Tomb Raider - Triangle of Light - WIP

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by juno, Mar 3, 2006.

  1. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm working up a drawing of the Triangle of Light from the first Tomb Raider movie. Before I get into the detail work, I was hoping to get some feedback on where I am so far (my eyes are starting to cross.)

    Mine:
    [​IMG]

    Screencap:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Darkknight0667

    Darkknight0667 Sr Member

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    Other than the fact that the triangle at the bottom of the eye looks like it should be larger than the others and go to the outside of the circle, I'd say that you're off to one hell of a start.
     
  3. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Here's another grab:

    [​IMG]

    In addition to Pete's suggestion, here are my proportional observations:

    [​IMG]

    - increase the ID of the spoked area
    - make the wide spokes parallel, not radial
    - broaden the base of the outer triangles
    - increase the ID of the outer ring

    Are you planning on sculpting a triangle? If so, hook up with Franz Bolo and Applied Metal - see their combined efforts in the Constantine Brass Knuckles project thread. I've been helping them with screen shots and graphics from the Tomb Raider DVD for their upcoming Clock of Ages and Triangle of Light project.

    Looking good. :)

    - Gabe
     
  4. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Clay's the one that set me on this project. I'm a huge TR fan. If I had a scanner, I'd scan in the blueprints on the inside of a magazine I have (this is for the Clock of Ages).
    tif
     
  5. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Tif,
    Awesome job so far. Good idea putting it up for confirmation.

    Gabe, thanks for your input as well.
    This project will follow immediately the knucks. I have already ordered material. What should the dimensions be on each of the 3 sides??

    Just estimating from the scale of the hands holding it, I figured about 10-12 inches per side??

    Let me know.
    Thanks again Tif--looking forward to getting this one going.

    Appliedmetal
     
  6. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Tif,
    Here is one I didnt have with me earlier--Sorry
    Appliedmetal


    Yours looks better anyway
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2007
  7. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Clay, just eyeballing it and holding a ruler in my hands, I'd say go with 12" at the very least.

    As for the magazine scans, do you mean these watermarks:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I got them from someone who saved copies from the old project thread.

    Here are some grabs I snapped off the DVD that will also help:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and the glyphs on the face of the clock and the inner rings:

    [​IMG]

    I've got a bunch more, but let's devote a separate thread to the Clock of Ages when we're ready to move and in the meantime Tim can hopefully clean up and trace over the scans I sent him. :)

    - Gabe
     
  8. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Awesome -- I have the magazine, so if I can convince some of my designer friends to scan it, I will.

    Back to the triangle:
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Tif,

    Way cool--thanks fo rmoving so quickly on this one. I would like to have some of these done by the time the Michigan Prop party rolls around.

    Look forward to seeing you there.

    On another note--What type of finish should I use for the Triangle?? I am goin gto machine it out of Aluminum probably.

    Open to suggestions here.

    Appliedmetal
     
  10. TFrosst

    TFrosst Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The finish will be a difficult choice. In different scenes, it has a differnt color. Sometimes its a bluish finish other mor of a brass/bronze look
     
  11. propsculptor

    propsculptor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I was the one who cleaned-up the Watermark Images so you could actually see them way back when we were going to do the Clock then the project interest faded away...
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Hey there Tif,
    Just wanted to let youknow the way the program works that we are going to import into--It picks up the darker spots and pushes them back--White comes to the front (top) grey is in the middle somewhere. So-that being said, whatever we want raised should be white-second level should be grey and recessed areas shold be black.

    Hope this helps--
    Appliedmetal
     
  13. RelicMaker

    RelicMaker Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It looks it would be about 10 inches to me...
     
  14. 8 perf

    8 perf Sr Member

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    Nice to see someone tackling these again. The drawing of the "Triangle of Light" looks like its coming along great.
    I think a few of the pics of the Clock of Ages are some I sent to Clay awhile back. Not to hijack, but is someone going to try to do the clock as well? I know Clay and I were trading info for a while a few months back, but thats as far as it went. Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what the thickness of the Triangle and the Clock are? How about the diameter of the clock?
     
  15. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Hey there--Well, Some of these pics are the ones you sent me--Not the exact ones you sent me, but the same ones--look like they have gotten around, but not from me. I just started this thread again as I am going to do the Triangle and then we are going to get started on the Clock. I can use any and all help I can get on this one. It will be a collective effort.

