Tips from Newbie to Newbies (on foam build - for now)

[TryChick]

Awesome tutorials IMIM2, I'm always reading this even if I've read it before.

By the way, can you help me with the PWMF sticker, I'm about to do the eyes now, I know I'm going to have a hard time finding a bridal's veil (Xrobot's technique) so I opted with yours. Anyway, my question, what does PWMF stand for? When I google it, all I see is Playing with My Food. And can you actually see through that sticker, like a one way mirror or the "black colored" parts are holes on the sticker?

Thanks man!


Edit:
Hey, by the way, is this similar to a perforated sticker? You know, the one they stick on to rear windows of cars? Thanks again!

It is like the car window stickers. I went to a local sign shop and asked for the stickers with the holes you can see through (they looked at me funny when i asked for PWMF sticker and I didn't know what else to call it either) and they knew what I was talking about. They gave me a pretty large scrap piece for free. When I put it on my acrylic lenses I found I could see fine until I went into a dark room--then I couldn't see squat. I ended up sanding both sides of my acrylic pieces with 1000 grit sandpaper to "frost" them and mounted them with a gap at the bottom like a ton of other folks have done. The sanding really diffuses the light evenly all throughout the lens too.

 

[IMIM2]

@kyxz2
PWMF stands for perforated window marking film. It's about time somebody asking me this.
Yes it is the sticker with holes on it, but make sure it is white on the front and black at the back (with adhesive). Normally is 50-50. Now I got my new film, it is 70-30 (30% holes, so more white showing).

@TryChick:
I am not sure why you can't see in darker ambience, it works like a pinhole glasses, so it help to focus on the eye too (if you wear glasses less than -4.00, you can see it a bit clearer without eyeglasses, and thru this).

The problem I had is glare/reflection of the lenses below PWMF. So what I did is to place one layer of sandblasted/frosted film on top-half of the lens (because my LED was placed only at the top). It was a sticker, so no need to sand it off, easier that way . The vision is more limited, but the eyes is without annoying reflection of the LED. It's not permanent, so it can be removed if you need better visibility. I tried to take a picture, but it just won't show up in the picture.


Thank you for finding these tips are helful to you.

 

[TryChick]

@kyxz2

@TryChick:
I am not sure why you can't see in darker ambience, it works like a pinhole glasses, so it help to focus on the eye too (if you wear glasses less than -4.00, you can see it a bit clearer without eyeglasses, and thru this).

The problem I had is glare/reflection of the lenses below PWMF. So what I did is to place one layer of sandblasted/frosted film on top-half of the lens (because my LED was placed only at the top). It was a sticker, so no need to sand it off, easier that way . The vision is more limited, but the eyes is without annoying reflection of the LED. It's not permanent, so it can be removed if you need better visibility. I tried to take a picture, but it just won't show up in the picture.


Thank you for finding these tips are helful to you.

Hm, I wonder if the fact that my LEDs are glued directly to the top of my acrylic lenses and are shining through the acrylic is the issue? Looking at your direct/indirect light example, it looks like your LEDs aren't actually shining through the lens, but on the front of it... This is how I did mine.

 

[IMIM2]

I made a quick illustration on my setup.
Because it is indirect, the light is actually bounced/reflected. Or some people use the term "front-lit".
And yes, the LED do not light the clear sheet, it is unnecessary cause the sheet won't lit (unless you give groove or in your case sand it)

 

[IMIM2]

@TryChick:
I just saw your WIP thread, the picture there is clearer.
Yup, what you did is called "ghosting" where you try to "lit" the clear lens by scribing lines. The light will travel along the grooves, hence the area is lit. The problem with that, well, you already figure it out, you need the outside brighter than the inside.

Instead of sanding it, it might be helpful to put two horizontal strips of black vinyl electrical tape
with a small gap in the middle. The tape will block the light, where the middle gap is for you to see. It's like where I put the sandblast film (but top and bottom), and the gap is about 0.5-1mm only.

 

[kyxz2]

I made a quick illustration on my setup.
Because it is indirect, the light is actually bounced/reflected. Or some people use the term "front-lit".
And yes, the LED do not light the clear sheet, it is unnecessary cause the sheet won't lit (unless you give groove or in your case sand it)

Thank you for this IMIM2, problem with the LEDs I bought was it's not prewired. I can't find any pre wired LEDs locally.

 

[IMIM2]

Just tell me how many LED you need to install per eyes, what kind of battery do you use, if you have the pics of the LED and the battery would be helpful too. You probably need to buy resistor, on/off switch (optional), pressure switch or magnet if you want to have auto on/off.

I will help you calculate and draw the schematic.

Good enough?

