Tips from Newbie to Newbies (on foam build - for now)
- Thread starter IMIM2
- Start date
IMIM2
Sr Member
It's been a while. I'm not running out of tips, still got a lot.
Tip #15 Helmet's Crown
These are the things that could happen if you do not follow tip #6 and #7:
a. Helmet too big
b. Helmet too small
c. Helmet just right but once the back side and jaw glued, the head wont fit in or ears getting red.
For b, it's just too bad.
For c, I got tip #2. Making a bigger helmet is also another solution if you decided not to do tip#2.
For a, I have a solution by making inner crown. This will help even a slightly bigger helmet stay in place and move around the head, preventing unnecessary helmet movement.
A very simple foam strip wrapped around the head and put flaps (inward or outward or no flaps) to glue it to the helmet. The height of the crown and the diameter of it really depends on your preference.
I like to have my helmet slightly bigger, because:
a. I wear glasses
b. Easier to breathe > cooler
c. Give some slack for LED in the eyes
i don't know how to illustrate this, but hope you'll get the idea.
Tip #15 Helmet's Crown
These are the things that could happen if you do not follow tip #6 and #7:
a. Helmet too big
b. Helmet too small
c. Helmet just right but once the back side and jaw glued, the head wont fit in or ears getting red.
For b, it's just too bad.
For c, I got tip #2. Making a bigger helmet is also another solution if you decided not to do tip#2.
For a, I have a solution by making inner crown. This will help even a slightly bigger helmet stay in place and move around the head, preventing unnecessary helmet movement.
A very simple foam strip wrapped around the head and put flaps (inward or outward or no flaps) to glue it to the helmet. The height of the crown and the diameter of it really depends on your preference.
I like to have my helmet slightly bigger, because:
a. I wear glasses
b. Easier to breathe > cooler
c. Give some slack for LED in the eyes
i don't know how to illustrate this, but hope you'll get the idea.
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IMIM2
Sr Member
Tip #16 LED strip installation
Another question from RPF member via PM that I will share to all.
LED strip comes in different size, and specs, I am not going to cover that.
But normally, I will suggest to use 30 LED/m, and protected (there a lot of protection type, I show mine in the picture). If it requires more condensed LED, try 60LED/m or even 120LED/m. That will eliminate "black spots" between LEDs, and shorten the gap between LED and diffuser/lens. But it will require more juice from the battery and heat build up too.
How to connect? The picture show with explanation.
Hope this is helpful.
It's getting dry in here.
Another question from RPF member via PM that I will share to all.
LED strip comes in different size, and specs, I am not going to cover that.
But normally, I will suggest to use 30 LED/m, and protected (there a lot of protection type, I show mine in the picture). If it requires more condensed LED, try 60LED/m or even 120LED/m. That will eliminate "black spots" between LEDs, and shorten the gap between LED and diffuser/lens. But it will require more juice from the battery and heat build up too.
How to connect? The picture show with explanation.
Hope this is helpful.
It's getting dry in here.
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P4r4dox86
Well-Known Member
Where do you normally buy your strip LEDs from mate? I'm looking at picking up some eventually for my Ironman etc in the future. Do general electrical stores carry it? I've found singular LEDs easily enough, not sure if the place I've found carries the strips or not lol
IMIM2
Sr Member
I use LED strip a lot in my current work so I have plenty of them in different color,length and types. The down side of using the stripis that you need to buy a whole roll (5m) but only use so little.DIP type is cheaper nothing wrong with that too, it runs on lower voltage. I see more and more stores carry this, as we move away from fluorescent lightbulb to LED too.
Good luck on building your Captain America and many others to come.
Good luck on building your Captain America and many others to come.
P4r4dox86
Well-Known Member
Actually did a search on the website for the store I was planning on going too (hadn't gotten around to it before now lol) and found a twin pack that could be perfect. What do you think?
2 x 6 LED Light 12VDC Strip Kits - Jaycar Electronics
Saves me buying a whole roll and it comes in either blue or white, both of which could be useful for Ironman eyes
.Or this which they cut and charge for per 100mm
Flexible Adhesive LED Strip, RGB - Jaycar Electronics
That would probably be better I think.