    Im just bullheaded enough to tackle it on my own, but with the resources here--that would be dumb :eek

    So--The Triangle first--then the Clock--Any ideas where we should start--I know that the graphic design will be a good place. I need to get dimensions for the case and components so we can see what it is going to take to machine these.I will make masters and then cast them out of the AMT also to help bring the cost down as machined parts for this will take time and effort, not to mention lots of machine time.

    At any rate--We are moving along.

    IN regards to the triangle--I need confirmation on the dimensions also and is the back the same as the front??

    I have ordered material for this already...

    Thanks in advance

    Appliedmetal
     
  16. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    [​IMG]

    Things I noticed:

    1) It looks like there is another line over the eye.

    2) The curve on yours dips to fast. It looks like it goes left, then curves.

    3) These lines don't look like they converge, they look parallel.

    4) I think this block is slightly wider then the others.


    FB
     
  17. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Good eye for details Franz.

    We also need to have the break line in good detail as this will be in 2 pieces also and when they ar eput together, you shoul dnot be able to tell.

    Im thinking about a way to display this also--any ideas anyone. I can make a stand for them to go in --no problem. I was even thinking a glass display case--maybe.


    We will see after they get done.

    Anxious to get going on them. --After I get the Knucks done and all orders filled.

    Email me for more details on these anyone
     
  18. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    I've already started modeling the clock, and when I have something presentable, I'll be posting it for peer review. Clay and I tentatively agreed to work together on this, and I have an electrical engineer buddy who I've brought into the fold to design a "plug-and-play" circuit with light sheets and a pulsing amber All-Seeing-Eye that would be activated by a tact switch hidden in the backside keyhole.

    In the meantime, I've pegged the triangle dimensions at 10.5" a side and 1.75" thick, and yes, the two sides are identical. The 3D CAD model in forced perspective mode lays perfectly over the screen captures.

    [​IMG]

    My idea for an MR style stand and display base (acrylic cover omitted for clarity):

    [​IMG]

    B)

    - Gabe
     
  19. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Gabr,
    You never cease to amaze me with your resources.
    I just notived that there are engravings and patterns on the sides as well--Do we have any better images than what are shown---


    Tif--Can you do anything with wnat yoou see here??

    10.5" is good. Then material I ordered was slightly bigger--but not a problem.

    Great Idea for the stand also Gabe--what about a slight modification where it could show them split just a little bit also?

    Keep the information coming--the more the better--...


    Clay
     
  20. 8 perf

    8 perf Sr Member

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    I was going to mention the sides too. If you look close , near the points, you will see that the sides are not flat either. They appear to be "dimpled" or folded in near the corners.
     
  21. aliensarchive

    aliensarchive Well-Known Member

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  22. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I grabbed Gabe's pic and will take a look at them. I like the stand, although I don't put my stuff on stands.

    More work this afternoon, but at the moment it's 65 outside and the puppy calls.

    It seems there are a million different versions of the triangle. Here's another one, I picked up the "eye-con" as a necklace. I live in Cincinnati, and the Tomb Raider ride at Paramount's Kings Island was selling them for a while:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  23. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Those are the best TOL shots I could get off the DVD. If someone can play their copy on an HDTV widescreen TV and take a digital pic during pause (tripod, no flash, 2 second timer to eliminate vibrations), we could probably squeeze a bit more detail out of it.

    The "eyecon" pendant, embossed packaging, and the Range Rover door seal are all exactly based on these graphics, saved from the DVD-ROM files:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    None of these have anywhere near the level of detail as seen in the Triangle of Light and Clock of Ages props. I believe they're just simplified representations.

    In the mean time:

    [​IMG]

    [*ahem* pardon the typo in vertices... :$ ]

    and Clay, by your command:

    [​IMG]

    The break region is obviously simplified - I wouldn't do that in CAD anyway. Once a master triangle has been machined in a workable material such as MDF, I'd have someone sculpt the break region into the master using a Dremel tool, create a plaster mold off of the new sclulpt, merge it with the other half of the triangle to create pattern B, and then make a new RTV mold off it. I don't work in resin, but I can definitely think of a couple of members off the bat who'd be perfect for the job. :)

    - Gabe
     
  24. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Never thought of the HD thing -- and here my pops said my HD tv was just to pick up boys ;)
     
  25. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Version 3.0

    Off-hand, I'm thinking
    1. The outer rim triangles are a wee bit too big, but they are equilateral, no?
    2. Forgive my idiocy, but are there more than three layers in this? It appears that the knotwork is laying over a textured background. However the knotwork is on the same level as the outer ring. I don't know...I think I'm babbling from lack of sleep.

