Tomenosuke blaster assembly kit tips and tricks, help the new builders

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Mechanized

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Blaster is here and weathered nicely

0607D8B9-072C-4E43-B0F4-ACAB0A0EDF8B.jpeg

Buuut...I’m still having some issues with the bolt action. Doesn’t raise up all the way, therefor doesn’t slide back. I’m about to read the thread but before I do just wanted to ask:

is this issue solved by filing the receiver to allow the “arm” to raise all the way up?

0BF90FD1-9D26-41A9-9E16-E20354E79032.jpeg

So file here?
 

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juajn7fernandez

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Sending you a PM on Facebook

Blaster is here and weathered nicely

View attachment 814550

Buuut...I’m still having some issues with the bolt action. Doesn’t raise up all the way, therefor doesn’t slide back. I’m about to read the thread but before I do just wanted to ask:

is this issue solved by filing the receiver to allow the “arm” to raise all the way up?

View attachment 814551

So file here?
 

Mechanized

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks to @juanjn7fernandez for the advice. I got the bolt action to function with a little force. Force is a bad word, I was just being to gentle with it. So no filing was needed.

with that said all credit goes to Juan for this, his finishing work on this blaster is exactly what I was looking for. Highest regards and recommendations.

glamour pics to come..
 
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RoyDeckard

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Anyone know what kind of spring Tomenosuke uses on their main spring? Mine seems to have warped and while I've bent it back a few times to try and get it to work properly again, it doesn't seem to want to. I can pull it just fine but it will not snap back into place fully.
 

userd1402

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is my full guide to the bluing process
1. Sanding, sanding, sanding, going from grid (400), 600, 800, 1000, (1200) (Be careful not to do too much low grit sanding or you will remove the stampings!!!)
2. Finished sanding process with Liberon steel wool grade 0000. Put some effort into this phase, the smoother the surface, the better the bluing fluid adheres.
3. One thing I learned at this stage: Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the receiver from this point on with anything else than clean paper towels!! Not even with the nitrile gloves. Even the tiniest stains will effect the final result.
4. Clean the receiver with acetone.
5. Rub receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
6. Apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue (concentrated liquid) with cotton pads evenly and quickly all over the receiver (long strokes). Change cotton pad if you have more than one go.
7. Immediately thereafter rub the receiver with clean and dry paper towels.
8. If you get smudges (you will!), rub the smudges with cotton pads (with bluing fluid on), then immediately thereafter rub off the bluing fluid with a paper towel. Repeat this stage till you get an even finish. Change cotton pad by each go.
9. Seal the parts in acid free oil (I had them soaking for 3 days).
10. Polish with wax, for instance Renaissance Wax.
11. Buff with polishing cloth (for jewelry).
An excellent guide but can you clarify what you mean by “acid free oil” in point no.9? What kind of oil is this? I have googled it but get mostly food-supplements and I’m sure this is not what you used. Thanks.
 

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Buch

Sr Member
An excellent guide but can you clarify what you mean by “acid free oil” in point no.9? What kind of oil is this? I have googled it but get mostly food-supplements and I’m sure this is not what you used. Thanks.
:lol

Well, at the time I put together the guide I was recommended "acid free oil" by a local gunsmith who also sold me a suitable high-end gun oil... having looked into it afterwards it would seem that "acid free oil" is a sales trick more than anything else.

EDIT: There's an updated guide in the files section of the Propsummit Facebook page.
 
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Mechanized

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here are some okay pictures. Such a beauty deserves better pictures:/

Some of you may have seen them already:
4CB987D9-B039-4E07-A0C4-D2F9C600B289.jpeg
49010495-5A97-46A3-A2A3-3E590B85E940.jpeg

9A3B273E-162C-4D71-92DD-14B8B4243CB2.jpeg
CE51E8E1-792B-4BB8-A3D2-4CDC353DE168.jpeg

Been a long day so forgive the reposts of pics :facepalm
 

Mechanized

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Beautiful pictures!!
Quick question what size or Gage are the white wires
Im not 100% sure. For the squirt gun I used old headphone wires and they seem to be the exact size as my Tomenosuke wires(or very close to just by eyeballing).
 

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MANDINGALOW

Active Member
Awww ok ok I can see that in a pinch. :)
If anyone else has or knows I would love the info .....
And thanks for the reply mechanized2400 !!!!!!!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

nusilver

Jr Member
:lol

Well, at the time I put together the guide I was recommended "acid free oil" by a local gunsmith who also sold me a suitable high-end gun oil... having looked into it afterwards it would seem that "acid free oil" is a sales trick more than anything else.

EDIT: There's an updated guide in the files section of the Propsummit Facebook page.
Check my thread, too: I used Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Preventive spray. I tried to be especially verbose on that thread for folks who still have questions despite the plethora of guides available here.
 
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nusilver

Jr Member
Okay guys, got my metal cylinder from Don Parker being delivered tomorrow, but I'm realizing I have no idea how to remove the stock one from the Tomenosuke. Can someone provide a step-by-step?
 

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Mechanized

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Read the thread over on Propsummit in the prop shop, there’s an in-depth how to. Or read your manual that came with the blaster.
 

nusilver

Jr Member
Read the thread over on Propsummit in the prop shop, there’s an in-depth how to. Or read your manual that came with the blaster.
Okay, my problem was literally that I'm stupid and was trying to unscrew the ejector rod nub with my bare fingers instead of, you know, some pliers. All done! D'oh.
 
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Buch

Sr Member
Check my thread, too: I used Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Preventive spray. I tried to be especially verbose on that thread for folks who still have questions despite the plethora of guides available here.
Was your message intended for userd1402?
 
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Bash

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Okay guys, got my metal cylinder from Don Parker being delivered tomorrow, but I'm realizing I have no idea how to remove the stock one from the Tomenosuke. Can someone provide a step-by-step?
Cut it off with a hack saw. It’s literally terrifying. You’ll be left with like a horizontal metal bit inside the remaining body, and that’s what your new barrel will slot into. I’ll try and find a pic


EDIT:

If I have the pics they’ll be on my laptop I’ll look tonight. Can you post a pic of your metal barrel? Think I got mine from another forum member so they may be different?
 

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