Tomb Raider - Triangle of Light - WIP

Can't get this image to open but lookie here:

http://www.adrianstomcat.co.uk/LaraCroft.htm

Bottom row of images.

Edit:

http://www.fionn.org.uk/tomb.htm

badge.jpg


badge_comp.jpg
 
I grabbed Gabe's pic and will take a look at them. I like the stand, although I don't put my stuff on stands.

More work this afternoon, but at the moment it's 65 outside and the puppy calls.

It seems there are a million different versions of the triangle. Here's another one, I picked up the "eye-con" as a necklace. I live in Cincinnati, and the Tomb Raider ride at Paramount's Kings Island was selling them for a while:

108169057_b926043955.jpg


108169000_2e76febd2e.jpg
 
Those are the best TOL shots I could get off the DVD. If someone can play their copy on an HDTV widescreen TV and take a digital pic during pause (tripod, no flash, 2 second timer to eliminate vibrations), we could probably squeeze a bit more detail out of it.

The "eyecon" pendant, embossed packaging, and the Range Rover door seal are all exactly based on these graphics, saved from the DVD-ROM files:

eyemark_w.gif


mstrmark_w.gif


triangle_w.gif


None of these have anywhere near the level of detail as seen in the Triangle of Light and Clock of Ages props. I believe they're just simplified representations.

In the mean time:

triangle_notch.JPG


[*ahem* pardon the typo in vertices... :$ ]

and Clay, by your command:

triangle_gap_assy.JPG


The break region is obviously simplified - I wouldn't do that in CAD anyway. Once a master triangle has been machined in a workable material such as MDF, I'd have someone sculpt the break region into the master using a Dremel tool, create a plaster mold off of the new sclulpt, merge it with the other half of the triangle to create pattern B, and then make a new RTV mold off it. I don't work in resin, but I can definitely think of a couple of members off the bat who'd be perfect for the job. :)

- Gabe
 
Never thought of the HD thing -- and here my pops said my HD tv was just to pick up boys ;)
 
Version 3.0

Off-hand, I'm thinking
1. The outer rim triangles are a wee bit too big, but they are equilateral, no?
2. Forgive my idiocy, but are there more than three layers in this? It appears that the knotwork is laying over a textured background. However the knotwork is on the same level as the outer ring. I don't know...I think I'm babbling from lack of sleep.

108513252_b1ab262603_o.jpg
 
Is this piece going to be made as the broken Triangle or when it is joined?
I would think that unless you can make the broken edges actually look like as if the metal was broken apart (edge surface all rough and jagged), then a solid would be the best way to go.

What is your suggestions Clay, can the rough edges be machined or is it only going to have to be a clean edge cut?
 
Originally posted by RelicMaker@Mar 5 2006, 08:38 PM
Is this piece going to be made as the broken Triangle or when it is joined?
I would think that unless you can make the broken edges actually look like as if the metal was broken apart (edge surface all rough and jagged), then a solid would be the best way to go.

What is your suggestions Clay, can the rough edges be machined or is it only going to have to be a clean edge cut?
[snapback]1199648[/snapback]​
I think that I speak for Clay when I say that these will be resin cast and plated, not machined metal, regardless which version is offered. Trust me - you're *NOT* going to want to drop a 15 pound aluminum triangular wedge on your feet. :p

Not even the hero triangle was machined metal, and the engraved master pattern will likely not be metal either, because if it is to be offered in 2 broken halves, the break region on one half will have to be sculpted and then mirrored for the other half, hence we'd need a workable material like delrin. The break area could be sculpted with a Dremel tool.

If anyone wants to volunteer their kung-fu sculpting skills, please post here or PM/e-mail me or Clay. :)

- Gabe
 
triangle2.jpg


Things I noticed:

1) This line goes straight horizontal from the curve to the loop.

2) This line merges with the verticle one. (no stop line)

3) This line looks like it continues up.

4) This line is thinner than the others.

5) This line looks to fat. It looks like it should be the same size as the others.

6) This line overlaps the outside border.


FB
 
Franz, you have different changes for each side, I'm going on the assumption that the whole thing is symetric.
tif
 
The changes apply to both sides. I just didn't mark both sides.

I would get one side done, then flip it for the other.