    [​IMG]
     
  26. RelicMaker

    RelicMaker Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Is this piece going to be made as the broken Triangle or when it is joined?
    I would think that unless you can make the broken edges actually look like as if the metal was broken apart (edge surface all rough and jagged), then a solid would be the best way to go.

    What is your suggestions Clay, can the rough edges be machined or is it only going to have to be a clean edge cut?
     
  27. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    I think that I speak for Clay when I say that these will be resin cast and plated, not machined metal, regardless which version is offered. Trust me - you're *NOT* going to want to drop a 15 pound aluminum triangular wedge on your feet. :p

    Not even the hero triangle was machined metal, and the engraved master pattern will likely not be metal either, because if it is to be offered in 2 broken halves, the break region on one half will have to be sculpted and then mirrored for the other half, hence we'd need a workable material like delrin. The break area could be sculpted with a Dremel tool.

    If anyone wants to volunteer their kung-fu sculpting skills, please post here or PM/e-mail me or Clay. :)

    - Gabe
     
  28. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    [​IMG]

    Things I noticed:

    1) This line goes straight horizontal from the curve to the loop.

    2) This line merges with the verticle one. (no stop line)

    3) This line looks like it continues up.

    4) This line is thinner than the others.

    5) This line looks to fat. It looks like it should be the same size as the others.

    6) This line overlaps the outside border.


    FB
     
  29. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Franz, you have different changes for each side, I'm going on the assumption that the whole thing is symetric.
    tif
     
  30. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    The changes apply to both sides. I just didn't mark both sides.

    I would get one side done, then flip it for the other.

    FB
     
  31. RelicMaker

    RelicMaker Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh man. I was hoping this was going to be a nice big piece of machined metal, since Clay has the resources to do so. The hero prop from the pictures posted definitely look as if the prop is supposed to be some kind of metal, due to the metallic glare being given off of it. Plus, I'm not sure if anyone else here is interested (Post if you are), but I would love to have the joined triangle as a solid piece of machined metal. I don't even care if it lands on my foot someday. Having this baby in solid metal and polished up real nice to look as if it were silver would be seriously SWEET...
     
  32. TFrosst

    TFrosst Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It still doesn't have to be solid metal. If Clay casts it in the AMT stuff, you can still polish it up nice and you wouldn't tell the difference from what I hear.
     
  33. RelicMaker

    RelicMaker Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I just thought it would be cool to have it as close as possible to the real thing. The real thing being if the triangle really existed in real life, and it being made of some type of metal.
     
  34. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    It looks like Pewter or Lead to me.

    I think the AMT would look real good..

    Does it come in silver Clay? I've only seen the gold color.


    FB
     
  35. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Here's what I see that needs to be changed:

    [​IMG]

    Keeps getting better. :) :thumbsup

    - Gabe
     
  36. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Ok--lets get down to it here--We ARE going to machine the first one out of solid aluminum. After that we will see how much machine time we have into it and see what the cost will be for a machined one. I can coat it with my AMT metal and make it look like whatever I want after that . Or I can just polish the aluminum to a mirror-like finish.
    Once I have the master then I will be making a mold and offering it in a couple of variations--

    Color is not a big deal--go to my website to see options there on the various metals. AMT

    As far as the triangle being split or solid--I am going to make the first one solid. After that we can have it EDM'ed and split. That way you will never see the split when the halves are joined as we will be cutting them with a .010 wire. For those that want the split to look jagged, I can do that also, but when they are joined it will be noticeable--

    Whichever way you want them, they will be offered.
    Probably the most affordable will be the ones that I make resin casts of and coat them with the AMT product.

    Question--Are we going to be particular about the configuration of the break line?? I would like it to follow the original as closely as possible. Any help or ideas here will be appreciated.

    Juno--Great job on the drawing so far. Franz is really picking it apart--Hope you dont mind too much. There is one area that I noticed also and I will put it up ther as soon as I can.

    I have the material on the way for this one and we are ready to start the prototype.

    For those of you that are wondering, I havent been authorized to post in the JY yet--but I have material here to start on the Knucks for those who have emailed me. I will be getting back with all of you soon.