Thanks for the luck
docholiday78
Sr Member
great tip! I didnt know it can get nice clean lines. So I've been goin too fast all this time lol. awesome that ya want to help beginners out man ...much respect :thumbsup
Just wanted to post a quick thanks to IMIM2!
Greatly helpful in helping me out with the LED setup for my helmet!
I did some quick test runs with my 9v battery hookup and soldering to the referenced points in the pictures worked flawlessly.
Can't wait to finish up work on my helmet to see how everything looks.
Thanks again -- Keep the helpful tips coming!
Greatly helpful in helping me out with the LED setup for my helmet!
I did some quick test runs with my 9v battery hookup and soldering to the referenced points in the pictures worked flawlessly.
Can't wait to finish up work on my helmet to see how everything looks.
Thanks again -- Keep the helpful tips coming!
IMIM2
Sr Member
P4r4dox86,
The first one it's a bit pricey isn't it? Try to look for a roll, it should be about the same price as this strip kits? I am not too familiar with the pricing.
The second one is RGB, unless you want to have color changing eyes, don't use this. But if you do, you need to have RGB controller (with IR remote control, that'll be cool).
docholiday78,
It's an honor that you drop in. I've been following you new flexible method. Too bad I don't have access to plastidip, modpodge and bondo. Me and JFcustom were talking about flexible coating, and some alternative to replace fiberglass and resin. I've tried it but not to painting stage yet, so I can't posting it yet. So far it looks promising, and for sure it is very, very cheap.
On top of it,
Thank you all for giving me a moral and ego boost to continue what I do.
The first one it's a bit pricey isn't it? Try to look for a roll, it should be about the same price as this strip kits? I am not too familiar with the pricing.
The second one is RGB, unless you want to have color changing eyes, don't use this. But if you do, you need to have RGB controller (with IR remote control, that'll be cool).
docholiday78,
It's an honor that you drop in. I've been following you new flexible method. Too bad I don't have access to plastidip, modpodge and bondo. Me and JFcustom were talking about flexible coating, and some alternative to replace fiberglass and resin. I've tried it but not to painting stage yet, so I can't posting it yet. So far it looks promising, and for sure it is very, very cheap.
On top of it,
Thank you all for giving me a moral and ego boost to continue what I do.
IMIM2
Sr Member
@sniggle:
I apologize for my picture led strip 3.jpg was a little confusing. It looks like the wire is crossed, but actually the right strip was upside down (see the printing R3 is upside down). I wanted to show, no matter you place the strip, as long as you connect (+) to (+), it's correct.
Here is the illustration again, (I aoplogize for not using proper symbol for switch).
Hope it's clear enough.
I apologize for my picture led strip 3.jpg was a little confusing. It looks like the wire is crossed, but actually the right strip was upside down (see the printing R3 is upside down). I wanted to show, no matter you place the strip, as long as you connect (+) to (+), it's correct.
Here is the illustration again, (I aoplogize for not using proper symbol for switch).
Hope it's clear enough.
Rebo
Well-Known Member
Some handy tips IMIM2.:thumbsup
Can I add a tip (well advice)?.
Build in pairs.
Don't build one leg and then move on to build an arm, you won't want to go back and build that second leg because you know what frustration is waiting for you.
Glue one part on the left, then repeat on the right, this helps because you dont have to remember how you modded a part to get it to fit right. You'll be glad you did it this way, trust me.
Can I add a tip (well advice)?.
Build in pairs.
Don't build one leg and then move on to build an arm, you won't want to go back and build that second leg because you know what frustration is waiting for you.
Glue one part on the left, then repeat on the right, this helps because you dont have to remember how you modded a part to get it to fit right. You'll be glad you did it this way, trust me.
IMIM2
Sr Member
Finally....
Rebo, please go ahead, post your tips here. The more the merrier.
My personal experience (since I lack of P=patience and I got bored easily), I hate repetition. Doing it twice to me just burning my patience.
However, build in pairs is the right way, agreed.
The purpose of this thread is to gather/share/comments on tips that might helpful (or not!) on the build for others.
Rebo, please go ahead, post your tips here. The more the merrier.
My personal experience (since I lack of P=patience and I got bored easily), I hate repetition. Doing it twice to me just burning my patience.
