docholiday78
Sr Member
hey Im not alone ..wohoo!! i too have half an Ironman n no motivation lol Yup Rebo was right on lol :unsure
Tips from Newbie to Newbies (on foam build - for now)
- Thread starter IMIM2
- Start date
hey Im not alone ..wohoo!! i too have half an Ironman n no motivation lol Yup Rebo was right on lol :unsure
IMIM2
Sr Member
Mark,
Are refering on how to connect the fingers?
Initially I glued an elastic band on the top side of fingers.
Since I only had like 3mm wide, I used two strips.
I collected all the bands, glue it to velcro strip, and the other side of velcro is glued to the inner top side of the upper palm.
I was not quite happy with it, and decided to replace it with black cable ties on the lower side of the fingers. Some people use fishing lines or guitar string.
Tip #19 Connecting the fingers (tip #17 from Rebo and tip#18 from Helagak)
Then I saw plastic tube, normally used for AC water outlets (white ones, but I did found the silver ones). I used 1in dia. and cut it 1/3 of the circumference and planning to use it each cut at the top and at the bottom. The edge need to have rounded cut as it get quite sharp/pointy.
On the top side, the strip might be cut into to and glued only at the middle knuckle (am I right using knuckle?), so when we do fist, the tube actually not stretched, but just simply "slide"
Why cut in 1/3? flexibility.The whole tube is quite rigid for a finger to bend, but when cut into strips, there are very flexible. Also we have different diameter for fingers. With a black/red gloves, it'll be just fine. The tube itself can be painted in metallic red, but I like the silver color.
The picture shows my WIP, as I easily get distracted with other projects. But since you asked, I thought I 'd share this. The black strips are the elastic band.
Hope it helps.
Are refering on how to connect the fingers?
Initially I glued an elastic band on the top side of fingers.
Since I only had like 3mm wide, I used two strips.
I collected all the bands, glue it to velcro strip, and the other side of velcro is glued to the inner top side of the upper palm.
I was not quite happy with it, and decided to replace it with black cable ties on the lower side of the fingers. Some people use fishing lines or guitar string.
Tip #19 Connecting the fingers (tip #17 from Rebo and tip#18 from Helagak)
Then I saw plastic tube, normally used for AC water outlets (white ones, but I did found the silver ones). I used 1in dia. and cut it 1/3 of the circumference and planning to use it each cut at the top and at the bottom. The edge need to have rounded cut as it get quite sharp/pointy.
On the top side, the strip might be cut into to and glued only at the middle knuckle (am I right using knuckle?), so when we do fist, the tube actually not stretched, but just simply "slide"
Why cut in 1/3? flexibility.The whole tube is quite rigid for a finger to bend, but when cut into strips, there are very flexible. Also we have different diameter for fingers. With a black/red gloves, it'll be just fine. The tube itself can be painted in metallic red, but I like the silver color.
The picture shows my WIP, as I easily get distracted with other projects. But since you asked, I thought I 'd share this. The black strips are the elastic band.
Hope it helps.
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IMIM2
Sr Member
Master Stealth,
You are my inspiration on why I started this thread. It's an honor to have you finally write something on this.
Per your comment, actually, I used pressure switch (see picture) before, but since I do no fiberglass/plastidip/resin on the helmet, I need something strong to align the faceplate, so I use magnet, and thought to combine it and drop the switch.
Since the magnet requires more force to separate, yeah, I agree if we use motorized hinges, don't go magnet. A Switch will do just fine.
You are my inspiration on why I started this thread. It's an honor to have you finally write something on this.
Per your comment, actually, I used pressure switch (see picture) before, but since I do no fiberglass/plastidip/resin on the helmet, I need something strong to align the faceplate, so I use magnet, and thought to combine it and drop the switch.
Since the magnet requires more force to separate, yeah, I agree if we use motorized hinges, don't go magnet. A Switch will do just fine.
STEALTH
Sr Member
Hey man,
I actually stumbled onto your thread for the first time today. Such great tips, huge time savers.
the kind of info I'd like to know if I was a newbie for sure.
After the Eye light tutorial I filmed, I wanted to cover the mod for the faceplate on/off and I noticed you mentioned it here as well.
It's a very nice set-up for sure and gets the job done. That's what I always prefer.
Not overcomplicating things. Keeping it SIMPLE.
I will link people to this thread in that video for sure.
I actually stumbled onto your thread for the first time today. Such great tips, huge time savers.
the kind of info I'd like to know if I was a newbie for sure.
After the Eye light tutorial I filmed, I wanted to cover the mod for the faceplate on/off and I noticed you mentioned it here as well.
