Tips from Newbie to Newbies (on foam build - for now)

[IMIM2]

@Helagak I tried to put the switch at the back of the wrist and failed.
I used different switches too. I had high hopes for top left one, but it didn't catch my finger movement all the time.
Looking forward to see how your plan turning.
Excuse my English, it is not bubble gum, but chewing gum. Should find it in Asian stores. Well, you don't want to end up chewing aspirin for your foam building do you, or do you?

 

[Spider M Mann]

how can I attach a picture on the post which is not attachment and not url link (insert image icon goes to url link).

I'm not exactly sure where you are having trouble, so I'll try to go through it for you in order to clarify; forgive me if I explain something you already know, I just want to be thorough. Please let me know if you need further help. (And sorry for hijacking your thread. )

The image you want to post "inline" needs to be uploaded to one of three places, and then wherever the text cursor is located when you use the Insert Image icon is where the image will be inserted in-line into the body of the post.

Here are the places where the images need to be uploaded:

1) An online, web-based image host like Flickr, which you link to directly with the Insert Image icon, which as you said uses the link to the address of the image.

2) Upload to an album in your User Control Panel (Look under "Networking" to the "Pictures & Albums" on the left hand side). The space in your albums is limited, so I personally wouldn't use this option, but if you do, just click on the image in your album, and the picture will be shown with the URLs below it. Just hotlink the image with the Insert Image icon (note that the image will not be shown in the "Attached Thumbnails" section at the bottom of the post, for this option, or #1 above):

3) Upload as an attachment, like you have been doing in your previous posts. Then, use the address of the attached image as the target when you use the Insert Image icon. In other words, hotlink your own attachment, like this next picture (note the "Attached Thumbnails" image at the bottom of the post is the same image):

 

[IMIM2]

Most helpful Spider M Mann,
I guess without posting it over image host, I can't place the pics.
Well, attachment it is then.

Hmmm, not so many visitors on this thread, perhaps if I change to "Protips: a pro giving away precious tips that can saves billions of life" might atract visitor more :lol.

Thank you again for anybody that find my threat useful. Share the result, ask clarifications, prove me I'm wrong. Your post will enlighten me and motivates me to write more.

 

[Dardger]

Thanks for your tips, they help a lot.

 

[TKSteve]

Tip #6: Check the scale
Yesterday I forgot (for my own project) the basic step on pep: Scaling. :facepalm
Recently a lot of posting regarding scaling and how to scale.
I am not gonna cover for that.
My rule of thumb: measure your body, add clearance (depending where or how fit you want to be) and add foam thickness times two.
Print one of the pages that will represent the whole length (or width or height, whichever applicable) and test fit.

Great tips! Not to be daft, but can you explain this a little better:
"My rule of thumb: measure your body, add clearance (depending where or how fit you want to be)..."

Isn't it just how the suit is supposed to look? How do I know the proper clearance?

 

[maroenli02]

Tip #6: Check the scale
Yesterday I forgot (for my own project) the basic step on pep: Scaling. :facepalm
Recently a lot of posting regarding scaling and how to scale.
I am not gonna cover for that.
My rule of thumb: measure your body, add clearance (depending where or how fit you want to be) and add foam thickness times two.
Print one of the pages that will represent the whole length (or width or height, whichever applicable) and test fit.

can i ask some question?
if you print the pep files as it is will you get a perfectly proportioned armor?

cause i downloaded the files but the parts are not equally scaled

 

[IMIM2]

Hi Maroenli02,
A very broad question.

1. Depending where the source of the files, the original 3d artist normally did 3d files based on his/her measurement or some body template. If your pep files created by single artist, normally the scale are the same. If you have, for example, helmet made by X, chest made by Y, boot by made Z (Z? what a coinsidence), chances are the scale wil be different.

2. Because human body dimension varies, again, you need to scale (or check the scale) EVERY files you want to print. Or at least do test print/test fit as I suggested. Shamefully, I missed this step recently :behave for my own project.

I am not going to cover how to scale or what number should be used. You need to search, a lot of threads out there covering those even videos.

Hope it helps. Happy scaling!

 

[IMIM2]

Tip #11: cleaning excess cut

Sometimes we don't cut the foam by single pas, especially on curve or corner. When the blade do not cut at the same line, you'll get what I called "excess cut". It can be fixed easily by "burning" it.
If it is too "heavy" try to sand it first or use small scissors (I have to spell check that).
Try to run under fire (use small fire source like candle or WOW I don't know that in English-see picture). Apologize for blurring picture, I use Mk8 helmet as tripod and set on timer, but I have to keep the fire moving.
Keep the fire moving, otherwise the foam will melt or catch a fire.
You can sand a little while hot, or press it with your superhero thumb (that means no whining about the pain).
Now you have a cleaner cut.
Do experiment with this technique before try on actual parts. The edge also wil be slighty rounded, which I use this to create "valley" effect on seams.
If you don't like that, use filler to fill the gap.