FB
 
Originally posted by juno+Mar 6 2006, 03:39 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(juno @ Mar 6 2006, 03:39 AM)</div>
108513252_b1ab262603_o.jpg

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<!--QuoteBegin-Prop Runner
@Mar 6 2006, 05:51 AM
I think that I speak for Clay when I say that these will be resin cast and plated, not machined metal, regardless which version is offered.  Trust me - you're *NOT* going to want to drop a 15 pound aluminum triangular wedge on your feet.  :p

Oh man. I was hoping this was going to be a nice big piece of machined metal, since Clay has the resources to do so. The hero prop from the pictures posted definitely look as if the prop is supposed to be some kind of metal, due to the metallic glare being given off of it. Plus, I'm not sure if anyone else here is interested (Post if you are), but I would love to have the joined triangle as a solid piece of machined metal. I don't even care if it lands on my foot someday. Having this baby in solid metal and polished up real nice to look as if it were silver would be seriously SWEET...
 
It still doesn't have to be solid metal. If Clay casts it in the AMT stuff, you can still polish it up nice and you wouldn't tell the difference from what I hear.
 
I just thought it would be cool to have it as close as possible to the real thing. The real thing being if the triangle really existed in real life, and it being made of some type of metal.
 
It looks like Pewter or Lead to me.

I think the AMT would look real good..

Does it come in silver Clay? I've only seen the gold color.


FB
 
Originally posted by Prop Runner+Mar 6 2006, 01:51 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Prop Runner @ Mar 6 2006, 01:51 AM)</div>
<!--QuoteBegin-RelicMaker
@Mar 5 2006, 08:38 PM
Is this piece going to be made as the broken Triangle or when it is joined?
I would think that unless you can make the broken edges actually look like as if the metal was broken apart (edge surface all rough and jagged), then a solid would be the best way to go.

What is your suggestions Clay, can the rough edges be machined or is it only going to have to be a clean edge cut?
[snapback]1199648[/snapback]​
I think that I speak for Clay when I say that these will be resin cast and plated, not machined metal, regardless which version is offered. Trust me - you're *NOT* going to want to drop a 15 pound aluminum triangular wedge on your feet. :p

Not even the hero triangle was machined metal, and the engraved master pattern will likely not be metal either, because if it is to be offered in 2 broken halves, the break region on one half will have to be sculpted and then mirrored for the other half, hence we'd need a workable material like delrin. The break area could be sculpted with a Dremel tool.

If anyone wants to volunteer their kung-fu sculpting skills, please post here or PM/e-mail me or Clay. :)

- Gabe
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Ok--lets get down to it here--We ARE going to machine the first one out of solid aluminum. After that we will see how much machine time we have into it and see what the cost will be for a machined one. I can coat it with my AMT metal and make it look like whatever I want after that . Or I can just polish the aluminum to a mirror-like finish.
Once I have the master then I will be making a mold and offering it in a couple of variations--

Color is not a big deal--go to my website to see options there on the various metals. AMT

As far as the triangle being split or solid--I am going to make the first one solid. After that we can have it EDM'ed and split. That way you will never see the split when the halves are joined as we will be cutting them with a .010 wire. For those that want the split to look jagged, I can do that also, but when they are joined it will be noticeable--

Whichever way you want them, they will be offered.
Probably the most affordable will be the ones that I make resin casts of and coat them with the AMT product.

Question--Are we going to be particular about the configuration of the break line?? I would like it to follow the original as closely as possible. Any help or ideas here will be appreciated.

Juno--Great job on the drawing so far. Franz is really picking it apart--Hope you dont mind too much. There is one area that I noticed also and I will put it up ther as soon as I can.

I have the material on the way for this one and we are ready to start the prototype.

For those of you that are wondering, I havent been authorized to post in the JY yet--but I have material here to start on the Knucks for those who have emailed me. I will be getting back with all of you soon.


If you start to see them offered on Ebay sometime in the near future--dont worry--any of the RPFers have first shot at them on the first run, and not for the price I will be asking on Ebay.( You all are special... :thumbsup B) ) I just want to see what kind of interest I can create so know if I need to increase the production run and order more material. Get it cheaper that way.

Lets keep rolling here--Great job all so far... Cant wait to see the progress.

Appliedmetal
 
Originally posted by Prop Runner@Mar 6 2006, 03:54 PM
Here's what I see that needs to be changed:

triangle_edits.jpg


Keeps getting better.  :)  :thumbsup

- Gabe
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Not sure if I am of base here but look at these and let me know what you all think.
Appliedmetal.

 
Hi,

This is looking great. I have painted over the image to show where I think there should be some minor changes. The biggest thing for me is that I see a thicker line over the eyelid that connects with the bottom of the triangle.

[attachmentid=7033]

I hope the image is clear enough to make out.
 
Okay, a lot of these changes are on one side and not the other -- so the question remains. . . do I make it symmetric or not?

I spent some time today working on capping the DVD. Here is what I came up with for the corner. Note that it eliminates / changes some of the changes requested.
108844753_732ab46fc2_o.jpg
 
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