It's a very nice set-up for sure and gets the job done. That's what I always prefer.
Not overcomplicating things. Keeping it SIMPLE.
I will link people to this thread in that video for sure.
IMIM2
Sr Member
I'd like to use numbers on the tips so we can keep track and reference it afterward. So I did some edit on tip#19 (counting Rebos at #17 and Helagak's at #18)
@Mark
I made a quick (read:lazy) illustration about connecting the fingers, especially on how to glue it. I keep the top strips only glued to the finger tip, because it requires some "stretches". Since the strip do not stretch, I make it longer, and it stores inside the palm. The bottom strip, since it can accommodate "shrink", I glue it to all finger knuckles and to palm. This strip is actually the one to keep the fingers "in position". This even have to make it thinner, perhaps 1/4 of the circumference.
Hope it give more better picture on the setup.
@Stealth: Thank you for the link-ing.
@BobbyS95: I serve the RPF community, help in anyway I can. The more questions to come, if I can help, the more material I get to share. Everybody can join in too of course.
I'm still a newbie, my suit is far less than perfect, but it's nice to know that somebody find my thread helpful (and save money, time, and eventually save life..., to become a true superhero, one must save a lot of lifes :unsure)
@Mark
I made a quick (read:lazy) illustration about connecting the fingers, especially on how to glue it. I keep the top strips only glued to the finger tip, because it requires some "stretches". Since the strip do not stretch, I make it longer, and it stores inside the palm. The bottom strip, since it can accommodate "shrink", I glue it to all finger knuckles and to palm. This strip is actually the one to keep the fingers "in position". This even have to make it thinner, perhaps 1/4 of the circumference.
Hope it give more better picture on the setup.
@Stealth: Thank you for the link-ing.
@BobbyS95: I serve the RPF community, help in anyway I can. The more questions to come, if I can help, the more material I get to share. Everybody can join in too of course.
I'm still a newbie, my suit is far less than perfect, but it's nice to know that somebody find my thread helpful (and save money, time, and eventually save life..., to become a true superhero, one must save a lot of lifes :unsure)
mark0017
Well-Known Member
This tip, as with all the others is genius......i love the look that the plastic pipe gives to the fingers and i'll definitely be using this method.
Thanks again for saving my ass IMIM2 :lol
mark0017
Well-Known Member
That picture explains it perfectly mate, thanks as always :thumbsup
crying legacy
New Member
thanks for the tips i will use them in future projects
mark0017
Well-Known Member
WOW :eek Well that's me re motivated for sure lol.....cool pic mate:lol
IMIM2
Sr Member
@crying legacy: glad it's helpful
@LeDragon: thanks to you too, more to come.
@mark: should print it out and put in your work bench!
Tip #20: Arc reactor (yeah, yeah, another one)
I am not sure if this should be on this thread or a new one, but let me just put it here.
You've seen my arc reactor on my suit. The picture shows what underneath the white plastic lid. Probably the most cheapo one can ever get :lol. Well, I decided to upgrade it.
Arc reactor should be 3-3.5in diameter (that's what I read). So I've been thinking what would be a perfect metal ring in about that diameter? The answer is actually within my real job: halogen downlight/spot fitting. And I saw a very unusual model that has segmented frame. It's not cheap, but that thing has been haunting me for days. My only regret was that I bought it one day before Stealth post his video on arc reactor :facepalm. His is the metal cap of thermal mug, why wouldn't I think about that? :facepalm:facepalm
So here I am, sharing not so cool arc reactor.
First to assemble is glue stick. Thanks to familyman's idea, I make a translucent ring out of glue stick.
I flipped the outer ring of the fitting, and cut the holder flaps. (I'm sorry I don't have any picture of it). On the inner segment, I use plastic sheets, sandblast/flakes film, and PWMF sticker.
Other parts is created by using scrap foam: outer ring, inner ring, fins.
The fins actually is used to extend the arc diameter to exactly 12cm (exact hole on my chest plate).
Paint the whole thing in silver (wheathered) except the inner ring (it's immitation gold plated, so I don't have a heart to cover it with silver paint, and it turned out it gives nice reflection from LED strip)
I used LED strip on the outer ring, and 6 DIP LEDs on the inner ring.
The black strips is actually black duct tape. I misplaced my copper wire, so I need to buy again.
My friend help me to make 12cm dia. clear acrylic lens, and he made it two (2mm and 3mm thick), awesome.
So this is it, my arc reactor,it's not even close to the movie version (as so does my suit). BTW, without the fins, this can be worn under T-shirt, except it is quite heavy.
(I apologize, I forgot where I downloaded the arc reactor picture that I used for guidance).