I'm not sure if this tip is helpful or not, so please try it first on some scrap foam.

 

[maroenli02]

Hi Maroenli02,
A very broad question.

1. Depending where the source of the files, the original 3d artist normally did 3d files based on his/her measurement or some body template. If your pep files created by single artist, normally the scale are the same. If you have, for example, helmet made by X, chest made by Y, boot by made Z (Z? what a coinsidence), chances are the scale wil be different.

2. Because human body dimension varies, again, you need to scale (or check the scale) EVERY files you want to print. Or at least do test print/test fit as I suggested. Shamefully, I missed this step recently :behave for my own project.

I am not going to cover how to scale or what number should be used. You need to search, a lot of threads out there covering those even videos.

Hope it helps. Happy scaling!

thank you for your quick reply, come to think of it the file that i opened are indeed made by different devs' so it does make sense.

i'll keep this in mind.

thank you.

 

[IMIM2]

I apologize to miss these post:

@Doomster: thank you, glad it is helpful for you.

@TKSteve: Maybe this could help for better explanation

(this is from my experience/example I added 1-2cm extra on the helmet width. Most people measure head's width/circumference but forgot the ears. It can be fixed by wearing balaclava though.

I may add proportional factor to it too.

Some people wanted to look bigger/smaller or taller (the shoe is heeled).
I wanted the hand/finger to be much bigger to match the forearm, but I ended up with finger extension (which I am planning to revisit them). If I make it smaller it'll fit my hand perfectly but I'll end up with the suit with small palms. With the current size of the forearm, it is a bit tight for my wirst+gloves. I even have to take out my watch.

Make it too tight will also restrict your movement, heat build up, ruin your undersuit and many more thing could happen. However make it too big also will have other problems.

I guess the key is to anticipate "what could happen and how to overcome that". I can't help you on the scaling number, but I can share my experience on "what could happen/how to anticipate" thing.

So to your question, how do we know proper clearance? There's no exact science there. The first thing that came up to my mind when I thought clearance is access. How do I put on/take out this part. How easy it will be, sliding out is more difficult. My tip here, is to use magic tape on your stockcard to make "dummy" version without ruining your template. Try it on. Think about foam thickness too because it will be subtracted from the actual dummy version. I am cheap, I use regular paper for templates yet can manage to do this (it's a one time template anyway).

Sadly to say, sometimes you have to finish it, wear it, took a picture and realize that your suit is out of proportion. Then, either you deal with it or redo/mod some parts. If you see my thread on my finished IM suit (and please do comment), you'll see my suit is far from perfect. But I know you will having a hard time focusing on my suit, so my suit is fine .

I just wrote on other member, in relation to this.
Sometimes we don't have to build another one, make it smaller or bigger by cutting/adding foam is not a crime.

Hope it helps

 

[Helagak]

@Helagak I tried to put the switch at the back of the wrist and failed.
I used different switches too. I had high hopes for top left one, but it didn't catch my finger movement all the time.
Looking forward to see how your plan turning.
Excuse my English, it is not bubble gum, but chewing gum. Should find it in Asian stores. Well, you don't want to end up chewing aspirin for your foam building do you, or do you?

No worries about the english buddy, your doing fine. no, ive never seen chewing gum come in a plastic bottle. and being in ohio, there arnt many asian stores around :lol
and yes, the hours and hours ive put into my suit already has made me chew plenty of asprin! haha
good tips man. im gonna try that burning ugly cuts tip tonight!

 

[calel15]

@ Freaklord: thanks, I find it quite similar yes. I tried not to use the switch there because it is too small and not thin enough. However since you place it againt hard plastic, it should be okay. My type of switch have bigger and rounded edge, so it is more safe to put against foam, but it my case it will be against my gloves.

@calel 15: you just give me aother idea to make tip#10!!!

@Spider M Mann: I see down arrow next to attachment. My question more specific: how can I attach a picture on the post which is not attachment and not url link (insert image icon goes to url link).
I saw most of the people do inserted images in their post.
Thanks you for finding my tips helpful.

Tip #10 Arc reactor
My arc reactor is cheap, and very very easy to do. I use butter container cap (I blurred the brand). I removed the label. The glue on the label is surprisingly tough to remove. I used goo-gone, citrus-based cleaner, it is still won't come off. I stuck with somewhat blurry and rough surface, more like sandblasted surface.
So I just flipped and use the inner side as the outer side of the arc reactor. It turned out the glue function as diffuser, nice!
As for the body and lighting, I use similar approach as repulsor. The body is made out of foam, the light source is using bigger LED ring.
I wanted to use JFcustom's technique by inserted thin printed paper layer to create "arc" shadows, but I decided not to. I like rounded homogenoius glowing arc.
JFcustom (my Master) created arc reactor from mineral water bottle. Check it out
http://www.therpf.com/f24/foam-speed-building-filesntricks-added-dancin_fools-iron-148889/
If you want $$$ solution, you can order 3-5mm acrylic (white translucent or clear if you want to show off nice arc reactor), do laser cutting for nice precision. The body can be made out of acrylic too. I'd use metal finished sticker to cover it