 

[kyxz2]

Hey IMIM2, thanks, i'll try to update the pics later.

 

[noobone14]

hi can somebody giveme a free file of iron mark 8 po. im dying to do one

 

[IMIM2]

You're posting in wrong thread, my friend.
This thread was intended to share tips and tricks, Q&A if you're stuck on build related matter.

And your your info:
1. Do using search tool before asking something.
2. There is no free Mk8 at the moment, in fact, there is no finished Mk8 in pdo at the moment.
3. Don't die yet :lol

 

[kyxz2]

Hi IMIM2, I wasn't able to take a picture of the LED's that I have but it looks exactly the same as this pic:

I was able to find some touch light that I can use for the repulsor, I guess I can use the LEDs for the eyes.

The LEDs are wired, but not insulated.

 

[IMIM2]

Your note is a bit contradicting. This LED type known as DIP LED normally runs on 3V DC. If you said the LED already has wire in it, it might be pre-wired LED (already attached a resistor). In this case a pre-wired LED normally runs on 12V DC. You need to check first which one is it.
You mentioned earlier that you can't have access to pre-wired LED.

So when you mentioned that the LED are wired but not insulated, I don't know what it meant. Just take a picture of it, I don't care how crappy it look.

 

[kyxz2]

Hi IMIM2, sorry for the confusion, I guess they are not prewired since the lady told me I also need some resistors for this. I thought pre wired means it has a wire connected to it. My bad.

Anyway, here is the pic of the LED

Really crappy pics there.

 

[IMIM2]

Okay, with the additional info, I tried to draw the schematics.

The first one would be very simple, 3 LEDs on the top, 3 LEDs on the bottom. Check if all LED lights in equal bright.

The second alternative will give more stable brightness per LED, but a bit troublesome to build. However since you choose direct, it shouldn't be too much trouble.

I would suggest to add trimpot 50 or 100 ohm, next to switch,so you can adjust the brightness of the eyes.

Note for myself:
1. Typical 5mm DIP LED voltage is 3-3.5V
2. Typical current 20mA

 

[kyxz2]

Okay, with the additional info, I tried to draw the schematics.

The first one would be very simple, 3 LEDs on the top, 3 LEDs on the bottom. Check if all LED lights in equal bright.

The second alternative will give more stable brightness per LED, but a bit troublesome to build. However since you choose direct, it shouldn't be too much trouble.

I would suggest to add trimpot 50 or 100 ohm, next to switch,so you can adjust the brightness of the eyes.

Note for myself:
1. Typical 5mm DIP LED voltage is 3-3.5V
2. Typical current 20mA

This is great! Thank you for this, I just need a PCB to solder the LEDs to.
Trimpots are potentiometers right?

 

[IMIM2]

No need PCB, just solder the "leg" of LEDs.
Yes, trimpot is a small version of potentiometer.
Good luck!

 

[kyxz2]

Oh, yeah, I just realized that they will be fixed inside the eyes. Thanks again!

 

[IMIM2]

Tip #25 PVC mannequin

This is not my idea, but since I just made it, I thought it's worth sharing it (thank you Helagak, you are still my muse on this).
I give credit to Stealth on this, hope I 'll make duct tape dummy someday.

I use 1in PVC pipe, it took me 5 meter for everything, 10 pcs of T joints, 4 pieces of L joints and 2 end caps.

So I made sketches to determine how many joints I need.

First was to cut my foot length from waist-down
Body/torso is from shoulder to waist, added 8 cm for the bend.
I ended making the dummy too tall, I I cut a bit off.
The torso pipe need to be bend, I don't know how to bent it nice, so I just heat it and bend to shape.
Arm is measured same as my arm,shoulder to palm.
I cut the head pipe too short, but the T helps (I didn't push it).

I decided to use T on shoulder so I can hang the arm ( I made a hanging strip using web). I am using L on the end of the arm instead of end cap, so the palm can be "hooked" sideways. I use T on head with some pipe extension to better hold the helmet.

I "buldge" the torso by inserting a cardboard. It helps to steady the upper torso.

Why mannequin is important?
1. It display your hard work in a very nice way
2. It helps to keep the foam in shape (foam can get deformed overtime under "wrong" storage position.
3. Ii helps giving perspective during building.

My old mannequin was made from scrap wood, and cardboard and it still works okay, except it was quite heavy and troublesome on joining the foot (requires screwdriver),but it was totally almost no cost.

If you want to make the hand pose, it'll shift the center of gravity. Foot need to be filled with sand, and the torso need to be shift back a bit.

 

[stanozol21]

its freaking awesome dude.. thanks for sharing

 

[Helagak]

I built my own pvc dummy. Thanks for the idea!