It's not a good tip, but maybe it gives you more perspective on arc reactor. What do you guys think?
@LeDragon: thanks to you too, more to come.
@mark: should print it out and put in your work bench!
Tip #20: Arc reactor (yeah, yeah, another one)
I am not sure if this should be on this thread or a new one, but let me just put it here.
You've seen my arc reactor on my suit. The picture shows what underneath the white plastic lid. Probably the most cheapo one can ever get :lol. Well, I decided to upgrade it.
Arc reactor should be 3-3.5in diameter (that's what I read). So I've been thinking what would be a perfect metal ring in about that diameter? The answer is actually within my real job: halogen downlight/spot fitting. And I saw a very unusual model that has segmented frame. It's not cheap, but that thing has been haunting me for days. My only regret was that I bought it one day before Stealth post his video on arc reactor :facepalm. His is the metal cap of thermal mug, why wouldn't I think about that? :facepalm:facepalm
So here I am, sharing not so cool arc reactor.
First to assemble is glue stick. Thanks to familyman's idea, I make a translucent ring out of glue stick.
I flipped the outer ring of the fitting, and cut the holder flaps. (I'm sorry I don't have any picture of it). On the inner segment, I use plastic sheets, sandblast/flakes film, and PWMF sticker.
Other parts is created by using scrap foam: outer ring, inner ring, fins.
The fins actually is used to extend the arc diameter to exactly 12cm (exact hole on my chest plate).
Paint the whole thing in silver (wheathered) except the inner ring (it's immitation gold plated, so I don't have a heart to cover it with silver paint, and it turned out it gives nice reflection from LED strip)
I used LED strip on the outer ring, and 6 DIP LEDs on the inner ring.
The black strips is actually black duct tape. I misplaced my copper wire, so I need to buy again.
My friend help me to make 12cm dia. clear acrylic lens, and he made it two (2mm and 3mm thick), awesome.
So this is it, my arc reactor,it's not even close to the movie version (as so does my suit). BTW, without the fins, this can be worn under T-shirt, except it is quite heavy.
(I apologize, I forgot where I downloaded the arc reactor picture that I used for guidance).
It's not a good tip, but maybe it gives you more perspective on arc reactor. What do you guys think?
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IMIM2
Sr Member
@Helagak: thank you,it's not a race, so take your time...
@Sniggle: thank you, did I make you change your mind? :rolleyes
Tip #21: Difference of unibeam and arc reactor
I saw on other thread a short discussion about unibeam/arc reactor (thank you EOS, Bimer and TKSteve).
So I did some research on the movie and took screenshots.
That also explain why arc reactor is 3-3.5in diameter but the hole on the chest is 12cm(4 3/4in). :facepalm
Arc reactor is placed on Tony's chest, where unibeam is sit on top of it (where the brace is), and clear lens in placed on the chest.
So anybody that is making these (especially Mk6, it will not be the triangular arc under triangle shape), please note the difference. Don't place arc reactor to the chest plate
I don't have clear picture on the unibeam (I haven't run a search yet)
@Sniggle: thank you, did I make you change your mind? :rolleyes
Tip #21: Difference of unibeam and arc reactor
I saw on other thread a short discussion about unibeam/arc reactor (thank you EOS, Bimer and TKSteve).
So I did some research on the movie and took screenshots.
That also explain why arc reactor is 3-3.5in diameter but the hole on the chest is 12cm(4 3/4in). :facepalm
Arc reactor is placed on Tony's chest, where unibeam is sit on top of it (where the brace is), and clear lens in placed on the chest.
So anybody that is making these (especially Mk6, it will not be the triangular arc under triangle shape), please note the difference. Don't place arc reactor to the chest plate
I don't have clear picture on the unibeam (I haven't run a search yet)
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IMIM2
Sr Member
Finally finish the arc reactor.
I used 0.9 dia single cable as copper wrap. It's to thick. Perhaps 0.5 is okay.
I bought 2m length and it turn out not enough so I bought another 2m.
Took down the old reactor and install a new one. It looks very nice after all.
I am happy with it.
So here it is, from margarine container lid, to much better looking arc.
However it is still wrong, because it should be unibeam :facepalm.
But let me enjoy the moment here....
I used 0.9 dia single cable as copper wrap. It's to thick. Perhaps 0.5 is okay.
I bought 2m length and it turn out not enough so I bought another 2m.
Took down the old reactor and install a new one. It looks very nice after all.
I am happy with it.
So here it is, from margarine container lid, to much better looking arc.
However it is still wrong, because it should be unibeam :facepalm.
But let me enjoy the moment here....
strayrooster
New Member
This thread is great, thanks so much!!!
