TND's Jedi Training Remote / Seeker (#2 and #3)

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theyrenotdolls

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm starting a new build of a second and third training remote. I completed one of these years ago and had a lot of fun doing it.

My prior build was in TheRealMcFly 's thread titled Revisiting the Training Remote.

This thread and the other builds there heavily reference BrundelFly 's somewhat definitive tutorial.

My approach is a little different this time. The parts requiring styrene to be cut out will be replaced by 3D rinted parts. (the large single rectangle, the three rectangles, the semicircles).

I think i'm going to do two builds simultaneously. one will be from original model kit parts and the other will be 3D printed parts.



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As the first time, starting with Plastruct 6" hemispheres
sanding and marking the 45degree sections and marking where some of the parts will be placed.


I've printed some of the pieces.
The tank parts are all printed and ready but I'm going to revamp the 3 rectangles, single rectangles, semicircles (they're too thin, need to be approx 1.1mm, currently at 0.7mm ish).
The advantage of printing these rather than simply cutting out of styrene is that the remote is curved and they can be printed with the correct curve, which is particularly useful for the semicircles.

I'm printing on my Elegoo Mars. the parts are printed at 0.025mm layer height, with supports, elegoo resin in various colors.

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the 3D printed parts come from a couple of different models on thingiverse:



This printer is really great for small details like this. the little U bracket thingy is so tiny but comes out really nice.

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this is after removing all of the supports from the prints.
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That's all for now. I hope you enjoy.
 
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theyrenotdolls

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
small update today.

I drilled the holes for the chrome rims. First I drilled small 1/8 pilot holes, then increased them to about 3/8. I then used a large 7/8 bit followed by a sanding drum on the dremel to get them to their final size.
For the 7/8 bit, I scored the dome from the outside, then drilled from the inside out, with my workbench acting as a backing board, which helped prevent tear out.

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next, i used some of the scrap printed rectangles as tabs. I glued them to the interior of two of the domes, which will help later on when attaching top dome to the bottom dome.
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Enjoy.
 

Ridire Firean

Sr Member
DUDE! theyrenotdolls ! You're so brave! I can't believe you used that BIG OLE BIT to cut that plastic! I am amazed that it didn't crack in half on you.

These builds are fun to watch; getting to see what everyone uses in their approach to solving the different aspects of how to modify and assemble the replica is always interesting.

Whenever I get around to working on mine, I'm going to use this bit in my Dremel tool for the wheel holes...

DREMEL - BIT - Model No 562 Tile Cutting Bit.jpg


It's a Model No 562 Tile Cutting Bit, and it cuts through plastic like butter. Safety glasses are mandatory, and work gloves are a good idea too though, as the bit tends to send molten globs of plastic flinging off into the air in every direction.

I'll probably finish off the wheel holes with micro files and sandpaper.

Good Luck on your Jedi Training Remotes!! I'm looking forward to seeing how your 3D printed styrene parts turn out!
 

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theyrenotdolls

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Luuke : The spade bit is what i had on hand. I just went slow, drilled inside out with backer board and it worked perfectly. step bit is a great idea though. I agree and would encourage others to use that as well. Would still use a backer board though. Good tip. thanks, maybe i'll use it if I ever do a 4th remote. lol

Ridire Firean : Regarding the 3D printed styrene parts, I have to do a little maintenance on the printer and hopefully have them reprinted soon. If you look at the last picture i posted, of the tabs on the inside. those are some of the rectangles i printed, they were too thin, so I'm reprinting them. (they were printed at 0.7mm ish thickness.... where 0.04in styrene was used in BrundelFly 's tutorial and that comes out close to 1.1mm -ish)I decided to use the discarded versions as tabs.

thanks for the feedback yall (canister)
 
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TazMan2000

Master Member
I used a hole saw, the one that screws onto the drill bit shaft. Clean holes almost perfect size for the AMT hubs. I just needed to sand the hole for a few seconds.

TazMan2000
 

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theyrenotdolls

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
progressing...

working on the version with all 3D printed parts.
Step one of gluing the parts onto the hemispheres.

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for the "three small rectangles", they were printed as a "trio" on supports that were connected. In order to maintain the right spacing, I put some tape on the front, removed the supports, sanded the back, glued them onto the hemisphere, then removed the tape from the front.
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enjoy, more to come....
 

BrundelFly

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
For the Rings around the Rims.....
If I was gonna do it all over....

I would vaccum form plastic over the Spheres.....then cut them out. MUCH easier.
 

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TazMan2000

Master Member
There are two easy ways to do it without vacuforming. Cut out the pieces out of thin styrene and use your fingers and fingernails to round out or 'bubble' each piece. Basically rounding it out with the pressure of your fingers. It's what I did on mine.

Or you can cut slices in the middle of the pieces so they split apart with the curvature of the sphere. But you will need to fill them in afterwards.

TazMan2000
 

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theyrenotdolls

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
BrundelFly and TazMan2000, I struggled with this on my first remote build and it stalled my project for a long time. I still havent built a vacuformer.

This time I used the thingiverse files I linked in the first post, extracted the semicircles, three rectangles and single rectangle. I 3D printed them. The nice part is that they retain their curvature. Here are some quick pics of the semicircles taped to the hemisphere.
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TazMan2000

Master Member
theyrenotdolls , that would work too. When I built mine, I rounded off the panels, but if you look at the pictures of the actual movie prop, the panels had sharp corners. Personally, I think it looks better with the rounded panels.

TazMan2000
 

BrundelFly

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
There are two easy ways to do it without vacuforming. Cut out the pieces out of thin styrene and use your fingers and fingernails to round out or 'bubble' each piece. Basically rounding it out with the pressure of your fingers. It's what I did on mine.

Or you can cut slices in the middle of the pieces so they split apart with the curvature of the sphere. But you will need to fill them in afterwards.

TazMan2000


That is how the old guide I made did it. It worked.
 

theyrenotdolls

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
small update today.
I started assembling my 3rd remote. I initially was going to used original model kit parts but since the 3D printed parts came out so well, I decided to stick with those. I guess I should get rid of those kit parts now.
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Also, on the 2nd remote I have all of the parts attached except for a few, but it was time to assemble the two halves. I used a 5 min epoxy, then sanded up to 400 grit then primed. it looks as though there's still some smoothing to be done with some putty but i think it looks so cool in this primer stage.
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