kit - as I'm pretty much a novice with this sort of thing, please don't anyone take what I do as the right way to do anything - it almost certainly isn't, as i'm sure to find out :)

    I polished the metal parts first with P600 3M wet and dry paper, then with a Dremel and polishing compound. Seemed to go ok. I'm not after a super-mirror finish. For the black painted parts I actually used some gloss black engine paint I had lying around and thinned it to go through an airbrush. Again, seemed to go ok. I've already weathered some of those parts too. The grips I polished again with the Dremel and I used a car polish (Autoglym super-resin polish) which did a nice job (one done and one not in the pic below).

    Please feel free to rant at me for sullying such an expensive kit with my terrible techniques :) Any advice welcome. I've got the Birchwood Casey bluing kit which I'll be cracking open tomorrow :)

    19956962_10155500784079913_4839607399183249485_o.jpg 19983546_10155500783839913_4742730278405928425_o.jpg 19955892_10155500784434913_5369164260918840157_o.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2017
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  7. Bash

    Bash Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  8. NeilDavies

    NeilDavies New Member

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    Yes exactly. I've gone over most things in the photos another time so they look a little better now.

    Also I forgot to say I went back and put some polish over the diamond pattern on the grips and left it in the gaps to dry, to get that white residue look.
     
  9. Blade Walker

    Blade Walker Jr Member

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    Great idea for the thread, I just got a kit myself and would appreciate having all the info in one easy to find spot, instead of having to spend hours searching the forum like some members here would have you do. (Like the ones you mention, that love to tell you its already out there, just search for it or you're are lazy, as if we dont all have many things to do in our lives and dont have forever to search the internet. Haha.)

    So I just wanted to tell you I appreciate it and look forward to reading whatever info anyone feels generous enough to share!
     
  10. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  11. Bash

    Bash Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  12. Blade Walker

    Blade Walker Jr Member

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    Just to clarify, I agree with your feelings, and Im totally not trying to start any debate just trying to represent the other side of the issue which doesnt seem to get much sympathy on here. I just wanted to let you know some of us out here appreciate your idea and dont judge you for not wanting to have to go find it all your self, but yes you are right keep it positive!
    Of course I look forward to and appreciate any help people offer.
     
  13. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  14. dlambert

    dlambert Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  15. Buch

    Buch Sr Member

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    This is my full guide to the bluing process...

    Read the entire guide before starting!

    This work requires safety equipment: Safety glasses (You DO NOT want bluing fluid in the eyes!), nitrile gloves and respirator mask. And should be done in a heavily ventilated room or outside. Here are the steps I took...

    You'll need:

    - Sanding paper grit: (400), 600, 800, 1000, (1200)
    - Steel wool 0000 (super fine)
    - Plenty of cotton pads and clean paper towel
    - Birchwood Casey cold bluing fluid (Perma Blue or Super Blue)
    - Acetone
    - Patience (a lot!)


    1. Sanding, sanding, sanding, going from grid (400), 600, 800, 1000, (1200) (Be careful not to do too much low grit sanding or you will remove the stampings!!!)
    2. Finished sanding process with Liberon steel wool grade 0000. Put some effort into this phase, the smoother the surface, the better the bluing fluid adheres.
    3. One thing I learned at this stage: Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the receiver from this point on with anything else than clean paper towels!! Not even with the nitrile gloves. Even the tiniest stains will effect the final result.
    4. Clean the receiver with acetone.
    5. Rub receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
    6. Apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue (concentrated liquid) with cotton pads evenly and quickly all over the receiver (long strokes). Change cotton pad if you have more than one go.
    7. Immediately thereafter rub the receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
    8. If you get smudges (you will!), rub the smudges with cotton pads (with bluing fluid on), then immediately thereafter rub off the bluing fluid with a paper towel. Repeat this stage till you get an even finish. Change cotton pad by each go.
    9. Seal the parts in acid free oil (I had them soaking for 3 days).
    10. Polish with wax, for instance Renaissance Wax.
    11. Buff with polishing cloth (for jewelry).

    And a picture of the result...

    19055317_10155346574549763_3958574788921017096_o.jpg

    Oh, and one more thing... use Brasso to polish the grips :thumbsup

    EDIT July 14:

    When working on the Tomen receiver I recommend mounting it like so...

    IMG_2019.JPG

    Or holding it like so...

    IMG_2020.JPG

    19055317_10155346574549763_3958574788921017096_o.jpg

    IMG_2019.JPG

    IMG_2020.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  16. Buch

    Buch Sr Member

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    Birchwood Perma Blue will give the same color on a Tomen receiver and on a steel replacement barrel.
     
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  17. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  18. Bash

    Bash Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  19. Buch

    Buch Sr Member

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    Perma Blue - because I love the color :love Don't know how Super Blue looks, havn't used it... Perma gave mine a really nice color to my eye at least...

    Ammo box on the Tomen kit doesn't need to be painted, the castings are usually pretty * clean... I left mine unpainted. On the Coyle blaster they are usually painted because the castings themselves tend to be a bit on the rough side.
     
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  20. eethan

    eethan Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited: Jul 13, 2017

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