However, build in pairs is the right way, agreed.
The purpose of this thread is to gather/share/comments on tips that might helpful (or not!) on the build for others.
Helagak
Sr Member
Hey IMIM2, I figured I'd toss up a tip that I have developed for making your angle cuts right (or at least close!) the first time you cut them.
I start by tracing all my pieces onto foam as per usual. But after that, I go thru piece by piece and examine the model on pepakura viewer and mark all the edges that need to be Angles with dots:
Dots inside the shape for angles that will create "mountains" (the majority of the angle cuts)
And dots outside the shape that will creat "valleys"
Then when I cut the angles, I first cut along the line very lightly, maybe a couple mm deep, with my knife held at about a 45 deg angle. Then I go back and cut deeper. The first cut will help to guide your second deep cut and keep your knife on the line easier.
Good luck everyone! Hope this helps!!
I start by tracing all my pieces onto foam as per usual. But after that, I go thru piece by piece and examine the model on pepakura viewer and mark all the edges that need to be Angles with dots:
Dots inside the shape for angles that will create "mountains" (the majority of the angle cuts)
And dots outside the shape that will creat "valleys"
Then when I cut the angles, I first cut along the line very lightly, maybe a couple mm deep, with my knife held at about a 45 deg angle. Then I go back and cut deeper. The first cut will help to guide your second deep cut and keep your knife on the line easier.
Good luck everyone! Hope this helps!!
IMIM2
Sr Member
Nice Helagak!
I always trying to put the mark on cardboard templates but always forgot to transfer it to the foam, silly me :facepalm.
Really like the dots, I always use dots and X, but putting the dots outside, why I never thought about it :facepalm:facepalm
"I first cut along the line very lightly, maybe a couple mm deep" > So now you go metric huh?
This is what bothers me when using 10mm foam: I have to run the blade twice (regardless angle or straight cut). You pointed it out that. For me, running the blade twice will give a sloppy result. Even after I burn it, it still not giving me a nice "thickness wall". I would normally use scisscors to clean it, but 10mm is too thick for scissors.
BTW, single cut drains my energy fast.
Anyone have same difficulty?
I always trying to put the mark on cardboard templates but always forgot to transfer it to the foam, silly me :facepalm.
Really like the dots, I always use dots and X, but putting the dots outside, why I never thought about it :facepalm:facepalm
"I first cut along the line very lightly, maybe a couple mm deep" > So now you go metric huh?
This is what bothers me when using 10mm foam: I have to run the blade twice (regardless angle or straight cut). You pointed it out that. For me, running the blade twice will give a sloppy result. Even after I burn it, it still not giving me a nice "thickness wall". I would normally use scisscors to clean it, but 10mm is too thick for scissors.
BTW, single cut drains my energy fast.
Anyone have same difficulty?
mark0017
Well-Known Member
I'm currently at the hand stage of my build and was wondering on the prefered method for fixing them together?
If i'm using an under glove is it best to glue the fingers to that or use the process of attaching them using fishing wire?
Any tips on this would be most welcome
thanks in advance
If i'm using an under glove is it best to glue the fingers to that or use the process of attaching them using fishing wire?
Any tips on this would be most welcome
thanks in advance
mark0017
Well-Known Member
I discovered this tip too late:facepalm....i made all the left side of my suit first and now i have to motivate myself to tackle the right side, knowing what a pain it will be:rolleyes
Any future projects i undertake will indeed be built in pairs mainly for how i needed to mod each piece as Rebo stated
STEALTH
Sr Member
Re: Tips from Newbie to Newbies
This is a great way of doing it. That's how I had my Helmet lights rigged to the faceplate last year but with something different to conduct the power instead of magnets as you stated., the difficulty was finding the right magnet. Especially if you need to rig a motor system in there.
Can't really go wrong the concept at all.
Keep up the awesome tips man.
This is a great way of doing it. That's how I had my Helmet lights rigged to the faceplate last year but with something different to conduct the power instead of magnets as you stated., the difficulty was finding the right magnet. Especially if you need to rig a motor system in there.
Can't really go wrong the concept at all.
Keep up the awesome tips man.
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