    If you start to see them offered on Ebay sometime in the near future--dont worry--any of the RPFers have first shot at them on the first run, and not for the price I will be asking on Ebay.( You all are special... :thumbsup B) ) I just want to see what kind of interest I can create so know if I need to increase the production run and order more material. Get it cheaper that way.

    Lets keep rolling here--Great job all so far... Cant wait to see the progress.

    Appliedmetal
     
  37. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Not sure if I am of base here but look at these and let me know what you all think.
    Appliedmetal.

    [​IMG]
     
  38. Kevin

    Kevin Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    This is looking great. I have painted over the image to show where I think there should be some minor changes. The biggest thing for me is that I see a thicker line over the eyelid that connects with the bottom of the triangle.

    [attachmentid=7033]

    I hope the image is clear enough to make out.
     
  39. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay, a lot of these changes are on one side and not the other -- so the question remains. . . do I make it symmetric or not?

    I spent some time today working on capping the DVD. Here is what I came up with for the corner. Note that it eliminates / changes some of the changes requested.
    [​IMG]
     
  40. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Everything looks mirrored to me except the squiggle beneath the Eye of Horus.

    - Gabe
     
  41. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    The bottom is symetrical.

    I copied the left side over to the right and it matched up pretty good. Slight variations, but not enough to matter.

    This is what is looks like with 2 left sides. (one flipped of course).

    [​IMG]

    Don't use just the one picture for reference. This one below shows a lot more detail than the one thats taken straight on.

    [​IMG]

    I think if a point is brought up and you don't agree, you should state it and we can scrutinize it a little more. I'm not always right so I hope I'm not coming across as a know it all.

    All but #3 of my comments I believe are accurate. On the above pic, the line looks like it continues. This could be an optical trick because of the texture background of the piece.

    Since it's symetrical, I think all comments refer to both sides.

    Why not just work on the left side first, then once it's done, flip it and your finished. Don't even show the right side for now. That way the comments can be more focused.

    FB
     
  42. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I think that the initial pattern was symmetric, and that the sculptor took some liberties when creating it. I don't think the original was machined (just my opinion).

    Oh, and the b&w pic I posted is not taken from the priest scene. It's earlier when Lord Croft is explaining the legend.
    tif
     
  43. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Just my 2 cents here but I think that if it is symmetrical on both sides (left and right-front and back)--that is what we are looking for.

    Appliedmetal
     
  44. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Franz Bolo, you're my new hero

    Version 12832.1
    [​IMG]
     
  45. Eaglewood

    Eaglewood Sr Member

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    Tif,
    I talked with Franz and he told me how he helped--that is awesome. Hope it made your job easier.

    Looking good--I sent you a PM--but I guess I sent it to Franz instead-- :confused :confused

    Guess Id better watch where I click with this darned mouse--

    Anyhow, Cant wait to get the pic so we can get going...
    Clay
     
  46. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    ;)
     
  47. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Sorry, guys, but I keep seeing what to me are very obvious interpretive mistakes carried on to each new version:

    [​IMG]

    If I had the time and knew how do create line art in Photoshop, I'd take a crack at it, but since I don't on both counts, I'd appreciate your feedback to my suggestions, especially if you're going to solicit my opinions and others'...

    - Gabe
     
  48. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sorry Gabe, I'm not intentionally ignoring anyone's suggestions. I redrew all the knotwork in that second one using an Illustrator technique Franz suggested that makes it both more accurate and easier on me. I know that there's no border, I just accidentally left it off (again). Like history, I just must be condemned to repeat myself.

    I've made your suggested adjustments, I completely see what you're talking about on the border's and the knots. I know both Clay and Kevin had changes -- however I've redone much of it. I'll re-look over the suggested changes tomorrow and attempt to implement. If you see anything else that's off on this one, let me know. I really don't mind -- as long as you guys don't mind telling me.
    [​IMG]
     
  49. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    My apologies if I'm not synchronized with your pace or am commenting on obsolete versions. :D

    Here's my latest based on yours, showing the steps I took:

    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps, and thanks for being a good sport. :)

    - Gabe
     
  50. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I agree with the two right-hand "curls," but I'm not seeing the border overlap of the circles:

    [​IMG]

    I figure if I can't see it in the "relief" version it's not there -- but I could be totally missing something. I used the image on the left as the "knot-tracer."

    However -- I do realize now that they need to "mate" (hehehe) with the round border.
     

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