Thanks for the tip i will try it later

 

[IMIM2]

Tip #12: Use solder

Another lazy day. I just use this from my comment on others thread.
A member of RPF asked on how to draw lines on N7 costume. I suggested to use solder (which I never used it before). I read some people use solder too.
So I did tried it on scrap foam and post the result.
The key is to have the solder hot enough, and scribe it slowly.
I took the picture on different results.
Another member suggested to have steady hand while doing this, so I came up with heat scribber tool.

This thread almost reach 1,000 views with only 12 tips less than a month, YAY!!!!!

 

[IMIM2]

Pics of the tools didn't attach earlier

 

[mark0017]

Gotta say a big thank you to IMIM2 for posting all these tips, i looked at everyone before i started my armour and they have helped me out loads, although i did ignore the golden rule about not making the helmet first:facepalm....yes i learnt the hard way...but who doesn't want to have the helmet on asap right?:lol

Also i have been following Helagak's progress to inspire me, and i have to say for a first time built everything has come out super clean....really looking forward to more updates.

Good luck with all your builds

 

[IMIM2]

Mark0017,
I just commented on your new thread, before I read this.
By making, sharing, asking question on your progress, you are already contributing to the RPF community.

Helagak's thread is particularly a muse to my writing.
He's probably fed up with me.
I need to find another one, and I hope I found one :eek

Don't ended up with stack of helmets like me.

Glad to hear that my tips are helpful.
Let me know if you need some help.

Happy building.

 

[IMIM2]

Tip #12a: The importance of tools

Well, it's a common sense to have a right tool for a right job. Just a reminder that a good tool will help you a lot. It doesn't have to be expensive ones, but a good tool sometimes do not come cheap.

I just want to suggest to have a decent X-acto like knife for cutting (surprisingly, I broke one X-acto knock off knife because I thought I'd safe some money,....NOT). I use regular cutter knife only for cutting from big roll of foam, or somthing really straight and flat.

Cutting pads is also very useful for preserving the sharpness of the blade. I need to buy a bigger cutting pads actually.

A pair of scissors are good to have. I normally do angle cuts using scissors, instead of knife.

Just recently bought a glue gun. If there is a low heat or controllable heat gun, please buy it (thank you Dancin_Fool for the tip). I have a piece of marble as place mat. So if the glue gun drip, it'll not messing my table or anything else. XRobots suggested to cut the long glue stick into short ones. It helps to prevent the glue from dripping. I thanked him for that!
I used two glue gun now, one for applying the glue, the other one without glue stick on, for smearing excess glue or dissambling parts.

A scribber is a must for pepakura builders. In case anybody wondering what a scribber look like, it's on the far right, just above the cutting pad.
That particular scribber is about 30 years old, really....not kidding.

I have a plastic bag for trash can, located on top of my table too. I made a big mess when I work. So every so often, I took a break, put aside my tools and parts aside, and swoop all the mess into the bag.
It also function as my "scrap resources". I normally use quite big of a bag and didn't throw anything out until the project is done. Later, I have two bags: one for "might be useful crap" the other is for "absolutely crap".
It is important to have a clean work area (trust me, even though I admit, I am a messy guy). So, I put plastic bag as a tool too.

I may overdo my tools, but it is just for emphasizing on how important it is to have a good tool (and showing off too :cool).

Having a good tool will make your life easier.
Anyone want to add? Got a unique tools? Share experience? Please welcome to join. It's kinda dry in here.......


PS: when I saw this thread hit more 1,000 views, this is how I felt:

 

[BobbyS95]

PS: when I saw this thread hit more 1,000 views, this is how I felt:

Lol. I normally feel like this:

 

[IMIM2]

Tip #14: P's in Pepakura

Pepakura hobby (paper or foam) requires basic mentalities:
- P for Patience. Really, if you don't have patience, do not do this
- P for Practice. Practice makes perfect
- P for Pain. Must endure the pain and suffer, all the sacrifices made, for a single purpose: superhero or supervillain
- P for Progress. Stupidity is doing same thing and expect different results. If you do not show progress, then stop and review.
- P for Peace. Find balance, inner peace. Focus on what you do and will do (that sounds like Master Shifu).
- P for Positivity. The law of attraction applies everywhere, including here. You do it well, feel good, you do better next.

Have the right mentality, do your hobby right.

 

[IMIM2]

To complete tip #8 with picture, I made two helmets with two different lighting setup. Apologize for taking too long to come up with this picture.

One on the left is using indirect light, visibility is good, but it is not as bright as direct setup. It is using a mesh, so at close distance, the holes can be seen.